Strolling along the River Douro on a balmy September evening one could almost inhale the feeling of Porto, Portugal. The royal blue sky framed the darkened slopes that met at the water’s edge. The star of the scene was the silhouette of the Dom Luis Bridge with its sparkling lights glimmering off the midnight blue water. This moment in time could not have gotten any better. Then it did. Because the real star, or satellite, of the show made its dramatic entrance. The gleaming full moon in all its lunar glory rose over the architecture and illuminated the landscape below. One could not helped being enthralled by the magnificence of the heavens as man has been since the beginning of time. This is the image of Porto that I have perched so elegantly on the banks of the Douro.
The evening began as stellar as it had ended. We started out on a dinner quest by hailing a river taxi to the opposite bank in the Afurada neighborhood that just oozed Portguese authenticity. Children played in the streets while the old people watched from the sidewalks and friends called out greetings to each other making for a vibrant street life. We found our restaurant destination the Casa do FC Porto na Afurada that came highly recommended by our host. The eatery is a local’s spot and known for serving up some of the best grilled fish and it’s also the choice for the avid soccer club fans of FC Porto. And do these fans eat well. The fresh seafood was prepared on the barbecue right in front of the restaurant and the combination of the old Porto vibe and succulent food made for a most memorable meal. https://www.facebook.com/Casa-Fcporto-Dragoes-Da-Afurada-333141153503209/?rf=213989482092479
The influence that the Catholic church had and still does is quite apparent throughout the city. Within the historic center the must see sights abound such as the the Sào Francisco Church (1383) with its striking Gothic architecture and its dramatic Baroque interior. Other religious sites we took in were the soaring 75 meter Clèrigos Tower that’s hard to miss on the skyline. And situated on the opposite bank in Gaia perches the 16th century Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar whose church and cloisters display a circular columned design that is unique in Portugal. We also took a tour which offered us insight not only into the monastery as a religious institution but to its defensive importance due to its geographic situation that was and still is used by the military. http://www.localporto.com/gothic-st-francis-church-porto http://www.porto-tourism.com/porto-attractions/historical-monuments-and-edifices-in-porto/clerigos-tower.html www.visitportugal.com/en/content/mosteiro-da-serra-do-pilar
The nature of the city is expressed in its humble fishing and working boats that possess great character despite their peeling paint and are moored by frayed lines strewn with brown kelp along the river estuary. The worn watercraft lean beached among the algae rocks and lobster cages when the tidal action lays bare the debris from the working harbor. And the pungent air reeks of decaying fish and the natural smells of the ocean. Birds of all kinds forage in the shallow waters where it flows out to the Atlantic Ocean . The aging fleet is as colorful as the people who work at the water’s edge whose lives revolve around the harvesting of the oceans bounty and the transportation of the all important Port wine. The most recognizable of the watercraft is the traditional Portuguese wooden Rabelo boat. This elegant yet durable boat was used for centuries to transport people and goods along the Duoro River. But by far its most precious cargo was the product of what this city was named for its delicious Port wine.
The half moon shone radiant against the sapphire sky as the morning sun lit the sandstone peaks across the valley. As I paused to take in the rugged grandeur of the Seradina Bedolina Municipal Archaeological Park and wondered how many sunrises have these mountains seen and by whom? Questions such as these is what lured Franz and I to this ancient site in Capo di Ponte, Italy. The Camonica Valley holds more than 150 engraved rocks with inscriptions and a thousand figures that depict the long ago dwellers in their daily and religious life as well as in more aggressive activities such as in hunting and fighting. The engravings span from the Late Prehistoric through the Roman Age with the majority dating from the Iron Age. The most famous engravings include the “Rock of the Map” and the symbol of Lombardia, the Rosa Camuna.
The petroglyphs are found on the western side of the valley and the conditions created from the sunny mountainside allows for an interesting combination of succulents and cacti along with a variety of alpine flowers set among the low growing evergreens. We were amazed at the access of the park that was unregulated with limited signage warnings but for the most part visitors were free to roam the park at will. We even came upon a group camping site with children running about despite it being set among the ancient petroglyphs.
