Category Archives: Germany

Kristmas in Kempten, Allgäu, Germany, 12-2016

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Joy to the world
It’s Christmas time
Let earth receive its blessings!
Christmas was in the air with the scents of freshly baked gingerbread, spiced cider, and sizzling sausages as I strolled the Christmas market of the 2000 year old city of Kempten, Germany. Seasonal decorations adorned the shops and walkways and there were plenty of visitors enjoying the festive mood despite the low December temperatures. But anticipating the cold we were bundled up for an afternoon of exploring the inner city of the capital of the oldest “urban settlement” in Germany.
 
Kempten is located in Southwest Germany in the Allgäu region of Schwabia along the Iller River. It is about an hour’s drive away from Bregenz. And it has a glorious history boasting both Celtic and Roman roots and was first mentioned by the Greek geographer Strabon in 50 BC by its former name Cambodunum. Around 700 AD the monastery Kempten Abbey was built by the influential Benedictine monks Magnus von Füssen and Theodor from the Abbey of Saint Gall in nearby Switzerland. It was the first in the region and grew to be the most influential in the Frankish Kingdom. The church unfortunately suffered from invasion by the Magyars and the Thirty Years War and had to be rebuilt in 1652  becoming the new St. Lorenz Basilica. The highlights in the city include the Archaeological Park Cambodunum and the interactive underground chapel called the Erasmuskapelle.
 
The Christmas market served up all of the usual holiday fare such as Flammkuchen, a sort of Alsatian Pizza and many varieties of sausages. Even better for us they had a gourmet section as well where the local cooking school served up gourmet goodies such as duck with red cabbage laced with chocolate. We toasted yuletide greetings with glasses of sparkling Prosecco and had a dessert of Kaiserschmarren, which is a sweet pancake like dish served with plum compote and topped with powdered sugar. Super yummy! What a lovely way to wait for Christmas Day.

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Wild Fasnacht Parade In Lindau, Germany, 1-2016

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Narri! Narro! This was the call and response of the “fool’s greeting” that filled the streets of the medieval island town of Lindau Germany on the shores of Lake Constance. This ancient city that dates from 882 was filled with over 12,000 costumed parade participants for the largest Narrentreffen to celebrate the Schwabian-Alemannic Fasnacht. The Fasnacht or Carnival processions that take place throughout Southern Germany are considered as “the most original, wild, and authentic customs of the Fasnacht period” and due to their cultural and historical importance were recognized in 2014 by UNESCO as a Germany Nationwide Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage.

This popular meeting is known to attract some of the best Fasnacht clubs throughout Bavaria, Switzerland, and Austria and they congregate on the island every fifteen years to join in this tradition that began in the Middle Ages. The celebration takes place before the Christian Lent that in earlier times allowed the masses to indulge in eating, drinking, and other temptations before the time of abstinence commenced. Witches, devils, wooden masked creatures, brass bands, and drill teams paraded through the maze of streets wielding and snapping whips, brooms, sabers, and pig bladders to a captivated audience as they rang, banged, and clanged to the brass band and drum beats. We satisfied our stomachs with savory and sweets treats topped off with some tasty prosecco. A good pagan time was had by all!

http://www.binder-world.com/en/News-Press/News-Updates/Fasnacht


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Cross Country Skiing In The Neighborhood, The Bodensee Region Austria & Germany, 1- 2016

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It’s a beautiful day in the skiing neighborhood
A beautiful day in the neighborhood
Will it be mine?
Could it be mine?

Lindenberg, Germany

It’s a beautiful day in the Bodensee neighborhood and perfect for cross country skiing. Within thirty minutes from Bregenz we have access to numerous cross country trails in nearby Germany in the Schwabian Allgäu region. A favorite trail is in village of Lindenberg and during the week there are relatively few people and the tracks run through both high moor and forested prealpine areas. After skiing there are several nearby restaurants that serve up hearty Allgäu cuisine such as regional meats and bread dumplings, Kässpätzle, a type of dumpling topped with alpine cheese and crispy onions, and Maultaschen similar to a ravioli stuffed with a variety of fillings. A favorite lunch choice is the Gasthof Pension Hirsch in Scheffau and for cake and coffee the timeless Gasthof Löwen in Offenbach is run by a friendly couple who serve up an assortment of the BEST cakes ever! The cherry black forest cake is to die for. It is a must when visiting the region.

http://www.outdooractive.com/en/cross-country-ski-trails/lindenberg-im-allgaeu/cross-country-ski-trails-in-lindenberg-im-allgaeu/1415829/
http://www.gasthof-pension-hirsch.de

Sulzberg, Austria

The quaint village of Sulzberg, Austria is another favorite cross country destination in our Bodensee neighborhood. Located about 20 minutes from Bregenz it is home to a Nordic Sports Park complete with kilometers of training trails, competition tracks, and panoramic trails. The Salzburg Ski Club makes this their home and the tracks are meticulously maintained. As for after skiing sweets, the local Gasthof Alpenblick makes Franz’s favorite dessert the not so politically correct Moor im Hemd which is a speciality chocolate cake made with almonds in a water bath. Really yummy!

https://translate.google.at/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.sulzberg.at/&prev=search

Below is the making of an authentic Moor im Hemd made by Franz’s dear Aunt Ursula.

