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The Port in Portugal Porto, Portugal, 8-2017
Strolling along the River Douro on a balmy September evening one could almost inhale the feeling of Porto, Portugal. The royal blue sky framed the darkened slopes that met at the water’s edge. The star of the scene was the silhouette of the Dom Luis Bridge with its sparkling lights glimmering off the midnight blue water. This moment in time could not have gotten any better. Then it did. Because the real star, or satellite, of the show made its dramatic entrance. The gleaming full moon in all its lunar glory rose over the architecture and illuminated the landscape below. One could not helped being enthralled by the magnificence of the heavens as man has been since the beginning of time. This is the image of Porto that I have perched so elegantly on the banks of the Douro.
The evening began as stellar as it had ended. We started out on a dinner quest by hailing a river taxi to the opposite bank in the Afurada neighborhood that just oozed Portguese authenticity. Children played in the streets while the old people watched from the sidewalks and friends called out greetings to each other making for a vibrant street life. We found our restaurant destination the Casa do FC Porto na Afurada that came highly recommended by our host. The eatery is a local’s spot and known for serving up some of the best grilled fish and it’s also the choice for the avid soccer club fans of FC Porto. And do these fans eat well. The fresh seafood was prepared on the barbecue right in front of the restaurant and the combination of the old Porto vibe and succulent food made for a most memorable meal.
https://www.facebook.com/Casa-Fcporto-Dragoes-Da-Afurada-333141153503209/?rf=213989482092479
The influence that the Catholic church had and still does is quite apparent throughout the city. Within the historic center the must see sights abound such as the the Sào Francisco Church (1383) with its striking Gothic architecture and its dramatic Baroque interior. Other religious sites we took in were the soaring 75 meter Clèrigos Tower that’s hard to miss on the skyline. And situated on the opposite bank in Gaia perches the 16th century Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar whose church and cloisters display a circular columned design that is unique in Portugal. We also took a tour which offered us insight not only into the monastery as a religious institution but to its defensive importance due to its geographic situation that was and still is used by the military.
http://www.localporto.com/gothic-st-francis-church-porto
http://www.porto-tourism.com/porto-attractions/historical-monuments-and-edifices-in-porto/clerigos-tower.html
www.visitportugal.com/en/content/mosteiro-da-serra-do-pilar
The nature of the city is expressed in its humble fishing and working boats that possess great character despite their peeling paint and are moored by frayed lines strewn with brown kelp along the river estuary. The worn watercraft lean beached among the algae rocks and lobster cages when the tidal action lays bare the debris from the working harbor. And the pungent air reeks of decaying fish and the natural smells of the ocean. Birds of all kinds forage in the shallow waters where it flows out to the Atlantic Ocean . The aging fleet is as colorful as the people who work at the water’s edge whose lives revolve around the harvesting of the oceans bounty and the transportation of the all important Port wine. The most recognizable of the watercraft is the traditional Portuguese wooden Rabelo boat. This elegant yet durable boat was used for centuries to transport people and goods along the Duoro River. But by far its most precious cargo was the product of what this city was named for its delicious Port wine.
Surreal Seradina-Bedolina Archeology Park, Capo di Ponte, Italy, 8-2017
The half moon shone radiant against the sapphire sky as the morning sun lit the sandstone peaks across the valley. As I paused to take in the rugged grandeur of the Seradina Bedolina Municipal Archaeological Park and wondered how many sunrises have these mountains seen and by whom? Questions such as these is what lured Franz and I to this ancient site in Capo di Ponte, Italy. The Camonica Valley holds more than 150 engraved rocks with inscriptions and a thousand figures that depict the long ago dwellers in their daily and religious life as well as in more aggressive activities such as in hunting and fighting. The engravings span from the Late Prehistoric through the Roman Age with the majority dating from the Iron Age. The most famous engravings include the “Rock of the Map” and the symbol of Lombardia, the Rosa Camuna.
http://www.archeocamuni.it/seradinabedolina_en.html
The petroglyphs are found on the western side of the valley and the conditions created from the sunny mountainside allows for an interesting combination of succulents and cacti along with a variety of alpine flowers set among the low growing evergreens. We were amazed at the access of the park that was unregulated with limited signage warnings but for the most part visitors were free to roam the park at will. We even came upon a group camping site with children running about despite it being set among the ancient petroglyphs.