To gain a more in depth knowledge of the area we ventured to the commune of Capo di Ponti where the Camonica Valley National Museum of Prehistory is located. The museum was well worth the time and included an extensive collection of engraved steles and menhirs along with informative and interactive exhibitions that are a treasure trove for history buffs like me. Each floor focused on a theme ranging from the sacred and religious sites to material culture offering the viewer a greater understanding of the region’s earlier inhabitants and a fascinating look into their past.
Strolling up the thoroughfare into the old town center of Bienno, Italy my eye was caught by a stately house whose gate was slightly ajar and I could glimpse the garden that lay beyond. My curiosity got the best of me and I just had to have a peek. Inside revealed a lovely courtyard with manicured lawn and hedges. As I admired the setting an older gentlemen greeted me and I excused myself for being a “looky loo” explaining that I had been enticed by the beauty of his home. He was gracious and invited me in and gave me a tour of his garden and patio. Workers were busy readying the premises for a family party the next day. And what event it was going to be. Inside the patio he had an automated spit to roast an entire pig with enough seating and settings for a small army. He told me the following day his large family was coming to visit for the beginning of the arts and culture festival the Mostra Mercado that is held every August and is the highlight of their summer season.
The friendly conversation with the local gentleman was our introduction to Bienno and this hospitality continued as Franz and I wandered the ancient walkways of what has been voted “One of Italy’s most beautiful cities.” We took in the fine ironwork and colorful facades and found the shop owners welcoming and their products were not of the typical variety found in many tourist towns. One such establishment was a traditional leather maker who not only fashioned custom shoes but created scabbard sheaths for swords. Another fascinating building was the Forge Workshop whose facade displayed the artistic work that this “iron born” town had been known for in supplying tools and weaponry. Overlooking the village is a fifteenth century water mill that is still in use and was manned by an elderly couple that sell the freshly ground products. Bienno brought back to life its proud past and is a testament to its amiable people and their creative craftwork all nestled into the fairytale mountain valley.
The turquoise sky was cloudless and the temperature was climbing as Franz and I made our way into the forest canopy in the Camonica Valley near Brescia, Italy. The coolness of the air beneath the trees combined with the early morning solitude lent a feeling that we were stepping back into time. And we were for these mountains had been formed during the Ice Age when glaciers cut out the deep valleys and polished the gray sandstone. It was upon these rocks that the early valley dwellers pecked away at the hard stone to leave their markings on the surfaces. Over time they left an extraordinary prehistoric record that we had come to see as we made our way into the Naquane National Park of Rock Engravings. This historic area was chosen as the first recognized UNESCO World Heritage Site established in Italy in 1955.
The Naquane Park covers over 14 hectares of rock art land and holds 104 engraved rocks whose chronology ranges from the Neolithic (5th-4th millennium BCE) to the Iron Age (1st millennium BCE) when the region was inhabited by the Camunni andand it is these people who are best represented. The stone surfaces tell the story of man’s inhabitation in the valley including a thousand human stick figures found in numerous postures portraying them from hunting to fighting and even dancing. Village life is depicted in daily living situations and is complete with scenes of religious life ranging from what is interpreted as shamanistic rituals and divine like images. Camunian inscriptions and symbolic symbols are found as well. Taken as a whole it is no wonder that the park was chosen over the incredible historical treasures that this country holds and attests to the singular importance of the landmark .
The Camonica Valley has more than its share of historical significance as well as an array of good food and wine that rivals any in Italy, but there is one downside to the region and that is the northern access into the valley itself. Franz and I even came up with a new table for us which we dubbed the “barfometer.” Unfortunately the road we took rated a 10. Our chosen route represented on google maps did not mirror the reality of the seemingly endless WINDING road. At one point I came close to giving up on our destination but with Franz’s optimistic “we’re almost there” I persevered and was happy that I had. Just a heads up unless one drives from Milan the road in is not the most “motion friendly” route.
Despite the challenging drive the Valley was fascinating. We stayed at a local Airbnb the Valtili’-Camera Blu in Berzo Demo which had just opened. The family was gracious, the breakfast superb, the rooms were modern and tastefully decorated, and the location overlooking the Po River offered easy access to the major routes. The nearby Ristorante Pizzeria Piz Tri served up well priced and delicious local food and with a smile too. Our sojourn to Val Camonica was a blast to the prehistoric past but with good eats. This Natives kind of journey.