Bürserberg / Brandnertal, Austria

The snow glistened in the February morning sun and the air was warm due to the Föhn winds that blew from the South across the Alps and brought spring-like conditions to Bürserberg in the Brandnertal ski area. Franz and I were blessed with clear skies and the view from the high plateau Tschengla was spectacular. We had received fresh snow the night before so the 20 kilometers of cross country trails were well groomed and were waiting for us lucky skiers. The Rona Panoramaloipen on the plateau was created for the European Youth Olympics in 2015 and it now consists of three shorter trails and is simply breathtaking. The trail loops around ancient stone monuments that were constructed on “vein stars” that formed neolithic stone circles where the early astronomers observed the movement of the night sky. The site was also used as a calendar and a ritual site with the stones believed to host powerful energy fields and were of significance to the ancients.
http://www.vorarlberg-alpenregion.at/en/brandnertal/winter/off-the-piste/cross-country-skiing/
http://www.vorarlberg-alpenregion.at/en/brandnertal/culinary-culture/stonecircles/

Kleinwalsertal, Austria

The loud clanking of bells from the harness of a pair of strong mountain horses as they pulled a sled along the wintery landscape of the Kleinwalsertal fit the alpine scenery perfectly. Franz and I had come to this lovely valley to spend a few days cross country skiing. We had been here several times for downhill skiing and hiking, but this time we had come specifically to cross country ski. The area has three main trails covering about 50 kilometers from flat to vertical depending upon your level of expertise and they are very well maintained. The first day we explored the Steinbock trail an, easy to medium track beginning in Mittelberg with Franz completing the entire loop of about 15 km. The second day we began in Hirschegg Au on the Küren-Wäldele-Egg trail that is considered a medium to difficult run with Franz finishing about 7 km of the loop. Both trails ran through picture perfect terrain and it was balm for the soul.
http://www.kleinwalsertal.com/en/holiday-worlds/activities/crosscountry

We had booked the last available lodging in the entire valley and were lucky to have found a place in Hirschegg at the Apartments Hilbrand. The studio was charming and the host friendly. We also enjoyed a memorable meal at Haller’s Hotel Restaurant and the cuisine lived up to its stellar reputation. All in all we had a wonderful weekend and we are sure to visit this enchanting valley again and again.
http://www.hilbrand-walser.de/
http://www.hallers.at

It was a beautiful day in the skiing neighborhood…

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Meersburg Wine Festival, Meersburg, Germany, 9-2015

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The brass band beats rocked the medieval Meersburg city center and the appreciative crowds clapped and danced to the rhythms of the familiar folk tunes. Lederhosen and dirndl clad young people merrily cheered to the autumn season with plenty of drink and song. Franz and I also indulged in the successful grape harvest and partook in imbibing the young wines of 2015. The October day was picture perfect and we had arrived via the ferry boat from Bregenz to visit the yearly Meersburg Wine Festival in Germany. We came to taste the best of the Bodensee regional wine offerings that included a Müller Thurgau, Rose, Prosecco, and our favorite a Baden Bodensee Spätburgunder. We paired our libations with yummy bacon wrapped dates, Flammkuchen (German pizza), and a finger lickin’ oxen sandwich. The ancient city is home to two castles that date to 630 and is aptly called “the castle on the sea” and is surrounded by the rich soils of the Bodensee that produce the famous wine grapes of the Weissherbst (white fall) that the region is known for. We enjoyed a great day spent groovin’ to the brass vibes and mingling with the locals. We’ll be back next autumn.

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Flower Day In May, Island of Mainau, Germany, 5-2015

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Tip toe from the garden
By the garden of the willow tree
And tiptoe through the tulips with me

That’s what Franz and I did this past weekend in Mainau Germany. Although we walked rather than tiptoed, nevertheless we welcomed the return of spring on the little flower island on the German side of Lake Constance. Every April thru September Mainau celebrates its annual flower festival. This year’s 2015 theme was Journey through Europe and the vibrant floral displays throughout the plantings reflected the different European regions. We reveled in the burst of colors and scents and particularly enjoyed the orchid show. Beautiful blooms for a beauteous day!