To gain a more in depth knowledge of the area we ventured to the commune of Capo di Ponti where the Camonica Valley National Museum of Prehistory is located. The museum was well worth the time and included an extensive collection of engraved steles and menhirs along with informative and interactive exhibitions that are a treasure trove for history buffs like me. Each floor focused on a theme ranging from the sacred and religious sites to material culture offering the viewer a greater understanding of the region’s earlier inhabitants and a fascinating look into their past.
Beauteous Bienno, Italy, 8-2017
Strolling up the thoroughfare into the old town center of Bienno, Italy my eye was caught by a stately house whose gate was slightly ajar and I could glimpse the garden that lay beyond. My curiosity got the best of me and I just had to have a peek. Inside revealed a lovely courtyard with manicured lawn and hedges. As I admired the setting an older gentlemen greeted me and I excused myself for being a “looky loo” explaining that I had been enticed by the beauty of his home. He was gracious and invited me in and gave me a tour of his garden and patio. Workers were busy readying the premises for a family party the next day. And what event it was going to be. Inside the patio he had an automated spit to roast an entire pig with enough seating and settings for a small army. He told me the following day his large family was coming to visit for the beginning of the arts and culture festival the Mostra Mercado that is held every August and is the highlight of their summer season.
The friendly conversation with the local gentleman was our introduction to Bienno and this hospitality continued as Franz and I wandered the ancient walkways of what has been voted “One of Italy’s most beautiful cities.” We took in the fine ironwork and colorful facades and found the shop owners welcoming and their products were not of the typical variety found in many tourist towns. One such establishment was a traditional leather maker who not only fashioned custom shoes but created scabbard sheaths for swords. Another fascinating building was the Forge Workshop whose facade displayed the artistic work that this “iron born” town had been known for in supplying tools and weaponry. Overlooking the village is a fifteenth century water mill that is still in use and was manned by an elderly couple that sell the freshly ground products. Bienno brought back to life its proud past and is a testament to its amiable people and their creative craftwork all nestled into the fairytale mountain valley.
Captivating Carvings Val Camonica, Italy, 8-2017
The turquoise sky was cloudless and the temperature was climbing as Franz and I made our way into the forest canopy in the Camonica Valley near Brescia, Italy. The coolness of the air beneath the trees combined with the early morning solitude lent a feeling that we were stepping back into time. And we were for these mountains had been formed during the Ice Age when glaciers cut out the deep valleys and polished the gray sandstone. It was upon these rocks that the early valley dwellers pecked away at the hard stone to leave their markings on the surfaces. Over time they left an extraordinary prehistoric record that we had come to see as we made our way into the Naquane National Park of Rock Engravings. This historic area was chosen as the first recognized UNESCO World Heritage Site established in Italy in 1955.
The Naquane Park covers over 14 hectares of rock art land and holds 104 engraved rocks whose chronology ranges from the Neolithic (5th-4th millennium BCE) to the Iron Age (1st millennium BCE) when the region was inhabited by the Camunni and and it is these people who are best represented. The stone surfaces tell the story of man’s inhabitation in the valley including a thousand human stick figures found in numerous postures portraying them from hunting to fighting and even dancing. Village life is depicted in daily living situations and is complete with scenes of religious life ranging from what is interpreted as shamanistic rituals and divine like images. Camunian inscriptions and symbolic symbols are found as well. Taken as a whole it is no wonder that the park was chosen over the incredible historical treasures that this country holds and attests to the singular importance of the landmark .