A loud crack reverberated in the deep gorge as the sound filled the forested canyon. It stopped dead in my tracks and I looked upwards to see where the sound originated from. A large branch began falling from the forest canopy and I shouted “WATCH OUT!” to a young man crossing the bridge who froze in place with eyes as wide as saucers. Myself and the other onlookers watched in horror as the evergreen plummeted down onto the unsuspecting hiker. Thankfully the bough landed just inches from his body. We were all relieved that he remained unscathed. Occasionally Mother Nature sends us a reminder of who really is the boss. Putting aside these concerns I enjoyed the sheer beauty of the 15,000 year Eistobel Gorge in Maierhofen, Germany. The canyon was carved out during the Ice Age and the rock layers have revealed millions of years of geological history including fossilized shark teeth from an ancient sea that had earlier covered the region. One literally walks back through time with the water cascading over rocks and plunging down chutes that are filled with the sound of the life giving compound echoing off its 900 meter depth. Dramatic and unique this geotope landscape is home to numerous rare species of plants and animals that thrive in this Bavarian environment. The reserve is open year round even during winter when crampons are a must and adventurous hikers trek into the canyon to view the formations covered in snow and ice. It was another day well spent delving into the recesses of the earth.
The swift Lech River flowed beneath the rocky trail leading through mountain meadows bursting with alpine blooms of all colors and buzzing with bees and fluttering butterflies. The temperature was pleasantly warm with a soft breeze blowing that made for perfect walking conditions. Franz and I had started our hike from the trail in Zug that began at the Fischerstüble that sits on the shores of turquoise green trout ponds that serve up freshly caught trout. The path meanders through stunning landscape and only occasionally does one run into other hikers. Birds of all kinds can be seen and waterfalls plunge dramatically down the ravines. The extended Lechweg is a certified long distance trail that connects three regions and two countries from the Arlberg in Austria to the Southern Allgau in Germany. But for us the extended version will have to wait for another time. Instead we ended our short jaunt at the Gasthaus Älpele and enjoyed a bite to eat in the local restaurant and headed on back to where we began. It was an easy stroll and an enjoyable way to spend the summer afternoon soaking in the Austrian rocky mountain vibes. http://www.lech-zuers.at/restaurants-lech/fischteichhttp://www.lechweg.com/en/the-trail/the-route/ http://www.aelpele-lech.at/willkommen-im-gasthaus-aelpele.html
Where to spend Friday date night? Well, at the 20 million year old sand formations on the Bregenzer Ach in Lauterach, Austria of course. After 32 years of date nights this was a first for us. I had passed by these unique formations on numerous occasions and had made a mental note to spend some time there. So on a recent Friday we finally did. Armed with a spritzig prosecco and goodies we did just that. We enjoyed a lovely summer evening frolicking in the water and admiring the remnants of the petrified sea coast formed by the ebb and flow of the tides that had once graced these lands million of years ago…
The imposing towers of the Bavarian Army Museum were striking against the azure skies over the Bavarian town of Ingolstadt, Germany. Looming medieval fortress walls enclosed the city center with typical Bavarian architecture mixed with Gothic buildings making for a nice Sunday afternoon stroll. Inglostadtians have Louis VII The Duke of Bavaria to thank for building the New Castle that combined both French and Gothic styles that grace the town today. The city dates back to 806 where it was first mentioned by Charlemagne. Its other claims to fame are that it is the home to Victor Frankenstein where he created his monster in Mary Shelley’s 1818 famous novel as well as being home to the original secret society The Illuminati that was formed in the 18th century. Back in its day from 1392-1447 it was also the seat of power and was capital of the Duchy of Bavaria-Inglostadt. But today it is a quaint city resting quietly along the shores of the Danube and as a friend assured me is a wonderful place to raise a family but for singles it is far from ideal. Regardless of its lack of thriving nightlife it was a wonderful way for this ole married couple to spend the afternoon.
