The imposing towers of the Bavarian Army Museum were striking against the azure skies over the Bavarian town of Ingolstadt, Germany. Looming medieval fortress walls enclosed the city center with typical Bavarian architecture mixed with Gothic buildings making for a nice Sunday afternoon stroll. Inglostadtians have Louis VII The Duke of Bavaria to thank for building the New Castle that combined both French and Gothic styles that grace the town today. The city dates back to 806 where it was first mentioned by Charlemagne. Its other claims to fame are that it is the home to Victor Frankenstein where he created his monster in Mary Shelley’s 1818 famous novel as well as being home to the original secret society The Illuminati that was formed in the 18th century. Back in its day from 1392-1447 it was also the seat of power and was capital of the Duchy of Bavaria-Inglostadt. But today it is a quaint city resting quietly along the shores of the Danube and as a friend assured me is a wonderful place to raise a family but for singles it is far from ideal. Regardless of its lack of thriving nightlife it was a wonderful way for this ole married couple to spend the afternoon.
Christmas was in the air with the scents of freshly baked gingerbread, spiced cider, and sizzling sausages as I strolled the Christmas market of the 2000 year old city of Kempten, Germany. Seasonal decorations adorned the shops and walkways and there were plenty of visitors enjoying the festive mood despite the low December temperatures. But anticipating the cold we were bundled up for an afternoon of exploring the inner city of the capital of the oldest “urban settlement” in Germany.
Kempten is located in Southwest Germany in the Allgäu region of Schwabia along the Iller River. It is about an hour’s drive away from Bregenz. And it has a glorious history boasting both Celtic and Roman roots and was first mentioned by the Greek geographer Strabon in 50 BC by its former name Cambodunum. Around 700 AD the monastery Kempten Abbey was built by the influential Benedictine monks Magnus von Füssen and Theodor from the Abbey of Saint Gall in nearby Switzerland. It was the first in the region and grew to be the most influential in the Frankish Kingdom. The church unfortunately suffered from invasion by the Magyars and the Thirty Years War and had to be rebuilt in 1652 becoming the new St. Lorenz Basilica. The highlights in the city include the Archaeological Park Cambodunum and the interactive underground chapel called the Erasmuskapelle.
The Christmas market served up all of the usual holiday fare such as Flammkuchen, a sort of Alsatian Pizza and many varieties of sausages. Even better for us they had a gourmet section as well where the local cooking school served up gourmet goodies such as duck with red cabbage laced with chocolate. We toasted yuletide greetings with glasses of sparkling Prosecco and had a dessert of Kaiserschmarren, which is a sweet pancake like dish served with plum compote and topped with powdered sugar. Super yummy! What a lovely way to wait for Christmas Day.
The high temperatures of the day radiated off the stone avenues in the coastal city of Dubrovnik, Croatia. It was early September and the streets were sweltering and crowded with sunburnt tourists congregating to explore the 7th century town overlooking the sparkling Adriatic. But despite the hordes, I was determined to find the spot where the shorn and naked Cersei Lannister endured her “walk of shame” filmed for the popular TV series Game of Thrones. It turned out earlier I had unknowingly admired the Jesuit Staircase where the controversial atonement scene had been filmed. Being an avid fan of the show and having seen the site I was content to stroll the passages becoming a part of the swarming masses. Impressive is the word that comes to mind in describing this medieval gem crowned “The Pearl of the Adriatic.” The pristine city is adorned with terra cotta rooftops and limestone buildings of varying architectural styles including Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque that line the walkways dating to the 13th century. It was hard to imagine that during the Serbian Croatian War the city had been bombed but fortunately it has recovered and today this national treasure has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/95
For us the best way to enjoy the town was to stroll its meandering walkways with no set plan allowing the paths to lead us in discovering private terrace gardens, tucked away bars, and small galleries. The evening temperatures were pleasant to explore the well known sites that allowed for time and place with the day trippers packed off back to their cruise ships. We woke up early to take the popular self guided tour around the city atop the ancient ramparts to avoid the heat and crowds. It was a good strategy again allowing us time and room to admire the sea and the unsurpassed views with the morning light making for a photographer’s dream.
