Category Archives: Food

The arid landscape as viewed from the train from Madrid to Toledo, Spain is flat and uninteresting. But as one approaches the UNESCO Heritage City the brown turns to green as the Tagus River nourishes the dry valley into a fertile vista. The glimmering water meanders around the hillside peak that is crowned with the fortress town of Toledo. The striking view is straight out of an El Greco painting. And that’s just the beginning. As I disembarked from the train I was enchanted by the beauty of the delicate arabesque shapes of the Neo-Mudéjar architecture that adorns the station and reflects the Arabic influence that has informed the Andalusian region. Then it got even better. The road into Toledo leads one back into time as the protective outside walls flank the thoroughfare higher into the imperial city that has been described as being “suspended between heaven and earth.” One can imagine the long ago first time visitor who like me had travelled this majestic route with the same wonderment this religious city evokes. The vertical spires of the Alcázar and the Toledo Cathedral with its soaring tower grace the skyline and dramatically lord over the red tiled roofs of the arched stone dwellings below. This enchanting vision had me whispering “Holy Toledo.”

The cobbled stoned streets wound into narrow alleys as we delved deeper into the enclosed settlement. Our apartment was located within the walls of the old city in a building dating from the sixteenth century. We had booked our accommodations through Airbnb and we were pleased with our choice. Resting shortly after our arrival through the window came the sounds of children playing on the street. The excited chatter of their Middle Eastern dialect and exotic music flowed into the room and it was magical. As I sat in the ancient building with its high beamed ceilings and original stone walls it was easy to imagine how this neighborhood must have been like at the height of its splendor as a melting pot of cultures living together, speaking different languages, and practicing distinct religions. Toledo had been an important cultural and religious center for the Jewish, Christian, and Muslim communities during medieval times and they had coexisted practicing tolerance while maintaining peace and prosperity despite the challenges that multiculturalism had posed to regional stability. What a concept.

A sense of timelessness pervades the medieval thoroughfares as one wanders under Moorish arches and ancient buildings embellished with Jewish stars and Arabic script as the distant bells beckon the faithful to service. The black and white habits of the nuns and cassocked priests are a common sight but with a nod to modernity as backpacks accessorize their traditional clothing. The roads eventually lead to one of the most beautiful churches that I have visited, the Primate Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo. This crowning glory of Toledo has been described as the “the magnum opus” of 13th century Spanish Gothic Cathedrals and it is simply stunning. I was struck by its soaring vaulted ceilings and its dazzling gilded surfaces. The amount of bling in this cathedral is staggering. The famous main alter piece is majestic and enthralls the viewer with its golden depiction of the life of Christ as he ascended to the heavens. The site had originally been a Visigothic church but after the Muslim conquest a mosque was erected in its place. After the reconquest the mosque was replaced with today’s cathedral blending some Moorish elements with the Gothic architecture and together they culminated in this Spanish masterpiece.

http://www.sacred-destinations.com/spain/toledo-cathedral

Toledo for many is a sacred destination that nourishes the soul but visitor be warned, it can be hazardous to your health. I recently suffered from disk problems and had finally achieved some measure of progress and to ease my tired back chose to take the trolley tour to view the city. Bad choice. As soon as we left the main town square the smooth asphalt pavement ended and the bumpy medieval cobblestone streets began. And evil they were. The trolly was essentially a metal box on wheels with no shock absorbers and the uneven surface jammed my lower vertebrae. I instantly felt my error and steadied myself in a standing position to absorb the impact with my legs as the trolly trundled on. My husband quickly hit the stop button but to no avail, the button had been disabled. We then tried to gain the attention of the driver but that too failed. So to avoid further injury when the trolley slowed we leaped off the demon vehicle and it continued on lurching up the hill minus two rattled passengers. So travelers be wary of wheel barrows disguised as Toledo trolleys.