The high temperatures of the day radiated off the stone avenues in the coastal city of Dubrovnik, Croatia. It was early September and the streets were sweltering and crowded with sunburnt tourists congregating to explore the 7th century town overlooking the sparkling Adriatic. But despite the hordes, I was determined to find the spot where the shorn and naked Cersei Lannister endured her “walk of shame” filmed for the popular TV series Game of Thrones. It turned out earlier I had unknowingly admired the Jesuit Staircase where the controversial atonement scene had been filmed. Being an avid fan of the show and having seen the site I was content to stroll the passages becoming a part of the swarming masses. Impressive is the word that comes to mind in describing this medieval gem crowned “The Pearl of the Adriatic.” The pristine city is adorned with terra cotta rooftops and limestone buildings of varying architectural styles including Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque that line the walkways dating to the 13th century. It was hard to imagine that during the Serbian Croatian War the city had been bombed but fortunately it has recovered and today this national treasure has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/95
For us the best way to enjoy the town was to stroll its meandering walkways with no set plan allowing the paths to lead us in discovering private terrace gardens, tucked away bars, and small galleries. The evening temperatures were pleasant to explore the well known sites that allowed for time and place with the day trippers packed off back to their cruise ships. We woke up early to take the popular self guided tour around the city atop the ancient ramparts to avoid the heat and crowds. It was a good strategy again allowing us time and room to admire the sea and the unsurpassed views with the morning light making for a photographer’s dream.
The former wealth of the noble settlement is apparent and its power was derived from its strategic position on the Dalmatian coast and its position gave it access to important shipping routes that allowed for trade far and wide. Their fascinating history is one of invasion, occupation, and war. Beginning in the 7th century they were attacked by the Slavs. They then merged with the Byzantine Empire in the 9th century where they became increasingly prosperous, so much so that the Venetians fearing their growing power attacked, and they came under their rule from 1205-1385. During this time the old city was built in the 13th century and even boasted a pharmacy that still stands today and an orphanage dating to these times as well. The city was raised by an earthquake in 1667 weakening it so much that Napoleon was able to take the city in 1806. After Napoleon was ousted they were once again swallowed up by the Austrian-Hungarian Empire in 1815. Following World War I Croatia became part of the Kingdom of the Serbs until after World War II, they then joined the other Balkan states to become Yugoslavia. And most recently during the Serbian Croatian war they were brutally besieged for seven months and the old town was badly damaged, but today it has been restored to its former glory attesting to the indomitable spirit of its people. http://www.likecroatia.com/news-tips/dubrovnik-home-to-the-oldest-working-pharmacy-in-europe/ http://www.tzdubrovnik.hr/lang/english/get/sakralni_objekti/5268/convent_of_st_claire.html http://www.visit-croatia.co.uk/index.php/croatia-destinations/dubrovnik/history-dubrovnik/
The culinary scene in Dubrovnik focuses on seafood and seasonal vegetables from the region. The typical restaurant menus are very good, although not particularly innovative, with the food prepared to allow the flavors to shine through unhindered by sauces and spices. One exceptional restaurant for us was the Bota Sare Oyster and Sushi Bar. What enticed me to this restaurant was a sign posted outside that they served the famous Mali Ston oysters that I had only read about. Oysters and sushi top the list of my favorite foods so it was a no brainer. Their prime location across from the famous 12-14th century Romanesque Cathedral of the Assumption offered a welcome respite from the droves but more importantly served up an outstanding Adriatic and Japanese fusion menu. We partook of the reputed Mali Ston oysters and sushi and paired the salty goodness of the succulent mollusks with a well known white wine called Pošip from Korčula. What a way to top the day reveling in the bounty of the sea while marveling at the architectural mastery of this gleaming city. http://www.bota-sare.hr/?restaurant=dubrovnik-old-town
