Category Archives: Bodensee

Thrilling Turandot, Bregenzer Festspiele, Austria, 8-2016

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Turandot stageThe summer storm threatened to fall all day. As the evening came the skies lightened and we were graced with a brilliant sunset splashed across Lake Constance. Franz and I were thrilled because we had tickets to the Bregenzer Festspiele in our city of Bregenz, Austria. This years lavish opera was Giacomo Puccini’s Turandot. The story set in China is of the Princess Turandot who had enthralled many princely suitors. To win her hand they had to solve three riddles but if failed they were beheaded. The Prince Calaf falls for the Princess and solves the riddles but she refuses him. He then offers that if she can find out his name by morning he will die but if not she will his betrothed. The dramatic narrative combined with the light rain only added to the flowing beauty of the vocal performances and the Viennese Symphonic Orchestra who played to perfection on the floating stage.Turandot sceneThe opera performers were spectacular and the highlight of the evening, the aria Nessum dormas was met with much applause. The stage setting and lighting with the backdrop of the great wall of China complete with oversized terra cotta soldiers and Chinese lanterns adorning the moving platform was breathtaking. The costume design was lavish as well as were all aspects of the production from the fire jugglers and martial artists to the stellar acrobatics and dragons. What a wonderful operatic evening we had. I can’t wait until next year’s staging of Georges Bizet’s Carmen.

https://bregenzerfestspiele.com/en

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Wild Fasnacht Parade In Lindau, Germany, 1-2016

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Narri! Narro! This was the call and response of the “fool’s greeting” that filled the streets of the medieval island town of Lindau Germany on the shores of Lake Constance. This ancient city that dates from 882 was filled with over 12,000 costumed parade participants for the largest Narrentreffen to celebrate the Schwabian-Alemannic Fasnacht. The Fasnacht or Carnival processions that take place throughout Southern Germany are considered as “the most original, wild, and authentic customs of the Fasnacht period” and due to their cultural and historical importance were recognized in 2014 by UNESCO as a Germany Nationwide Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage.

This popular meeting is known to attract some of the best Fasnacht clubs throughout Bavaria, Switzerland, and Austria and they congregate on the island every fifteen years to join in this tradition that began in the Middle Ages. The celebration takes place before the Christian Lent that in earlier times allowed the masses to indulge in eating, drinking, and other temptations before the time of abstinence commenced. Witches, devils, wooden masked creatures, brass bands, and drill teams paraded through the maze of streets wielding and snapping whips, brooms, sabers, and pig bladders to a captivated audience as they rang, banged, and clanged to the brass band and drum beats. We satisfied our stomachs with savory and sweets treats topped off with some tasty prosecco. A good pagan time was had by all!

http://www.binder-world.com/en/News-Press/News-Updates/Fasnacht


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Cross Country Skiing In The Neighborhood, The Bodensee Region Austria & Germany, 1- 2016

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It’s a beautiful day in the skiing neighborhood
A beautiful day in the neighborhood
Will it be mine?
Could it be mine?

Lindenberg, Germany

It’s a beautiful day in the Bodensee neighborhood and perfect for cross country skiing. Within thirty minutes from Bregenz we have access to numerous cross country trails in nearby Germany in the Schwabian Allgäu region. A favorite trail is in village of Lindenberg and during the week there are relatively few people and the tracks run through both high moor and forested prealpine areas. After skiing there are several nearby restaurants that serve up hearty Allgäu cuisine such as regional meats and bread dumplings, Kässpätzle, a type of dumpling topped with alpine cheese and crispy onions, and Maultaschen similar to a ravioli stuffed with a variety of fillings. A favorite lunch choice is the Gasthof Pension Hirsch in Scheffau and for cake and coffee the timeless Gasthof Löwen in Offenbach is run by a friendly couple who serve up an assortment of the BEST cakes ever! The cherry black forest cake is to die for. It is a must when visiting the region.

http://www.outdooractive.com/en/cross-country-ski-trails/lindenberg-im-allgaeu/cross-country-ski-trails-in-lindenberg-im-allgaeu/1415829/
http://www.gasthof-pension-hirsch.de

Sulzberg, Austria

The quaint village of Sulzberg, Austria is another favorite cross country destination in our Bodensee neighborhood. Located about 20 minutes from Bregenz it is home to a Nordic Sports Park complete with kilometers of training trails, competition tracks, and panoramic trails. The Salzburg Ski Club makes this their home and the tracks are meticulously maintained. As for after skiing sweets, the local Gasthof Alpenblick makes Franz’s favorite dessert the not so politically correct Moor im Hemd which is a speciality chocolate cake made with almonds in a water bath. Really yummy!

https://translate.google.at/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.sulzberg.at/&prev=search

Below is the making of an authentic Moor im Hemd made by Franz’s dear Aunt Ursula.