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Medieval Meersburg, Germany, 1-2015

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It was a blustery and clear January day on the Bodensee and Franz and I wanted to get out and enjoy the crisp air on our beautiful lake. We embarked upon a small excursion to nearby Meersburg, Germany about thirty miles west of Bregenz. The city is surrounded by the rich soils of the Bodensee that nourishes the white wine grapes known as Weissherbst that the region is known for. Every autumn the city hosts a festival that celebrates the bounty of the harvest and the wines cultivated on the shores on the Bodensee such as Riesling, Traminer, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir. http://www.meersburg.de/en/Tourism/Events/Wine-Festival

The medieval city is home to two castles hence the name “Burg on the sea.” The formidable Old Castle was begun in the seventh century by the Merovingian King Dagobert I and the New Castle was erected in the eighteenth century as the residence of the Bishop of Constance but today is a museum. We took a tour of the rustic Old Castle and immersed ourselves in the glory days of the past. The Burg was wonderfully restored and held informative and interesting collections of armory, medieval equipment and tools, household items, and furniture. In earlier times the castle with its breathtaking lake view was the residence from 1841-1848 of the famous German poet Annette von Droste-Hülshoff. Today the the castle boasts a wonderful collection of her letters and writings. Her former study is filled with her personal items, books and writing implements. and offers the visitor insight into her inspiration and creative process.
http://www.meersburg.de/en/Tourism/Sights-and-attractions/Town-portrait

We enjoyed a delicious lunch at an old restaurant in the inner city called the Weinstube Löwen that has a stately wooden interior and served up traditional Southern Germany cuisine. We indulged in a tasty Gänsekeule (goose leg) with a Semmelknödel (bread dumpling) and topped with a mild gravy. What a yummy way to end a super day! http://www.hotel-loewen-meersburg.de

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Fairytale Christmas Market in Nürnberg, Germany, 12-2014

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Bratwurst roasting on an open fire
Krampus nipping at your nose
Weihnachtslieder being sung by a Chor
And Volk dressed up like Nürnberger

Ho ho ho! It’s Christmas time in Nürnberg Germany. Franz and I were feeling in a Christmas mood and our Weinachtsmarkt (Christmas market) in Bregenz was charming, but a bit on the small side. So we ventured out to visit the world famous 400 year old Christkindlesmarkt in Bavaria Germany in the medieval city of Nürnberg.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fleisch_Bridge

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The spicy aroma of gingerbread, roasted sugar coated nuts, and fruit loaves permeated the air as we entered the northern entrance of the fortified city walls of the old town of Nürnberg where the Nürnberger Castle has prominently resided since 1105. Within the courtyard a beautiful créche exhibition greeted visitors and we admired the fine handiwork of the contributing artisans. A festive sight greeted us as we made our way through the town center with around 200 wooden stalls covered with red and white cloth that had earned it the name “Little Town from Wood and Cloth” filled with traditional German Christmas offerings such as straw ornaments, golden angels, candles, wooden toys, and small figures made from dried plums. Only speciality goods from the region are allowed in the market with no modern made products permitted and the high standards are reflected in the selections. The food stalls were filled with all kinds of tempting tidbits to tempt the palate such as the yummy Nürnberg sausages with sweet Glühwein (spiced wine).
http://www.christkindlesmarkt.de/en/christmas-market/welcome-to-the-nuremberg-christkindlesmarkt-1.2371262

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The medieval city sparkled in the early evening light that added a magical quality to the fairytale setting. The Pegnitz River flows through the town with the Fleischbrücke (meat bridge) arching gracefully over the waterway making for a romantic setting. Along the cobbled streets horses pulled carriages harkening back to the days of long ago. As we walked in the inner city we admired a few of the famed houses of worship including the Evangelical Lutheran Church St. Lorenz completed in 1400 and one of the town’s oldest churches St. Sebaldus that dates from 1273-75. In the market area we came upon brick Gothic Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) built between 1352-1362 that houses a famed collection of medieval art and the acclaimed Männleinlaufen (mechanical clock) that depicts the Holy Roman Golden Bull of 1356. In front of the church sits the 1369 German Renaissance Schöner Brunnen (beautiful fountain) that is famous for its stunning ironwork demonstrated in the intricate grill latticework surrounding the fountain. Legend has it that if a visitor touches a brass ring inserted within the grillwork it will bring them good luck.
http://tourismus.nuernberg.de/en/sightseeing/places-of-interest/churches/d/nuernberg-kirchen-frauenkirche.htmlhttp://www.beautifuliron.com/beautiful_fountain.htm

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For our evening meal we randomly chose a traditional restaurant in the historic center that served regional German food. And boy were we lucky! The restaurants name is Zum Spiessgesellen and we devoured a Franken speciality of the house called a Schäufele (small shovel) which is a tender pork shoulder served with Knödel (potato dumpling). We paired it with a Franconia Spätburgunder from Würzburg a mild red wine made from Portugieser and Pinot Noir grapes. The evening was particularly jolly with a brass band that came in to play some tunes for the guests. A wonderful meal, in a wonderful city, and a wonderful time of year.
http://spiessgeselle.de/Zum_Spiessgesellen/Erleben.html

schaeufele

So it’s been said many times many ways Merry Christmas to you!

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