After having tasted the lauded Mali Ston oysters the night before in Dubrovnik Franz and I just had to venture out to the source to taste some more of its salty goodness. So we boarded a local bus in the morning out to the Pelješac peninsula about an hour away and spent the afternoon exploring the bay and swimming in its temperate waters. We arrived just after the bus tours had left for the day so the village was quiet and relaxed. The idyllic Mali Ston sits at the edge of the clear waters of the bay of the same name and is really only a small assortment of modest houses and a few restaurants with a long ago abandoned castle that towers over the town. Its shores are lined with an assortment of boats of all sizes and shapes and is littered with plenty of oyster cages dangling alongside the water craft. The oysters have been farmed here since ancient times with the town founded in 1335 and the port built later in 1490. There are a series of fortifications of walls and towers constructed as defensive measures to protect the nearby Dubrovnik with a 5 kilometer wall joining the nearby Ston. And every September runners from around the world come to participate in the Stone Wall Marathon that follows these long ago defenses. http://www.croatiatraveller.com/southern_dalmatia/Peljesac/Ston.htm
The restaurant of our choice was the Kapetanova Kuca that has a enviable seaside location with a harbor view of the calm waters that nurture the oysters to delectable perfection. We feasted on them of course and chose a beautiful grilled fish with a side of black squid risotto and paired it with several glasses of Pošip from Korčula. Our meal ended on a sweet note of Mali Ston cake called Stonski makaruli. We were in luck and had the restaurant almost to ourselves and basked in the attentive Dalmatian hospitality. This is one place I will come back to again and again. http://www.ostrea.hr/restaurant/
A vertical drop lay to one side of the road and unconsciously I leaned towards the mountain as our taxi slowly rounded the serpentine curves of the Dinaric Alps of Montenegro. This tiny mountainous country has the well earned reputation of having the most rugged terrain in Europe with its mountain ranges that rise from sea level to an average elevation of 6,562 ft. It makes for dramatic views. As we reached the summit the breathtaking Adriatic lay below us revealing the narrow coastal plain that meets the steep mountains. This precious swatch of land is only 4 km at its widest and holds many settlements and larger cities along on its rocky shores. The subtropical landscape is a Mediterranean marquis which is composed of a mixture of hardy shrubbery and woodlands and in the late summer heat the air was scented with the fragrance of sage, pine, and tinged with just a touch of salt.
The stunning landscape is just one reason we were enchanted by this coastal nation with the other being the amiable people we met. We found them friendly and resilient despite the difficult social and political challenges that their country has experienced and still is. I was surprised as how open they were to talk about the economic problems that they were facing personally as well how this directly affected their town. A concern that was voiced again and again was with the growing Russian influence on the economic and political situation and what that may hold for the future of the region. It was pretty eye opening to say the least. But despite their turbulent history and the uncertain times they were proud of their country and cultural heritage and rightly so.
We had arranged for a driver to meet us at the small Podgorica airport and he drove us over the coastal range to the seaside town of Petrovac. The small city is a family oriented tourist destination with many international guests with a large majority coming from Russia. We only found out later that it was known a “Russian town” although one figures that out pretty quickly with the menus in Cyrillic and Russian is spoken everywhere. Their presence grew tiresome as I became less tolerant of the Russian women’s selfie obsession and constant preening for the camera at every possible photographic opportunity. And this is saying a lot for a native of Southern California who grew up in a society that embraces the quest for youth and beauty.
Aside from the aspiring Russian models Petrovac was a good location to explore the nearby areas. And that we did making day excursions inland to Skadar Lake and Lovćen National Park, and coastal jaunts to the cities of Budva and Ulcinj. We had hoped that the first week of September would not be quite so hot but it was so we adjusted our activities accordingly. Our Airbnb lodging were simple but the location was convenient. What the room lacked in amenities the host made up in kindness. She was a lovely woman who treated us well and offered us a glimpse into the life of a local family. We met some of her relatives and friends and we joined them several times in conversation and shared their homemade prosciutto, cheese, and potent vodka.
After our days activities we enjoyed happy hour and a refreshing swim at the Cafe Club Ponta with its sea level bar and unsurpassed view. And every night we visited a new restaurant reveling in the tasty seafood and enjoyed late nights drinks in the numerous bars listening to local music. Our favorite bar for a closing night cap was the Terasa Castello where they also made a mean Margarita and the cliffside setting was stunning. Petrovac does have its share of problems with abandoned building projects, lack of job opportunities, and Russian drug trafficking, etc. but despite this we found the Montenegrins to be engaging and very charming people.
