Category Archives: Italy

Strolling and Cruising through Venice, Italy, 5-2014

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By Vaporetto through the Canale Grande.

Franz and I had not been to Venice in a few years and felt we were long overdue for a short trip. So we decided to take a jaunt during the week in late May when the weather was warm and it wasn’t high season yet. We chose well. The weather cooperated and we had clear skies as we made our way via the Arlberg tunnel to Innsbruck and then over the Brenner Pass through the majestic peaks of the Dolomiti mountains of South Tyrol. This scenic route winds through towering mountains with cascading waterfalls flowing down dark rock faces on either side of the road. There was very little snow left except on the very high peaks and the river was running fast with white rapids. The cows were already grazing in the lower elevations and the meadows were vibrant with color. We descended into the Italian lowlands and drove through the numerous vineyards and orchards as we made our way through the rather unremarkable cities that line the highways into Venice. The weather was slightly overcast and we could feel the humidity as we neared the coast.

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This was the first time we had booked a room through AirBnB and we were a bit disappointed. We’ve had a few friends who had recommend the service and spoke very highly of their successful bookings. But for us unfortunately the accommodations were at best adequate. It may be that this being Italy the standard is sometimes at a lower level than what we are used to in the Germanic speaking countries. But suffice it to say we would not recommend the place although the location was convenient. We chose for the first time not to stay on the island but instead stayed nearby in the mainland city of Mestre. But the neighborhood was nice. And we did find around the corner a great bar with an outdoor garden area to enjoy our evening Aperol Spritz garnished with orange slices and served with prosciutto on toasted bread and succulent green olives. A perfect appetizer for a slightly humid climate. In addition we found a great restaurant nearby called La Nuova Favorita. The restaurant served up steaks, seafood, pasta, and pizza. We ate there for two nights and for our first meal we had a great fried seafood platter with prawns, calamari, and sardines served with fried polenta. The second dinner we had was a to die for Pasta con vongole (clams) and they were so generous with the clams and olive oil. I LOVE this dish! We drank a simple Prosecco from the Veneto region that had a slight spritz to it and it was quite refreshing and paired well with seafood.

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Franz has been to “the most serene Republic of Venice” eight times before and this was my third time and we have enjoyed every bit of our earlier stays and have visited many of the well known touristy sights. So now we simply reveled in strolling the narrow walkways and viewing the beautiful nooks and crannies that this lovely city has to offer the curious admirer. It was wonderful to enjoy the sights, sounds, residents, and visitors of this most unique of watery cities. After meandering down the canal lined thoroughfares window shopping and delighting in the carnevale mask shops, Murano glass displays, burnished leather goods, and artistic pasta shops we indulged in the required gelato ice cream.

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After whetting our appetite we stopped for lunch in a small restaurant where we indulged our palate in some fine pasta and tuna salads. After we were satiated we sauntered on to visit the landmark St. Mark’s Square with the crowning glories of the Doge’s Palace and St Mark’s Basilica. The Doge’s Palace is so breathtaking with its Venetian Gothic styled arches and pillars lining its beautifully decorated facade. And St. Marks Basilica never fails to impress with its intricate gold ground mosaics and its opulent mixture of Italo-Byzantine architecture. After admiring the celebrated World Heritage Site we boarded a boat and took a tour around the small islands that lie in the lagoons of the Adriatic Sea. The ride offered our feet a respite from the hard stone streets of this majestic city.

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We ended our whirlwind tour with a cruise down the magnificent Canale Grande paying homage to the master architects of the Venetian past. We then headed on back to the mainland in anticipation of our evening meal and contemplating what wines we would drink.