The Camonica Valley has more than its share of historical significance as well as an array of good food and wine that rivals any in Italy, but there is one downside to the region and that is the northern access into the valley itself. Franz and I even came up with a new table for us which we dubbed the “barfometer.” Unfortunately the road we took rated a 10. Our chosen route represented on google maps did not mirror the reality of the seemingly endless WINDING road. At one point I came close to giving up on our destination but with Franz’s optimistic “we’re almost there” I persevered and was happy that I had. Just a heads up unless one drives from Milan the road in is not the most “motion friendly” route.
http://www.vallecamonicaunesco.it/parco-naquane.php
Despite the challenging drive the Valley was fascinating. We stayed at a local Airbnb the Valtili’-Camera Blu in Berzo Demo which had just opened. The family was gracious, the breakfast superb, the rooms were modern and tastefully decorated, and the location overlooking the Po River offered easy access to the major routes. The nearby Ristorante Pizzeria Piz Tri served up well priced and delicious local food and with a smile too. Our sojourn to Val Camonica was a blast to the prehistoric past but with good eats. This Natives kind of journey.
http://www.ristorantepiztri.it/?utm_source=tripadvisor&utm_medium=referral
Illuminating Ingolstadt, Germany, 7-2017
The imposing towers of the Bavarian Army Museum were striking against the azure skies over the Bavarian town of Ingolstadt, Germany. Looming medieval fortress walls enclosed the city center with typical Bavarian architecture mixed with Gothic buildings making for a nice Sunday afternoon stroll. Inglostadtians have Louis VII The Duke of Bavaria to thank for building the New Castle that combined both French and Gothic styles that grace the town today. The city dates back to 806 where it was first mentioned by Charlemagne. Its other claims to fame are that it is the home to Victor Frankenstein where he created his monster in Mary Shelley’s 1818 famous novel as well as being home to the original secret society The Illuminati that was formed in the 18th century. Back in its day from 1392-1447 it was also the seat of power and was capital of the Duchy of Bavaria-Inglostadt. But today it is a quaint city resting quietly along the shores of the Danube and as a friend assured me is a wonderful place to raise a family but for singles it is far from ideal. Regardless of its lack of thriving nightlife it was a wonderful way for this ole married couple to spend the afternoon.
http://www.ingolstadt-tourismus.de/en/home.html
The Green City of Besancon, France, 6-2017
The young artist sported a jaunty beret and focused intently on his street mural. His concrete canvas displayed an array of bright colors and geometric shapes that swirled as if in motion. The composition literally caught the eye in that it featured a prominent eye peering out from the lower half of his work. Franz and “eye” sat at the nearby sidewalk cafe sipping our morning coffee enjoying his creative process. We had come to celebrate our 27th wedding anniversary in the charming city of Besançon, France and to partake in its culinary delights and sights.
Besançon lies near the Jura Mountains on the border of Switzerland in the region of Bourgogne-Franche-Comte. The city is the capital of Doubs and has long been of strategic importance dating to 58 BC when it was first mentioned in the writings of Julius Caesar’s Commentari de Bello Gallico. Its name has Celtic origins and today it has been called “the first green city of France” and is lauded as a “Town of Art and of History.” I would only add AND delicious food to this illustrious title. Green spaces and sculptural art made from fine materials to found objects meld the modern with the past within the inner city. Historic architecture adorns the lively district and at its heart presides its crowning glory the Citadel of Besançon which is a recognized UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Citadel and its fortifications occupy a commanding position on the Mont Saint Ètienne and at its feet the emerald Doubs River meanders in a horseshoe course through the forested valley below. The fortress historically has served an important military function for the area and deservedly is Besançon’s top tourist destination. We wiled away many hours exploring the 11 hectares site whose paths wind through natural landscape and tended gardens making for a pleasureable walk up to its walls. A moat surrounds the citadel and baboons frolic and groom themselves in the enclosed area. The compound also holds a natural history museum and zoo the La Citadell de Besançon that boasts a collection of 400 animals from 70 species in and around the stronghold’s walls. There are also two other museums of note on the grounds. One is the Museum of the Comte Franche region that focuses on the Citadel and its architectural history and has a captivating multimedia presentation that brings the past to life. The second is the Musee de la Resistance et de la Desportation whose exhibitions relay the heroic yet sobering regional history of the French Resistance during WWII and is a must see for WWII history buffs.