After our harrowing ride we strolled the streets filled with numerous shops carrying a vast array of the famed Toledo swords and other themed products of the region such as marzipan rendered into El Greco paintings. We stopped for a short break at a quaint cafe and tried the warm churros that are normally not to my taste but I found surprisingly good. Revived we continued our tour that took us to the El Transito Synagogue in the old Jewish neighborhood. In earlier times there had been a thriving Jewish community here before the Catholic monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella had expelled the Jews in 1492 thus ending the country’s policy of religious tolerance. The Synagogue is now a museum that offers a glimpse into the Iberian Jewish Golden Age and was wonderfully restored showcasing Mozarab motifs and Hebrew inscriptions and and we came away with an appreciation for the beauty of the earlier Jewish culture.

http://www.sacred-destinations.com/spain/toledo-sinagoga-del-transito

After our morning’s excursion into the past we set our minds to contemplating the present lunch time. And our thoughts turned to yummy Iberian pork. Fortunately we happened upon an enticing facade that housed the Alfileritos 24 restaurant. And happening it was. The trendy restaurant has a lovely atrium that houses several restaurants and exudes a cool and friendly vibe. We spent an enjoyable lunch munching away on some local fare including the must have pork and various mouth watering tapas and of course sparkling Cava. What a tasty Toledo treat!

http://www.alfileritos24.com

We finished our day’s meanderings with a visit to the Church of Santo Tomé to view El Greco’s renowned painting The Burial of the Conde de Orgaz. The work is captivating and relays the legend of the deceased who had bequeathed funds to the church and was reputed to be so pious and charitable that the saints descended from heaven to bury him. The painting is important historically as well as it immortalized the nobles and other notable men of Toledo thus offering us a who’s who into the society of the time and demonstrated El Greco’s talent as a great European portrait painter.

http://www.sacred-destinations.com/spain/toledo-santo-tome

The timing of our trip could not have been better. The weather during the month of October was pleasantly warm plus there were no crowds. And as usual our time in Toledo went by too fast but nevertheless it was fascinating delving into an era of Spanish history where religious tolerance, although not perfect, had been realized. An interesting country with a fascinating history. Viva España!

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The Spanish foot is on the small side. I found this out recently as I strolled the streets of Madrid admiring the plethora of beautifully hand crafted shoes in every style, color, and quality. Zapaterias seem to line every city block displaying a vast selection of trendy foot coverings. But ONLY up to size 38. If you have a larger foot, forget it. I don’t know how many shoe shops I canvassed on a recent trip to this historic city as I “sole” searched to find the perfect leather zapatas. To my disappointment the shoes didn’t fit and I couldn’t wear them, so my pursuit of finding a women’s size ten proved elusive.  Unfortunately for me the Spanish ladies have Lilliputian feet to match their smaller stature so I gave into the inevitable and instead satiated my desire for fine leather goods, or as the sales woman described it “buull” leather, and bought an elegant purse with matching wallet. So my footwear odyssey came to a fitting end. Thus my attention turned to much more important matters: the quest for authentic Spanish cuisine and libations.

The human stomach goes through an interesting transformation when one sets foot on Spanish soil. Normally when we are full we stop eating. But in Spain this does not occur. The food is so enticing that even the person who professes they can’t have one more bite once they eye more tasty tidbits ignore their bodies’ protestations and succumb to the alluring temptations of the Spanish kitchen. So what does an entrepreneur, an importer, a scientist, a gardner, a programmer, and a teacher do in in Madrid? Why eat of course. My husband and I had met up with four long time friends from California and our eclectic group armed with insatiable appetites set out to experience some down home cooking Madrid style. I had read a review in the New York Times lauding a small eatery where chefs, food writers, restaurant owners and vintners go to eat while in Madrid and its offbeat description of fat sardines “swimming in concentric circles of tomato concasse…’ certainly caught my eye. So off we went in search of concentric sardines. And what a find it was. We spent an enjoyable evening (and the following days lunch as well) in fine company happily tasting our way through the menu at the restaurant Asturianos. We relinquished our food and wine choices to the knowledgeable and charismatic restaurant host and owner Alberto whose mother Doña Julia began the establishment back in 1966 and today is still the chef. Out of her kitchen comes pure pleasure disguised as food. We devoured the most wonderful dishes such as the lip smacking sardines doused in olive oil, meaty cockles, flaky cod, garlicky black mushrooms, traditional fabada beef stew with fava beans, and all was served with crusty bread for loping up the tasty sauces from our plates. Accompanying our selections we drank the restaurant’s own 2012 Malposo Crianza that added a lively Syrah note to our savory fare. Our dessert was described as flan but its rich creaminess was similar to a cheesecake and topped with carmel sauce. At the close of our evening meal our appreciative group gave Doña Maria a well deserved round of applause for her muy sabroso culinary talents. A tasteful end to a delicious evening.
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/10/14/travel/where-madrid-chefs-go-for-real-spanish-food.html