 

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Ski Touring in the Dolomiti, Italy, 4-2014

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As we closed the doors of our car at the end of the narrow valley near San Vigilio di Marebbe in South Tyrol we entered a landscape seemingly out of the minds of fantasy movies like Lord of the Rings. Sahara sand had blown from North Africa and left yellow patches everywhere which gave the scenery an even more otherworldly appearance. It is rare that there is so much snow this far south at the beginning of April. This winter had been bad for ski resorts north of the Alps, but it delivered huge amounts of snow in the south. South Tyrol is a great mixture of Tyrolian “Gemütlichkeit”,  Italian food, and culture. The valley we where in was one of the few areas where they speak “Ladin” in addition to German and Italian. The so called Pederü hut was a newly built Alpine hotel with all the amenities, great food, wine, and hospitality. We spent the first night in anticipation of scaling the mountains the next day.

Breakfast was at 6:30 am, an hour later we got into our touring ski boots and strapped the skins onto our touring skis. It was cloudy in the morning and we followed the road up the hill which led to another couple of huts which was  to be our destination the following day. Quite a few other skiers were on the same path, but we hung a left up a steep ravine higher up and were soon alone. Higher and higher we climbed until we got to a saddle with a breathtaking view of the surrounding peaks. At the same time the sun came out to complete this spectacular scenery. The snow got soft very fast.

Dolomiti1Another narrow slope and we had reached the highest point of the day. We took a break to enjoy some of the tea we had brought in our thermos that morning.

We took off skins, tied our boots down, fixed our bindings in the skiing position, and off we skied down the other side of where we had just ascended. The snow has breaking up and there were a lot of half frozen tracks from other skiers, and it gave us no pleasure to ski whatsoever. Further down, however, the slope widened and we moved to a trackless expanse. The snow there was soft at the top, and we could carve our turns leaving a signature for all to see. The altitude – we got up to almost 3000m – and the skiing made us breathe hard as we were descending to a high plateau. Our next goal was still another hut, so when we reached the lowest point we put our skins back on and trudged uphill once more. It was really warm by then and the snow had a distinct mushy quality. After another couple of hours of going up and down we finally reached the Sennes hut where we had some well deserved pasta and lots of liquid to replenish our fluids.

Now it was time to descend into the narrow valley below back to our hotel. It felt more like descending into hell, the canyon got very narrow and we ended up on what felt like a twisting bobsled run. The road we ended up on was a military road built in World War I. South Tyrol was the location of heavy fighting between Austrian and Italian soldiers. Both sides dragged cannons up high into the mountains and battled each other in every manner they could think of.

IMG_3954The next day we packed our belongings and headed higher to the Fanes hut. Here we stayed in a room for eight, with a shared  bathroom and a shower outside in the hallway. The sky was cloudless, which also meant that the night had been colder. We could expect better snow conditions, especially on slopes facing north. We left some of our belongings at the hut and headed to our mountain of the day, the Monte Castello. An initial climb of 150m high, we later ended up on another plateau with our intended peak visible in the distance. The Dolomiti mountains remind me of the American Southwest, with large blocks of rock rising from snowfields.

Another short downhill later we traversed a side valley, then put our skins on for the final ascent, this one took it all out of us for the next 2 1/2 hours. But we were rewarded with breathtaking views at the top and no other skiers in sight.Dolomiti2After a long break we skied down on wonderful snow, ascended back to our plateau and skied back to the hut for some welcome libations. An excellent dinner completed this amazing day.

The next day was my last, so we went on a ski tour with southern exposure. On the way up the snow was hard, but a couple of hours later in the hot sun it was soft like silk. My last run down was on an untouched carpet of snow. The road back to the Pederü hut followed, then I packed it up for the exit from this fairytale location.

 

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Amazing Mosaics in Ravenna Italy, 1-2014

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The Milan skies were gray with a touch of light fog as we drove out of the urban sprawl of Milan. Our destination was the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the city of Ravenna. Ravenna during the fifth to eight century was the western capital of the Byzantine Empire. Formally the city site was a lagoon that was drained and the city was built upon the former swampy land. In the 1700’s a canal was installed that reconnected it once again to the nearby Adriatic Sea. The freeway leading to Ravenna is lined with a dreary industrial and manufacturing scenery that is a real eyesore. The landscape is occasionally dotted with neglected buildings from an earlier time or groves of noble cypress trees, but not often enough. As we entered the rundown outskirts of Ravenna through the numerous roundabouts and one way streets we were a bit skeptical as to what our destination would bring. But were we pleasantly surprised. As one enters the city the faded glorious past has lovingly been restored and maintained. The city center was quaint with care given the aging patina of its old buildings and monuments.