http://www.citadelle.com/en/home.html
As the afternoon waned we strolled down the Mont Saint Ètienne to the iconic Porte Noire triumphal arch that leads to the entrance of the Cathedral of Saint John of Besançon. The 11th century Romanesque church exudes a massive quality but once inside the elegant arches and soaring ceilings blend together creating a harmonious whole. As we admired the interior space the afternoon sun lit the stained glass windows bathing the nave with a glowing brillance. It was illuminating.
Passing time in the pious place we sauntered onto the impressive Astronomical Clock of the Besançon Cathedral. Intricate pendulums, weights, and a plethora of moving parts that record not only time but dates, leap years, moon and tide cycles. It even records an event that happens once every 250 years! It has been described as “one of the most complicated horological devices in the world.” The craftsmanship of this stellar time piece stands as a testament to Besançon’s past reputation as the French clockmaking and watch capital. It counters the adage “Clock watchers never seem to be having a good time” because this converted clock watcher sure did.
http://www.horloge-astronomique-besancon.fr/en/
Time to talk about food (one of my favorite subjects). You know a restaurant is good is when you visit it two nights in a row. And we did just that at the Le Poker d’As where we celebrated our anniversary and reveled in its classic French menu. The inviting place is family run and situated away from the main tourist eateries and during our visits we seemed to be the only non locals in the place. The first night we enjoyed the aspargus soup and goose pate for starters followed by curry chicken and veal and ended our meal with a variation of desserts artfully decorated with an anniversary greeting. The second night we came back for the Coq au vin and ended with the creamiest of creme broulée. Both nights we paired our dishes with champagne and wines from Burgundy. Exceptional food and wine is what brought us to Besançon and its charm and culture will certainly beckon us again and again.
https://www.lesmeilleursrestos.fr/accueil/56-le-poker-d-as-Besançon.html
Amazing Amsterdam, Netherlands, 5-2017
A shout and a blurred flash sped past as a suited man atop his bicycle stopped me in my tracks as I stepped off the sidewalk without bothering to look out for the whizzing wonders. Not a good move. One simply cannot escape the hordes of bikers who do in fact own the streets of Amsterdam. After several near misses I trained myself to be on the lookout for the two wheelers, whether racing or leisurely pedaling down the avenues. I came across one lovely cruiser as a woman rode past singing opera alongside the canals and bridges in the fading evening light. Such is Amsterdam. Cultured yet gritty a bit like the Rijksmuseum and the red light district. It is a city of many facets, flowers, fabulous food, and friendly folks.
https://www.iamsterdam.com/en/see-and-do
And did I mention food? (my favorite subject of course) In this department Amsterdam does not disappoint. After a long day we opted for a local eatery and our expectation were not high. But were we surprised. Strolling our Jordan district neighborhood we happened upon the Noordwest. The place was stylish but informal and had we not made a reservation for the following night I would have happily returned. I chose a tender baked Dover Sole with almonds in a creamy beurre sauce and Franz inhaled a succulent duck breast with a beetroot macadamia jus. The service was friendly and the food was fresh. What a find!
The next evening we ventured out farther afield to the restaurant Chez Georges that had lured us by its cozy French interior and tempting menu. For starters I began with scallops in a hollandaise sauce and a goose liver tureen followed by our main course of succulent lamb with a duxelle of mushroom, nuts, and herbs. Franz opted for the five course menu of wild duck with venison, followed by a rabbit ratatouille, stuffed guinea fowl, and a venison steak with a cognac chestnut sauce. And naturally our meal was accompanied by a rich Burgundy wine. Dessert was a creme brulé and a Chez Georges speciality. The chef definitely lived up to the review’s expectations. It was a euro well spent for an intimate dining experience.