Madrid is great for walking. Using the good foot and public transportation we toured the emblematic sights that Madrid had to offer. The highlights for me were the Madrid Cathedral and the Prado Museum. The Madrid Catedral de Santa Maria la Real de la Almudena is relatively new with construction that began when the capital was transferred from Toledo to Madrid in 1879. The building was interrupted by the Spanish Civil War and was only completed in 1993. The Gothic Revival structure is quite impressive at 104 m long and 76 m wide with the dome diameter measuring at 20m. The Neo-Gothic interior is an interesting mixture of modern and historic elements. The vibrant interior is adorned with stained glass windows, a massive golden altar, and its colorfully embellished ceiling, domes, frescoes, and paintings are quite impressive.Some of the art is a bit unusual such as the oil painting Obra Misionera de Jesũs y Maria of the beautified Mother M. Pilar Izquierdo of the Sisters of the Order of Diocesan Right. The spatial perspective of her read as if she were hovering in space and conjured up images of the TV series The Flying Nun. An interesting piece.
http://www.catedraldelaalmudena.es

When in Madrid one has to make the requisite pilgrimage to the Prado Museum. And it is magnificent. For me it was a highlight of our tour. The history of Spain is represented within its Neo-classical walls. It would be easy to be intimidated by the sheer size of the collection but if one narrows their scope it can be manageable and a pleasurable experience. I chose to focus mainly on the Spanish artists and spent an enjoyable morning immersed in the glories and ignoble past of the Reino de España. The collection boasts famous European artists such as Titian and Rubens and holds the worlds most extensive collection of Spanish art including the iconic Las Meninas by Velãquez and Goya’s The 3rd of May 1808,  as well as the adopted Greek El Greco’s two Maja works. But for me the most compelling yet repelling was the 1503 triptych The Garden of Earthy Delights by Hieronymus Bosch. Creeeepy. The Dutchman’s esoteric painting gave me a big case of the heebie-jeebies but nevertheless I was mesmerized by Bosch’s bizarre interpretation of the dire consequences of amoral earthly behavior. It’s enough to scare any wayward Christian straight. It is one of the most unique pieces of art and is deserving the accolades that have afforded this masterpiece of the imagination. You’ve simply got to see it to believe it.

Throughout the city the wealth of yesterday’s Imperial Spain is apparent in the monumental architecture such as the grandeur of the Palacio Real de Madrid that graces the city center. But today’s Spain is grappling with its economy, immigration, and tabloid royal scandals, so it’s easy to forget that they were once a dominant global player. But for me whose tribe hails from the American Southwest where the Spanish colonial past has left significant cultural consequences for the region, it doesn’t seem so far removed.  Spain has had a complex history and they’ve been ruled by Iberians, Visigoths, Vandals, Moors, Romans, Habsburgs, Bourbons, and Fascists and their long story is filled with conquest, reconquest, and colonialism that has reverberated around the world. One would need a lifetime to explore the many facets of the country but as usual our journey was not long enough. This visit was special for us reconnecting with good friends and exploring an important European capital and I look forward to my next visit. But on to our next stop: Holy Toledo. Viva España!

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