The former wealth of the noble settlement is apparent and its power was derived from its strategic position on the Dalmatian coast and its position gave it access to important shipping routes that allowed for trade far and wide. Their fascinating history is one of invasion, occupation, and war. Beginning in the 7th century they were attacked by the Slavs. They then merged with the Byzantine Empire in the 9th century where they became increasingly prosperous, so much so that the Venetians fearing their growing power attacked, and they came under their rule from 1205-1385. During this time the old city was built in the 13th century and even boasted a pharmacy that still stands today and an orphanage dating to these times as well. The city was raised by an earthquake in 1667 weakening it so much that Napoleon was able to take the city in 1806. After Napoleon was ousted they were once again swallowed up by the Austrian-Hungarian Empire in 1815. Following World War I Croatia became part of the Kingdom of the Serbs until after World War II, they then joined the other Balkan states to become Yugoslavia. And most recently during the Serbian Croatian war they were brutally besieged for seven months and the old town was badly damaged, but today it has been restored to its former glory attesting to the indomitable spirit of its people. http://www.likecroatia.com/news-tips/dubrovnik-home-to-the-oldest-working-pharmacy-in-europe/ http://www.tzdubrovnik.hr/lang/english/get/sakralni_objekti/5268/convent_of_st_claire.html http://www.visit-croatia.co.uk/index.php/croatia-destinations/dubrovnik/history-dubrovnik/
The culinary scene in Dubrovnik focuses on seafood and seasonal vegetables from the region. The typical restaurant menus are very good, although not particularly innovative, with the food prepared to allow the flavors to shine through unhindered by sauces and spices. One exceptional restaurant for us was the Bota Sare Oyster and Sushi Bar. What enticed me to this restaurant was a sign posted outside that they served the famous Mali Ston oysters that I had only read about. Oysters and sushi top the list of my favorite foods so it was a no brainer. Their prime location across from the famous 12-14th century Romanesque Cathedral of the Assumption offered a welcome respite from the droves but more importantly served up an outstanding Adriatic and Japanese fusion menu. We partook of the reputed Mali Ston oysters and sushi and paired the salty goodness of the succulent mollusks with a well known white wine called Pošip from Korčula. What a way to top the day reveling in the bounty of the sea while marveling at the architectural mastery of this gleaming city. http://www.bota-sare.hr/?restaurant=dubrovnik-old-town
After having tasted the lauded Mali Ston oysters the night before in Dubrovnik Franz and I just had to venture out to the source to taste some more of its salty goodness. So we boarded a local bus in the morning out to the Pelješac peninsula about an hour away and spent the afternoon exploring the bay and swimming in its temperate waters. We arrived just after the bus tours had left for the day so the village was quiet and relaxed. The idyllic Mali Ston sits at the edge of the clear waters of the bay of the same name and is really only a small assortment of modest houses and a few restaurants with a long ago abandoned castle that towers over the town. Its shores are lined with an assortment of boats of all sizes and shapes and is littered with plenty of oyster cages dangling alongside the water craft. The oysters have been farmed here since ancient times with the town founded in 1335 and the port built later in 1490. There are a series of fortifications of walls and towers constructed as defensive measures to protect the nearby Dubrovnik with a 5 kilometer wall joining the nearby Ston. And every September runners from around the world come to participate in the Stone Wall Marathon that follows these long ago defenses. http://www.croatiatraveller.com/southern_dalmatia/Peljesac/Ston.htm
The restaurant of our choice was the Kapetanova Kuca that has a enviable seaside location with a harbor view of the calm waters that nurture the oysters to delectable perfection. We feasted on them of course and chose a beautiful grilled fish with a side of black squid risotto and paired it with several glasses of Pošip from Korčula. Our meal ended on a sweet note of Mali Ston cake called Stonski makaruli. We were in luck and had the restaurant almost to ourselves and basked in the attentive Dalmatian hospitality. This is one place I will come back to again and again. http://www.ostrea.hr/restaurant/
You gotta love the Spaniards. To be able to order a Filet de Lenguado with sautéed vegetables and a generous portion of mussels served in a fragrant broth at 11:30 at night was fantastic. Especially after our late flight to Malaga and having had difficulties in locating our hotel we had hopes of finding a snack but to our delight we enjoyed a fine dining experience. Food is but one of the reasons we are drawn back to España again and again. The Spaniards simply know how to enjoy life and embrace it in their daily rituals. My kind of people. Malaga is a melting pot of cultures. This 2,800 year old city was founded by the seafaring Phoenicians around 770 BC and today has a bustling port with direct access to the sea and trade routes that have contributed to their rich cultural heritage and is reflected in their impressive architectural cityscape. In the early morning Franz and I climbed the hill that houses the iconic Alcazaba and we were greeted by the twittering of birds and slopes of withering cactus that resembled ghostly images of Don Quixote and conquistadors. The fortress sits right in the center of the historic city and was built in the 11th century by the Hammudid dynasty that built the Islamic Caliphate that reigned for 800 years in Europe but was captured during the Reconquista by the Catholic Monarchs Isabella and Ferdinand during the Siege of Malaga in 1487. The complex includes an inner and outer citadel, the remains of a Roman theatre, a military museum, and mosaic enclosed patios and gardens. The fortification offers commanding views of prominent landmarks such as the La Malagueta Bullring, the Renaissance Malaga Cathedral, and the harbor below filled with ships from throughout the world and in the far distance the coast of North Africa can be seen.