We located our bed and breakfast accommodations and were very pleased with our choice. Our room was small, but charming complete with modern fixtures and electronics. It was situated on a one street away from the main city pedestrian area but still remained quiet. The old town is charming and tidy with small shops filled with lItalian leather goods, clothing, and designer boutiques. Numerous trattorias, small cafes, and espresso bars that offer regional fare from the region of Emilia Romagna are everywhere. In Ravenna one does not lack for eating and drinking possibilities. We found the people kind and friendly. Franz speaks passable Italian and I none, but the local people didn’t care and they spoke to us even more effusively. The inner city is made for walking. And walk we did. It’s wonderful to stroll aimlessly down the streets simply window shopping and stopping for an occasional gelato or coffee. We commandeered a map from the local tourism office and set out to see the world renown mosaics that the city has to offer.

 

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Holiday Cheer in Milan, Italy, 12-2013

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This year the weather was unusually warm in Austria, in fact it was the fifth warmest January since records began in 1768. Our local mountain snowfall levels were so low that we cancelled our New Years ski vacation and instead headed to the warmer environs of Italy to ring in the New Year. We were lucky and were blessed with the most wonderful driving weather for this time of year. The sun was dazzling bright and the snow peaks glistened. We drove from Austria past the small snowy alpine village of Sufers with its lovely Sufnersee and then through the San Bernardino tunnel. We descended the winding roads into the valley of the Swiss Italian Canton of Ticino with the characteristic Italian orange red farm houses that grace the steep hillsides with orchards and terraced grape vines. At the base of the mountain sits the picturesque Lago de Lugano. The freeway runs alongside the lake and one can get glimpses of the inviting lake and its charming cities that rest along its shores.

We crossed the border into Italy and travelled through the Lombardy region past fields of rice and grain until we entered into the sprawling metropolitan area that surrounds the bustling city of Milan. Founded originally by the Celts it was later conquered by the Romans eventually becoming the capital of the Western Roman Empire. Power changed hands from France, Spain then to Austria, and finally in 1859 it became the new Kingdom of Italy. In the early 1900’s the city was a leader in industrial progress but suffered greatly during World War II. Post war Milan recovered rapidly becoming the country’s main industrial, commercial, financial, and design center. Milan is an interesting combination of sophistication, glitz, cutting edge architecture that stands in stark contrast to the decaying facades of its glorious past. It’s a city that has arisen after years of neglect whose streets are filled with energy, purpose, and immigrants. The city was quiet after the clamor of Christmas and the holiday decorations adorned it. We settled in our lodgings for the night and headed out to enjoy the radiance that emblazoned the city center.

_DSC8887We found our way to the main piazza and the Milan Cathedral was enhanced with towering Christmas trees and glowing lights. The Duomo di Milano is the fifth largest cathedral in the world and it was simply magnificent. Crowds of well dressed Italian people had congregated there to enjoy the sights and the Christmas spirit permeated the air. The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is one of the oldest shopping malls and it’s crowned with a four story double arcade. It was especially glorious with the high domed ceiling embellished with blue lights that looked heavenly. We made our way through the city admiring the sights and the festive shop windows until we reached the church Santa Maria della Grazie whose convent wall is graced with the famous mural of Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper. After paying homage to the great master we continued on our meandering walk through the city passages and had our hearts set on a succulent Osso Buco for our evening meal. But alas, due to the holiday we had to settle for a more modest fare for supper, but we were still able to enjoy the evening hours with an assortment of full bodied Lombardy wines.

 

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