Bustling Budva
The bus driver deftly maneuvered his coach along the busy route lined with high rise apartments and hotels toour days destination of Budva which is the largest city in Montenegro. He unknowingly provided us with entertainment with his ongoing commentary of greeting his numerous friends or yelling at offending drivers. After a lively ride we were deposited near the Stari Grad (Old Town) and spent the afternoon there strolling the walled stone city and the narrow walkways lined with tourist shops and sidewalk cafes. We found the Old Town limited in what it had to offer of historical importance but the imposing Citadela fortress was an impressive structure that housed a small museum with a library filled with rare books and old maps and was worth the look. The Old Town is oriented to the bustling harbor that is crowded with high end yachts and working boats and the waterfront is lined with endless seafood restaurants. We decided to lunch inside the old city at a shady restaurant that was a welcome relief from the heat of the day. Our eatery was the Kafana Rivijera and a fine choice it was. We enjoyed a cool tomato gazpacho, generous octopus and calamari salads, and a tasty Tres Leche cake topped with fruit. After our leisurely meal we chose to return to Petrovac via scenic water taxi to Sveti Stefan, the famous fortified 2km island dating from 1442. The island town has a venerable history having been ruled and occupied by Venetians and Ottomans and later became distinguished as the summer residence of the Queen of Serbia. Today it still caters to the international rich and famous and is an acclaimed 5 star luxury resort. We admired the picturesque island, disembarked our small boat, bid our friendly driver adieu, and made our way back to our local seaside bar for happy hour and an cool evening dip.
Water lily petals covered the surface of the calm inlet as our tour boat made its way out into the open waters of Lake Skadar. The coolness of the wind was a welcome relief from the steaming bus we had taken earlier from Petrovac to the small village of Virpazar that sits on the shores of Lake Skadar National Park. Skadar is the largest fresh water lake in the Balkans and Montenegro shares its shoreline with Albania. In the summertime its waters cover about 370 square miles increasing in winter up to 530 square kilometers. The length is around 44 km by 10 km wide and has an average depth of 8 meters. This wetland is vital to the region and is home to the endangered Dalmatian Pelican that is one of the largest of its kind measuring from a whopping 160-183 cm in length and has a wingspan from 290-345 cm. It is one massive bird. In addition to the pelican there is a myriad of other birdlife with over 260 species represented making for a birder’s paradise.
Our small vessel was filled with the obligatory aging Russian beauties, a group of young Montenegrins, a few families, and overall it was an interesting collection of travelers. We had chosen an English speaking tour but that was not to be as our Russian tour guide informed us she had had only two months of English although we were quite impressed with the information she did manage to relay. Nevertheless we enjoyed the incredible natural beauty of the emerald waters and the imposing mountains in the distance. We began our cruise with a breakfast of fried sweet balls similar to a doughnut that we dipped in honey, local soft cheese, and of course vodka. Vodka we found was offered morning and night and the portions were always very generous. As the the temperatures rose we were grateful for our shade canopy and we stopped in different areas so that the we could swim in the refreshing waters. Following our four hour ride we enjoyed a delicious group lunch at the Hotel Pelikan where we feasted on tasty fish soup and fresh trout while chatting with our table mates.
Afterwards we were free to roam about the small fishing village of Virpazar where we visited the small museum and learned about the area’s history and sites that include the remains of 15 medieval Orthodox monasteries dating as far back as the ancient Slav Zeta Dynasty from 1360-1421, several fortresses, and even an island prison. The control over the strategic lake was one of ongoing struggle with the Venetians, the Ottomans, and the Hungarians all vying for position along with the Ottomans who had managed to hold onto it for five centuries until the beginning of the 19th. The land surrounding the lake is fertile and is known for the small wine producing region of Crmnica that is considered to produce the best wines of Montenegro from the red varnac grape.
