Category Archives: Vorarlberg

Thrilling Turandot, Bregenzer Festspiele, Austria, 8-2016

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Turandot stageThe summer storm threatened to fall all day. As the evening came the skies lightened and we were graced with a brilliant sunset splashed across Lake Constance. Franz and I were thrilled because we had tickets to the Bregenzer Festspiele in our city of Bregenz, Austria. This years lavish opera was Giacomo Puccini’s Turandot. The story set in China is of the Princess Turandot who had enthralled many princely suitors. To win her hand they had to solve three riddles but if failed they were beheaded. The Prince Calaf falls for the Princess and solves the riddles but she refuses him. He then offers that if she can find out his name by morning he will die but if not she will his betrothed. The dramatic narrative combined with the light rain only added to the flowing beauty of the vocal performances and the Viennese Symphonic Orchestra who played to perfection on the floating stage.Turandot sceneThe opera performers were spectacular and the highlight of the evening, the aria Nessum dormas was met with much applause. The stage setting and lighting with the backdrop of the great wall of China complete with oversized terra cotta soldiers and Chinese lanterns adorning the moving platform was breathtaking. The costume design was lavish as well as were all aspects of the production from the fire jugglers and martial artists to the stellar acrobatics and dragons. What a wonderful operatic evening we had. I can’t wait until next year’s staging of Georges Bizet’s Carmen.

https://bregenzerfestspiele.com/en

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The Sounds Of Summer, Schetteregg, Austria, 5-2016

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The hills were alive once again with the sounds of buzzing bees, clanging cows, and running water. Wild alpine flowers were bursting with color and the fragrant scent mingled with the earthy cow paddies as Franz and I made our way up the Schetteregg mountain in the nearby Bregenzerwald. The summertime hiking season had begun. This day we explored the trails of the Schetteregg mountain that also has a cozy ski area in the winter. Our path was an easy hike and there was still snow in the higher elevations and we detected on the mountain side  a small avalanche that had recently happened. As we descended we were drawn to a small mountain hut with brass band tunes that had wafted down our path and came upon a group of young men celebrating a bachelor party complete with barbecue, traditional Austrian attire and music. What a great idea. We enjoyed a lunch of alpine cheese, hearty bread, and song.  It was just another happy day in the mountains.

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The Bregenz Fasching Parade, Austria, 2-2016

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Ore! Ore! cries filled the air of the 2016 Bregenz Fasching Parade that hailed the end of the abundance and gluttony of Carnival season. The weeks highlights began with “Fat Thursday” followed by the Sunday parade with drill teams, brass bands, costumed people, and decorated vehicles of all kinds. The grand finale took place on Rose Monday and the inner city was alive with activity before Ash Wednesday that marked the official end of revelry and Lent began the time of fasting and reflection until Easter Sunday. Fasching season went fast and until next year Ore Ore!


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Pagan Party in Bregenz, Austria, 11-2015

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Ore Ore!  It’s the 11th month, the 11th day, and 11:11 and the Bregenz market place is alive with the sounds of a brass and a Guggamusik band, a costumed drill team, and high spirited participants are dressed in a variety of colorful costumes. The occasion is the official beginning of the yearly Fasching or Carnival season when the mayor of the city symbolically hands over the keys of the city to the newly elected “Prince of Fasching” and speeches are made by local politicos associated with the Carnival activities that will last through Shrove Tuesday. Many celebrations take place during this “fifth season” whose roots hail back to pagan times and is observed with festivities such as lavish parties and masquerade balls. The greatest revelry takes place during Carnival week beginning with “Fat Thursday” followed by the city parade that happens on Carnival Sunday. The grand finale takes place on Rose Monday when the inner city parties the day away before Ash Wednesday marks the end of the season and Lent commences the time for fasting and reflection. But until then it’s a time to make merry, eat sweet Krapfen cakes, and drink hot spiced Glühwein. Ore Ore!


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The Kool Körbersee, Bregenzerwald, Austria, 7-2015

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This summer records throughout Europe hit all time highs. Here in Austria we had the second hottest July ever recorded. Franz and I needed a respite from the sweltering heat by the Bodensee and headed up to the mountains for some high alpine relief. Although it was still warm the temperature did recede and was quite pleasant. Our destination was the Körbersee in the Bregenzerwald. The lovely sound of cow bells clanging in the distance greeted us as we made our way to the cozy Berghotel Körbersee. It’s located on the cool shores of the small lake of the same name. From our room we had a commanding view of the water and the vertical mountain peaks. We had a wonderful time wading in the lake’s refreshing waters and hiking the numerous trails. The meadows were abundant with blooming flowers, busy bees, and tranquil herds of grazing cows. What a relaxing weekend enjoying the fresh air and mountain life. We’ll definitely be back in winter.

http://www.koerbersee.at

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The Sparkling Samina, Austria, 5-2015

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Mountains, cascading waterfalls, and the fresh green of spring greeted us as we strolled up the path along the Samina River thoroughly enjoying the alpine spring. Austria is a hikers paradise and almost every week when the weather warms up Franz and I are off exploring the numerous valleys of our region and finding treasures that we had not found the previous year. This past weekend we sought out a hike along the Saminabach a fast flowing river that runs down the Samina Valley that straddles the border to Liechtenstein. The river is around 17 km long and it meets up on the valley floor with the Ill River. My skinny legs look forward to a summer filled with leisurely treks. Happy trails to you!

