High above Lake Constance in Eichenberg, Austria, 5-2014

This morning we awoke to such a lovely spring day and it was quite warm for mid May. We decided to venture out on our local mountain the Pfänder and to explore a few well worn trails above our house beginning at the small village of Eichenberg. But most importantly it was around noon mealtime so naturally we had to begin our walk with lunch at one of the best local butchers around these parts called the Fesslerhof. If you are a meat eater, as we are, the Austrian butcher experience is not to be missed. The Fesslerhof butchers only local animals from our region that have been raised on the grasses of the area and that is full of all the necessary and good nutrition to raise healthy and tasty animals to sell at their high quality Metzgerei. We all had wonderful choices from the menu such as sausages, Leberkäse (formed meat loaf of beef, pork, bacon and onions) and a wurst salad which is sliced bologna with pickles, onions, local cheese, topped with a vinegar dressing. We washed it down with a slightly fermented cider called Most and Franz with a refreshing Radler which is a thirst quenching beer and lemonade mixture. What way to begin a walk in the local neighborhood!

Eichenberg has a lovely small church called Heiliger Bernhard (St. Bernard’s) that is situated in the center of the village overlooking the lake and situated amongst a few very good restaurants that serve wonderful cuisine from the region. One notable restaurant is the four star Schönblick (beautiful view) that we frequent on special occasions especially when we have out of town guests because the view of the entire Bodensee region and the lake does not get any better than from the patio. The menu and wine list is wonderful as well. I highly recommend it and don’t forget to eat their specialty dessert platter that tastes as good as it looks.

There are many walks that begin from Eichenberg. The walks are quite easy and accessible and the trails are clearly marked and well maintained. They take the leisurely stroller through fields of flowers and cow pastures, rustic barns, and traditional Bregenz farm houses with window boxes lined with cascading geraniums. And small streams flow down the mountain as they make their way to empty into the Bodensee waiting below. Trees, birds, bees, blowing wind, chicken, crickets, mooing cows and bells are the sights and sounds that leave a relaxing impression on the lucky hiker. Now that’s my way to spend a leisurely afternoon high above Lake Constance.
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Sailing on Lake Constance, Austria, 9-13

 Lake Constance is as close to my heart as the sea is to the fisherman whose livelihood depends on it. I grew up a few hundred meters from its shores, and it seems like I lived in the water during the summer months during my childhood. The lake is shared by Austria, Germany, and Switzerland, and the Rhine has its first river delta, a bird sanctuary, on the Austrian shoreline. Besides its natural beauty the lake is home to all kinds of water sports. Fortunately the amount of power boats is strictly limited so that sailing enthusiasts make up the majority of boaters.

In Bregenz it is possible to have a small sailboat without being a member of a yacht club, the city owns a meadow on the lake, and anybody can apply for a spot there. I received mine after waiting for a year, and then looked for a sailboat that would suit my needs. I found it in an older but sturdy Laser II that can be sailed singlehandedly or with two people, if there’s enough wind. With a sailing area of under 12 square meters it keeps below the legal requirement for having a sailing license. So now I can take my bicycle and ride down to the boat for an enjoyable cruise on my favorite lake. Come with me!

Bodensee

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Winter Paradise Bregenz, Austria, 12-2012

Bregenz is the capital of the most western Austrian state of Vorarlberg. It lies on the eastern shore of Lake Constance, a lake shared also by Germany and Switzerland. The lake functions as a heater in the winter, so often there is little snow in Bregenz during that season. Sometimes, however, Bregenz is inundated with lots of “white gold”, and then the local mountain, the Pfänder (1064 m)  is dressed up in an amazing white outfit and becomes a playground for the local people, skiing, ski touring, sledding, snow shoeing and hiking being the sports of choice.

_DSC5435There is a 3.5 km ski run down the mountain, the “Schlauch” (hose in English), where a downhill race was run for many years. As a kid my dream was to ski the Schlauch in “Schuss” position, with my poles tucked in for speed. Unfortunately I was not a very good skier back then, but when I found myself on top of the run one sunny morning – after returning to Bregenz decades later – I decided it was now or never.

Pfänder Snow

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Bödele, Austria 11-2013


Bödele-Schwarzenberg (700-1,460m) is a small ski area complete with nostalgic alpine ski huts in the Vorarlberg state of Austria. It’s a wonderful place for a day’s ski excursion for both downhill, cross country skiing, ski touring, or snowshoeing. Its location is at the beginning of the charming Bregenzerwald Valley which is world famous for its award winning alpine cheese, characteristic wooden farm houses, distinctive dialect, and strong cultural farming traditions. Its setting is nothing short of breathtaking. The resort looks down into the Rhine Valley and one can view the Swiss, German, and Austrian lands that lay below. The alpine village of Schwarzenberg is located not too far from the ski area. It is famous for its cheese and schnaps festival. But its real claim to fame is its long autumn tradition of the farmers in full regional dress bringing down their cow herds from the cheese making alm huts and parading them through the old streets. The cows are brightly adorned with bells and flower wreaths and the cow that has given the most milk during the summer is especially decorated and is given much applause by the appreciative tourists that line the streets. This cultural tradition is representative of the Austrian mountain life and a highlight for any tourist. In addition, the city of Dornbirn with its numerous cultural offerings can be found within a short drive from the mountain as well.

 

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