http://www.restaurantnoordwest.nl/en/
http://www.chez-georges.nl
One never tires of Amsterdam but beyond the requisite tours to the Van Gogh, the Rijksmuseum, and the Anne Frank House there is so much more to explore. One museum that had been on my list was the stunning EYE Film Museum. The museum graces the north bank waterfront with striking silhouette. Designed by the the prestigious Delugan Meissi architects the masterpiece houses a collection that boasts 37,000 film titles, 60,000 posters, 700,000 photographs, and 20,000 books. Just experiencing the interior itself is “eye opening” and if only for that its worth a visit. During our tour we viewed the film The Other Side of Hope and it was just one outstanding example of the works represented in their cutting edge collection. The story delved into the paths of Syrian refugees and a Finnish travelling salesman who cross in Kaurismäki’s latest deadpan work. This EYE is defintely worth a visit and I will surely be back to enjoy this architectural gem that graces the exquisite Netherlandish waterfront.
Keukenhof Gardens
A light rain was falling and tiny droplets of water reflected light from the delicate petals of the rows upon rows of tulips that adorned the spectacular gardens. I was in floral heaven. Tulips of every color, variety, shape, and smell assailed my senses and this former florist was happy as a daisy for I was visiting the 2017 Keukenhof Flower Show just outside Amsterdam, Holland. I thought I had seen many kinds of tulips in my day but I was just a beginner. The show boasts over 7 million tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths and covers 32 hectares just bursting with beautiful blooms. My late seasonal visit combined with the weather turned out to be perfect due to the wet conditions that deterred visitors and I was lucky to have had such solitude for hours as the gardens remained quiet and crowd free.
The inspiration and theme for Keukenhof 2017 was Dutch design. Floral masterpieces were recreated throughout the grounds in the numerous pavillons, historical gardens, and most spectacularly in the inspirational gardens. Famous Dutch works such as Mondrian’s De Stijl abstracts in red, blue, and white and Vermeer’s Girl with the Pearl Earring in blue and white including Delftware pottery were brought to life in this artistic celebration of spring. What a glorious way to spend a day and this is one floral extravaganza that I will most certainly be back again to experience.
https://www.holland.com/global/press/article/keukenhof-theme-2017-dutch-design.htm
The Tranquility of the Hortus Botanicus Garden Amsterdam, Holland
The oasis of floral beauty was balm to my soul as I meandered through the quiet paths of the Hortus Botanicus Gardens in Amsterdam. One simply forgets that the busy Platage district is just outside this relaxing refuge. Nurtured within its walls is one of the oldest botanic gardens in the world dating from 1638 and holds over 4000 plant species including historical elements, speciality greenhouses, and a fantastic butterfly greenhouse. Although the garden covers only 1.2 ha it holds a diverse collection from all the continents and from seven different climate zones. The collection is “scientifically curated” and boasts a medicinal herb garden cultivated since 1638 and other “special plant groupings such as cycads, South African plants, palms, conservatory plants, Fuchsia, and carnivorous plants.” The crowning glory of the collection is the Eastern Cape giant cycad that is over 300 years old and is simply enormous. The de hortus Garden is one small but mighty jewel that is a must see for any gardener or admirer alike.
Road Trip In The Southwest USA, 4-2017
The blend of deep rust brushed with streaks of ocher right out of mother nature’s iron oxide paintbox were striking against the volcanic slopes of the San Juan Mountains. My sister and I made our way slowly along the breathtaking Million Dollar Highway on our route to the National Historic Landmark town of Silverton, Colorado. The town once a former silver mining camp located on the Silverton Caldera is one of the highest in the US at 9,318 feet. It had been the traditional summer home of the Ute Tribe (Nuchu) that had inhabited this high country since 1000 A.D. but this waste change with the economic forces of the mining boom. The road built in the 1880’s was an engineering feat at the time and it followed the Durango to Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad track and is by many considered one of the “most scenic drives in the USA.” The byway continued to wind up the steep passes of Coal Bank (10,640 ft), and Molas Pass (10.970 ft) and the snowpack glimmered in the sun. Clear roads at this elevation is always a concern in early April and fortunately the road was dry and the skies blue as we climbed toward the peak. This route is known for its sheer cliffs and narrow lanes that can be dangerous with jaw clenching hairpins turns, stretches with no railings, and combined with unpredictable weather makes for a truly memorable drive. We took in the surrounding slopes that bore the traces of ski touring and cross country runs along with the tell tale snowmobile tracks before making our descent.