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Autumn Mood on the Rhine Delta, Austria, 9-2014

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It was the first day of autumn and my favorite time of year. I love the autumn foliage, migrating birds, the harvest, the wine festivals, and the coming truffle season. So in celebration of the first day of the fall season we took a leisurely stroll on the Rhine Delta where it spills out into Lake Constance to take in the migrating birds and the wild grasses. Lake Constance is shared by three countries, Austria, Germany, and Switzerland with the alps as a dramatic backdrop. It’s such a lovely time in our town nestled against the Pfänder mountain when the trees are just beginning to turn vibrant colors before the long winter months. It’s a time of plenty with the harvests in and the bounty of the summer months displayed in full splendor at the local markets filled with squash and pumpkins of all shapes, sizes and varieties. It’s also time for the Austrian Schlachtpartie when the local restaurants offer up a hearty faire of meat varieties such as deer and wild pig dishes served up with dumplings, vegetables and pumpkin soups.

The lake was quiet after the bustle of the summer months and the Bregenzer Festspiele Opera  and the tourists had gone home. The sailboaters have begun pulling their boats from the water and stored them for the winter and the last of the rowers made the best of the waning season’s weather. There is a lull before ski season begins so the city enjoys a quiet time during the autumn months. The lake fosters a wide variety of wildlife including 35 species of fish and 412 different species of birds as well as small game such as squirrels, rabbits, and deer. This time of year is a wonderful to view the migrating birds such as ducks, geese, loons, and the occasional stork as well as its permanent residents such as hawks, ducks, swans. The entire lake shore length is 273 kilometers, with 28 km of them in Austria. The lake is an essential drinking water source for the three countries as well as for the unique flora and fauna that rely upon a healthy lake ecosystem. So as the last strong rays of the autumn sun shone we enjoyed a quiet walk along the life giving shores of our lake.

http://www.bregenz.travel/en/vacation-in-bregenz/sights/nature/pfaender/

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The Big Cheese Day, Schwarzenberg, Austria, 9-2014

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Excitement was in the air as the judges and crowds gathered in the main auditorium in the Bregenzerwald alpine town of Schwarzenberg for the 2014 cheese awards ceremony. Who will be the “Big Cheeses” of the year? This much anticipated judging of the year’s best cheeses that the Bregenzerwald region has to offer are awarded top honors and this means top dollars for the world renowned cheese makers of the region. It is a festival atmosphere in the tiny fairytale town with the local vendors offering up not only cheese but other craft related products such as home made jams and marmelade, home spun loden, and other seasonal offerings.

It was a perfect Indian summer day in September and this Native American was off to taste and buy some of the best cheeses of the year. The previous week the flower laden cows had been brought down from the high Alpe where the cows have pastured during the summer months and the cheese had been made in the Alm huts. Before the first snows the cows decorated with flower wreaths and their handlers decked out in their traditional clothing bring the herds down into the valleys for the winter. They are welcomed back to great fanfare and paraded through the town as the locals and tourists applaud their milky contributions that make the famous cheese possible.

There were 312 cheeses selected representing some of the best cheese makers in the region. The local cheese that’s produced in this area is well known for its high quality and standards that are upheld in their regional techniques. Every summer in the 90 dairy alps the cheese makers collectively hand make 200 tons of cheese. The milk is silofree which means that the cows only eat grass and herbs from the alpine pastures during the summer and through the winter they eat air dried valley hay. This unique three stage farming method in 2011 merited the Bregenzerwald the honor of being inscribed in the Austrian National UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Overall the Bregenzerwald has 17 dairies producing approximately 3,000 tons of alpine cheese.  Many awards were given with two gold awards going to the Alpenkäse Bregenzerwald for their Sennerkäse jung (young dairy farm cheese)and their mild Bergkäse (mild mountain cheese aged less than 6 months). They also received a silver award for their Rahmkäse (creamy cheese), and two bronzes for their 6 month aged Wälderkäse (regional cheese), and their Bergkäse würzig (mountain cheese). Many more medals were awarded and it was a great day to celebrate the cheesy delights while lauding the historical knowledge that culminated in today’s techniques employed that date back to the 19th century when it had been in demand by the monarchy and cheese lovers aboard. And today it still is in demand by gourmands throughout the world. A noble calling for its humble beginnings.

http://www.bregenzerwald.at/w/en/bregenzerwald-culinary-delights-region

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