Montenegro can prove to be quite a challenge when traveling solely by public transportation especially when trying to reach the mountainous interior. So we ended up renting a car for a day to visit a few inland sites that led us up winding roads and down steep terrain that proved to be a bit harrowing at times. Our first stop was the Old Royal Capital of Cetinje that was founded in the 15th century and sits in a valley at the base of the Lovcen mountains. Today it holds the title of the honorary capital of Montenegro. Cetinje in earlier times was an important Montenegrin cultural hub as well as a flourishing Eastern Orthodox religious center. The city also bore the brunt of invading Venetian and Ottoman troops and saw the end to the Crnojević dynasty and the beginning of the Petrović dynasty that ruled from 1697-1918. The outskirts of the city reflected the years of neglect under the Soviet yoke but in recent times with funding from the EU the inner city has received a much needed facelift. The shops, cafes, and sites have been renovated and made for a short but interesting walking tour. We visited the Vlaška Church built in 1450 with its cherished altar and crowns from the old monarchy, and the Ethnographic Museum that had a wonderful exhibition of regional textile artwork. Unfortunately we were only able to visit the exterior of the Cetinje Monastery which is the most famous Serb Orthodox Monastery that was rebuilt in 1785. It was too bad because I was interested in the important relics they hold that include the remains of St. Peter of Cetinje and the right hand of John the Baptist.
The roads in Montenegro are not for the faint-hearted. They are often narrow with winding S turns and steep drop-offs, unpaved, and sometimes there are no safety rails. This can make for some heart pounding moments but if one takes their time you can arrive safely at your destination albeit a bit dusty. After our jaunt through Cetinjewe hit the road again to find a village nestled adjacent to Lovćen National Park called Njeguši that we had heard about. They reputably make the best prosciutto and cheese (Njeguški pršut and Njeguški sir) in Montenegro so naturally we had just had to visit. We did find the tiny village with a booming 17 inhabitants and lots of feral cats but it was charmingly complete with traditional folk architecture and it seemed as if we had stepped into an earlier time. The village also sold many of its own products such as wool textiles and clothing, brandy, and honey. After a short stroll in the village we settled on the restaurant Restoran Konoba koi Radonjica where we enjoyed a typical mountain meal of roast lamb, prosciutto, potatoes, and a sweet cucumber and tomato salad. We also had a nice chat with two retired Swiss motorcyclists who were on a summer tour of the Balkans and they amused us with a few of their adventure stories. We found out later that the name of the village bore the name of the local tribe of the region and was also the birthplace of the Petrović Dynasty. The village attracts many summer tourists fortunately we were traveling in September so the town was relatively quiet.
Lovely Lovćen National Park
Lovely Lovćen National Park
The Lovćen National Park signs beckoned to us so after our meal we set off to find a trail to hike in the rocky terrain. We settled upon a path that promised a striking view of the landscape and we were not disappointed. We encountered no people on the trails and took in the solitude and the lovely mountain flora. The way was pretty rough and karst is not forgiving so one has to pay attention a bit more. Unfortunately we did not have a lot of time left and Franz had to leave climbing to the top of Jezerski Vrh at 1657m and the Njegoš Mausoleum for another time. We had a long drive back to Petrovac so we enjoyed the time we had and headed down the impressive mountain road overlooking the famous Bay of Kotor with its commanding view all the way to the Adriatic. It simply takes your breathe away. The 17 km. zigzagging narrow one way road has the reputation as one of the most famous hair pinned road in the world and I can definitely attest to that. I would add nail biting as well. It has 25 of them to be exact with plenty of sheer drops. It was an experience that I was glad to have had but for me once was more than enough.
Crossing the bridge over the emerald moat and entering the imposing North Gate into the city of Kotor, Montenegro one is instantly transported back into another time. Within this walled Stari Grad images of the ancient pathways thronging with crusaders, Muslim robed traders, and black clad monks coming together in this cultural hub from the Mediterranean to the Middle East, and as far away as Africa speaking a babel of tongues light up the imagination. Franz and I had arrived from Dubrovnik, Croatia via an easy 2 hour bus ride to visit the magnificent Bay of Kotor which is a well deserved UNESCO World Heritage Site.