The dusk sky had streaks of pinks, grays, and blues graced with the occasional cloud that provided a spectacular backdrop for the Roman bridge crossing the Guadalquivir River leading to the Great Mosque of Cordoba. Adding further to the drama a full moon appeared high in the sky and was mirrored on the watery surface making for an picture perfect setting. It’s no wonder this famous bridge has appeared in numerous films including the latest Game of Thrones series.
The clanging of church bells summoned the Catholic faithful to Sunday mass in the neighborhood square as we entered the quirky cafe that became our home away from home breakfasting in the morning and nightcapping in the evening. As one enters the cafe the aroma of brewing coffee mingled with the sweet scent of fresh tomato puree on toasted bread topped with salty Iberian ham or “toasta” is super enticing. The people in town were friendly and we began a conservation with an interesting local couple. The young woman asked me a question that struck me as particularly insightful. She asked how I felt about visiting Spain given my Native American heritage and the history of Spanish colonialism in America. I was impressed with her perception and knowledge and we spent an enjoyable time connecting with this fascinating pair.
The food of Spain is as always SO GOOD! During our stay we had so many memorable meals of Iberian pork, seafood, fresh produce topped with local olive oil. The Andalusian plains are filled with olive trees dedicated to the growing and production of this delicious elixir. There is such abundance that a well known rumor circulates that Italians buys then sells Spanish oil as their own. Who knows? Cordoba is known for its wines (which we drank copious amounts of) as well as its sherry. The local sherry recommended to us from the locals was the PX Dulce Delgado from Montilla-Moriles region. The area is located right at the base of the Sierra Nevada mountains and its rich limestone soil combined with the soaring heat make for the optimum conditions for the Pedro-xinene’nez grape that contributes to the dry and nutty flavor of the golden sherry. Initially for me it was quite strong but one adjust to its robust bite that blends perfectly with tapas. We happily drank our way through numerous bodegas tasting the many sherry varieties of the region. Salud!
I am a bit biased when it comes to Cordoba. It is one of my favorite cities in Spain with the other being San Sebastian. Both have their charms and sights but Cordoba with its Islamic Historic Centre is a recognized UNESCO World Heritage Site and is simply magnificent. The city exudes a noble pedigree that’s expressed in the iconic Mezquita Cathedral that is hailed as the “emblem of the Spanish Caliphate” and its no wonder it’s considered one of the finest representatives of Islamic architecture in Europe. Volumes have been written about this stunning architectural wonder but what struck me was the magnitude of the engineering knowledge brought to Europe in the late eighth century. Thanks to the exiled Prince Adb al Rahman from Damascus who used the Middle Eastern mastery to recreate a Umayyad dynasty in the newly conquered lands of Iberia. The sheer beauty and refined elegance of the Moorish design lent a serenity to the cathedral design and certainly elevated my spirit. In contrast, the Renaissance cathedral built in the center of the mosque reflected many styles from Mudejar to Baroque and stood in stark contrast to the restrained architectural grace of the earlier aesthetic.