http://www.dangerousroads.org/north-america/usa/635-million-dollar-highway-usa.html
The million dollar view into the valley below revealed a quaint Victorian mining town with colorful facades that highlighted its “wild west” past. Silverton is nestled in one of the worlds richest mineral supervolcanos that had erupted 27 million years ago. The vast wealth extracted from its caldera included gold, silver, copper, etc. and was the source of prosperity for the region that began in 1861 and ended in 1991. With the closing of its mines Silverton and surrounding towns have had to deal with the political, economic, and environmental complications stemming from years of mining pollution and controversial superfund support. Tragically in 2015 the Gold King waste water spill released toxic chemicals into the Silverton and Animas Rivers and what followed was an environmental disaster. The region has its work cut out for them in contending with the mining waste contamination but despite these complex problems Silverton is promoting high country tourism and touting the recreational and sporting opportunities of this alpine landscape.
http://silvertonmountain.com/town/
http://fortune.com/2017/01/07/colorado-mine-spill-animas-river/
The giving and receiving of directions out of the Navajo Reservation can be confusing if not downright impossible for non residents. Often they are issued with a nod of the head and pursued lips with the chin pointing the visitor in the right direction. Sometimes a hand wave is included towards a notable landmark such a water tower or chapter house then slowly one is told to proceed down the second graded road then turn left at the fence after the cornfield etc .…..It can be quite a challenge making one’s way around Navajo Country. I had come back on my yearly visit to Northeastern Arizona around Canyon to Chelly to spend time with my family after traveling through the dramatic landscape of New Mexico following my sojourn in Southwestern Colorado. Visiting the clan along with a requisite pilgrimage to Canyon de Chelly National Monument to pay my respects to Spider Rock is balm to this Native’s soul.
Kristmas in Kempten, Allgäu, Germany, 12-2016
Joy to the world
It’s Christmas time
Let earth receive its blessings!
Christmas was in the air with the scents of freshly baked gingerbread, spiced cider, and sizzling sausages as I strolled the Christmas market of the 2000 year old city of Kempten, Germany. Seasonal decorations adorned the shops and walkways and there were plenty of visitors enjoying the festive mood despite the low December temperatures. But anticipating the cold we were bundled up for an afternoon of exploring the inner city of the capital of the oldest “urban settlement” in Germany.
Kempten is located in Southwest Germany in the Allgäu region of Schwabia along the Iller River. It is about an hour’s drive away from Bregenz. And it has a glorious history boasting both Celtic and Roman roots and was first mentioned by the Greek geographer Strabon in 50 BC by its former name Cambodunum. Around 700 AD the monastery Kempten Abbey was built by the influential Benedictine monks Magnus von Füssen and Theodor from the Abbey of Saint Gall in nearby Switzerland. It was the first in the region and grew to be the most influential in the Frankish Kingdom. The church unfortunately suffered from invasion by the Magyars and the Thirty Years War and had to be rebuilt in 1652 becoming the new St. Lorenz Basilica. The highlights in the city include the Archaeological Park Cambodunum and the interactive underground chapel called the Erasmuskapelle.
The Christmas market served up all of the usual holiday fare such as Flammkuchen, a sort of Alsatian Pizza and many varieties of sausages. Even better for us they had a gourmet section as well where the local cooking school served up gourmet goodies such as duck with red cabbage laced with chocolate. We toasted yuletide greetings with glasses of sparkling Prosecco and had a dessert of Kaiserschmarren, which is a sweet pancake like dish served with plum compote and topped with powdered sugar. Super yummy! What a lovely way to wait for Christmas Day.