My steady breathing was in sync with my steps as Franz and I climbed the hiking path and the 1,350 stairs winding up to the Fortress of St John that looked down on the Old Townat 820 feet above sea level. We had gotten up early to make our vertical ascent to avoid the heat of the day and the cruise ship crowds. The crisp air was tinged with a faint whiff of smoke from some forest fires in the nearby Albanian mountains but despite the haze we were rewarded for our efforts. Below us lay the magnificent Bota Kotorska Bay with no one else around and the view was simply stunning. The morning light reflecting off the fjords emerald waters painted a watery rendition of the towering peaks on its calm surface. The bay is the deepest in the Mediterranean Sea and is surrounded by imposing limestone mountains whose faces are lined with 3 miles of defensive fortifications and was quite a building feat in this rocky terrain. After drinking in natures magnificence we made our descent and only then did a few tourists make their way up the trail. We exchanged some pleasantries with a fellow Californian who had been traveling for a few years and it was a welcome respite to trade travel stories and tips with someone from my neck of the woods.
As we wandered the harbor looking for a highly reviewed restaurant to book a table for the evening we found the police had blocked off the side streets leaving only the main route open. Soon the sounds of sirens and police cars could be heard leading a motorcade of black tinted limousines to the city. We wondered who these important people were and I offhandedly remarked that it must be the president of Montenegro. Unknowingly we bypassed the security and found the upscale restaurant whose access was also blocked but the entrance was still open. So I walked right up to reserve a place for dinner. The hostess was a bit surprised and informed me they were closed for a private event. Regardless she was friendly and reserved our table for dinner. I inquired what VIP was in the restaurant and we were told that it was the President of Montenegro and the President of San Marino. Of course I had to peek in a bit to see the distinguished guests and inquired as to what they were having. That evening in the romantic setting with a fantastic table and impeccable service we enjoyed the same delicious seafood meal that the dignitaries had had. If it was good enough for two presidents it was certainly good enough for us. A friend’s humorous quip was “Everybody wants to eat where Sharon and Franz do.” Too funny.
Our simple lodgings we had booked with Airbnb were inside the old city and its location could not have been better. We had easy access to restaurants and bars and enjoyed some typical Montenegrin meals of seafood, prosciutto, and local cheese. The well preserved city is small and in the evening the cruise ship tourists leave and the streets are lively but not too overcrowded so one can get a feeling for the locale. Today historians can’t say when Kotor came into existence but what is known is that it was a Greek settlement inhabited with Illyrians and Romans as well and that it had been written about before the time of Homer around IV-VII century BCE. The city has had a tumultuous past and has been plundered by the Ostrogoths in the 500’s and the Saracens the 800’s and was occupied respectively by the Bulgarians, the Serbs, the Venetians, the Habsburgs, the Ottomans, and lastly the little big man himself Napoleon. This long history of ruler and the ruled made for a fascinating trip into the bygone days of this culturally rich region and provided an excellent location for exploring the mountainous neighborhood.
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The friendly conversation with the local gentleman was our introduction to Bienno and this hospitality continued as Franz and I wandered the ancient walkways of what has been voted “One of Italy’s most beautiful cities.” We took in the fine ironwork and colorful facades and found the shop owners welcoming and their products were not of the typical variety found in many tourist towns. One such establishment was a traditional leather maker who not only fashioned custom shoes but created scabbard sheaths for swords. Another fascinating building was the Forge Workshop whose facade displayed the artistic work that this “iron born” town had been known for in supplying tools and weaponry. Overlooking the village is a fifteenth century water mill that is still in use and was manned by an elderly couple that sell the freshly ground products. Bienno brought back to life its proud past and is a testament to its amiable people and their creative craftwork all nestled into the fairytale mountain valley.
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The Naquane Park covers over 14 hectares of rock art land and holds 104 engraved rocks whose chronology ranges from the Neolithic (5th-4th millennium BCE) to the Iron Age (1st millennium BCE) when the region was inhabited by the Camunni and and it is these people who are best represented. The stone surfaces tell the story of man’s inhabitation in the valley including a thousand human stick figures found in numerous postures portraying them from hunting to fighting and even dancing. Village life is depicted in daily living situations and is complete with scenes of religious life ranging from what is interpreted as shamanistic rituals and divine like images. Camunian inscriptions and symbolic symbols are found as well. Taken as a whole it is no wonder that the park was chosen over the incredible historical treasures that this country holds and attests to the singular importance of the landmark .