Comments Off on Franz in the City, Vienna, Austria, 10-2015
A calmness settles over Vienna in autumn. The swarms of tourists have returned home and the locals receive a reprieve before the onslaught of winter winds blow in from the Puszta steppe. Franz and I had travelled to the former capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire to attend the exhibition Transducing the City. My son and his colleague were showing their video installation Hidden Noise. It was a creative evening and following the opening enjoyed ourselves at a Viennese wine bar called Vinothek W-Einkehr. The wine selections were extensive and the company unsurpassed. The intimate bar exudes a distinct Viennese vibe that cannot be recreated anywhere else in the world. The following day our destination was one of my favorite spots in Vienna the bustling Naschmarkt (food market). This open air market has been operating near the same spot since 1780 and has grown from providing local fruits, vegetables, and meat products to offering an immense array of the finest imported products from throughout the world. It is the United Nations of open air food markets. And the vendors themselves reflect that with a diversity of nationalities represented at the exotic food stalls throughout the Naschmarkt. The fragrant spices, colorful displays, and savory aromas entice visitors from far away making this market a true foodie’s delight. Vienna is nourishing for artistic endeavors as well as for the appetite.
Comments Off on Shetland Island Sojourn, Ponies, Sheep and Seabirds, Scotland, 8-2015
We arrive in the northernmost islands of Great Britain and explore the explore the area south of the main town Lerwick, where we encounter an endearing “Agricultural Show” with lots of ponies, sheep, dogs, etc. We then proceed to explore the prehistoric history of the islands at Jarlshof.
We head north to the “end of the world” in Unst.
Hillswick is a charming little town in the West of the Shetland Islands.
Our first day and a city tour of beautiful Tbilisi.
We drive to the Kakheti region and learn how to bake bread and taste some wonderful Georgian wines.
We drive to the semi-desert at the Azerbaijani border and visit an ancient monastery.
We drive to the cave town of Vardzia and spend the night in an old Ottoman castle.
We visit the famous church in Mtskheta, then back in Tbilisi we look at 5000 year old jewelry and have a wonderful meal at the top of the city.
We drive along the Georgian military highway to the town of Stepantsminda on the Russian border in the high Caucasus.
Our last trip takes us to a famous church in Kutaisi, a beautiful cave and then to the Black Sea resort town of Batumi. Back in Tbilisi we celebrate our farewell with traditional dances.
Comments Off on Splendid Strasbourg, France, 6-2015
The pronoun and verb “I do” were the best two words that I have ever spoken in my life. This simple phrase has brought me happiness for over 25 years and were spoken to the love of my life, Franz. In celebration of our silver anniversary we wanted to visit a city that exuded romantic ambience where we could reflect on the past, revel in the present, and plan for the future. We chose the quaint but sophisticated city of Strasbourg, France. And an excellent choice it was. This ancient city is situated on the shores of the Ill river near the Rhein that separates France and Germany. It also serves as the seat of the European Parliament as well as the capital of the winemaking Alsace region. At the heart of the city center is the Grande Ile which is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Strasbourg not only lived up to but exceeded our expectations. From our Hotel Cathédrale suite in the historic center we had an amazing view of the 1439 year old Gothic Notre-Dame Cathedral with its single soaring spire and intricate details of the ornamentation. The evening luminance of the stained glass windows was stunning. We enjoyed our time strolling the cobbled streets lined with Rheinland black and white timbered facades, colorful flower boxes, and flowing canals. A boat tour we took highlighted the eclectic mixture of architectural styles ranging from the sleek Parliament to the charming La Petite France that reflected the historical influences from the Romans to Martin Luther and the present.
This blending of Franco/Germanic culture is deliciously expressed in the food and wines of the region. We indulged in the typical Alsatian dishes including Choucroute garnie (sauerkraut, potato, and pork), La Tarte Flambée (German/French pizza), Jambon En Croute (ham, onions, leeks, with a dough crust) and Beerawecka (Alsatian pastry) and of course, my favorite Crème Brûlée. Yummy! Wines bars and Winstube (wine & food) are plentiful and we imbibed our fair share of fermented grape juice. The province of the Alsace Lorraine wines are renown for their white wines that include Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Sylvaner and Muscat and a light bodied red Pinot Noir. For our anniversary dinner we chose a small restaurant in the La Petite France quarter called La Cambuse that specializes in Vietnamese/German fusion cuisine. And pleased we were. The restaurant has a nautical theme and the seafood selections were exquisite. We enjoyed the house speciality which is a Vietnamese ravioli stuffed with sea bream in a fragment cilantro broth. Heavenly. It was a memorable evening, with my wonderful husband, in a beautiful place. I look forward to the next 25 years.