Bürserberg / Brandnertal, Austria

The snow glistened in the February morning sun and the air was warm due to the Föhn winds that blew from the South across the Alps and brought spring-like conditions to Bürserberg in the Brandnertal ski area. Franz and I were blessed with clear skies and the view from the high plateau Tschengla was spectacular. We had received fresh snow the night before so the 20 kilometers of cross country trails were well groomed and were waiting for us lucky skiers. The Rona Panoramaloipen on the plateau was created for the European Youth Olympics in 2015 and it now consists of three shorter trails and is simply breathtaking. The trail loops around ancient stone monuments that were constructed on “vein stars” that formed neolithic stone circles where the early astronomers observed the movement of the night sky. The site was also used as a calendar and a ritual site with the stones believed to host powerful energy fields and were of significance to the ancients.
http://www.vorarlberg-alpenregion.at/en/brandnertal/winter/off-the-piste/cross-country-skiing/
http://www.vorarlberg-alpenregion.at/en/brandnertal/culinary-culture/stonecircles/

Kleinwalsertal, Austria

The loud clanking of bells from the harness of a pair of strong mountain horses as they pulled a sled along the wintery landscape of the Kleinwalsertal fit the alpine scenery perfectly. Franz and I had come to this lovely valley to spend a few days cross country skiing. We had been here several times for downhill skiing and hiking, but this time we had come specifically to cross country ski. The area has three main trails covering about 50 kilometers from flat to vertical depending upon your level of expertise and they are very well maintained. The first day we explored the Steinbock trail an, easy to medium track beginning in Mittelberg with Franz completing the entire loop of about 15 km. The second day we began in Hirschegg Au on the Küren-Wäldele-Egg trail that is considered a medium to difficult run with Franz finishing about 7 km of the loop. Both trails ran through picture perfect terrain and it was balm for the soul.
http://www.kleinwalsertal.com/en/holiday-worlds/activities/crosscountry

We had booked the last available lodging in the entire valley and were lucky to have found a place in Hirschegg at the Apartments Hilbrand. The studio was charming and the host friendly. We also enjoyed a memorable meal at Haller’s Hotel Restaurant and the cuisine lived up to its stellar reputation. All in all we had a wonderful weekend and we are sure to visit this enchanting valley again and again.
http://www.hilbrand-walser.de/
http://www.hallers.at

It was a beautiful day in the skiing neighborhood…

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Meersburg Wine Festival, Meersburg, Germany, 9-2015

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The brass band beats rocked the medieval Meersburg city center and the appreciative crowds clapped and danced to the rhythms of the familiar folk tunes. Lederhosen and dirndl clad young people merrily cheered to the autumn season with plenty of drink and song. Franz and I also indulged in the successful grape harvest and partook in imbibing the young wines of 2015. The October day was picture perfect and we had arrived via the ferry boat from Bregenz to visit the yearly Meersburg Wine Festival in Germany. We came to taste the best of the Bodensee regional wine offerings that included a Müller Thurgau, Rose, Prosecco, and our favorite a Baden Bodensee Spätburgunder. We paired our libations with yummy bacon wrapped dates, Flammkuchen (German pizza), and a finger lickin’ oxen sandwich. The ancient city is home to two castles that date to 630 and is aptly called “the castle on the sea” and is surrounded by the rich soils of the Bodensee that produce the famous wine grapes of the Weissherbst (white fall) that the region is known for. We enjoyed a great day spent groovin’ to the brass vibes and mingling with the locals. We’ll be back next autumn.

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Flower Day In May, Island of Mainau, Germany, 5-2015

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Tip toe from the garden
By the garden of the willow tree
And tiptoe through the tulips with me

That’s what Franz and I did this past weekend in Mainau Germany. Although we walked rather than tiptoed, nevertheless we welcomed the return of spring on the little flower island on the German side of Lake Constance. Every April thru September Mainau celebrates its annual flower festival. This year’s 2015 theme was Journey through Europe and the vibrant floral displays throughout the plantings reflected the different European regions. We reveled in the burst of colors and scents and particularly enjoyed the orchid show. Beautiful blooms for a beauteous day!

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Medieval Meersburg, Germany, 1-2015

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It was a blustery and clear January day on the Bodensee and Franz and I wanted to get out and enjoy the crisp air on our beautiful lake. We embarked upon a small excursion to nearby Meersburg, Germany about thirty miles west of Bregenz. The city is surrounded by the rich soils of the Bodensee that nourishes the white wine grapes known as Weissherbst that the region is known for. Every autumn the city hosts a festival that celebrates the bounty of the harvest and the wines cultivated on the shores on the Bodensee such as Riesling, Traminer, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir. http://www.meersburg.de/en/Tourism/Events/Wine-Festival

The medieval city is home to two castles hence the name “Burg on the sea.” The formidable Old Castle was begun in the seventh century by the Merovingian King Dagobert I and the New Castle was erected in the eighteenth century as the residence of the Bishop of Constance but today is a museum. We took a tour of the rustic Old Castle and immersed ourselves in the glory days of the past. The Burg was wonderfully restored and held informative and interesting collections of armory, medieval equipment and tools, household items, and furniture. In earlier times the castle with its breathtaking lake view was the residence from 1841-1848 of the famous German poet Annette von Droste-Hülshoff. Today the the castle boasts a wonderful collection of her letters and writings. Her former study is filled with her personal items, books and writing implements. and offers the visitor insight into her inspiration and creative process.
http://www.meersburg.de/en/Tourism/Sights-and-attractions/Town-portrait

We enjoyed a delicious lunch at an old restaurant in the inner city called the Weinstube Löwen that has a stately wooden interior and served up traditional Southern Germany cuisine. We indulged in a tasty Gänsekeule (goose leg) with a Semmelknödel (bread dumpling) and topped with a mild gravy. What a yummy way to end a super day! http://www.hotel-loewen-meersburg.de

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Winter has arrived in Bregenz, Austria, 12-2014

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Long faces on December 25th, no white Christmas again! And the weather forecast was cryptic, definitely rain the following day, maybe a little snow, after that it could get warm again. And then to everybody’s surprise it started snowing on the 26th, and it kept on snowing with interruptions until the 29th. Then the heavens really opened their gates: it snowed for two days straight, in total over 1 meter (over 3 feet). I grew up in this town and don’t remember anything like it.

 

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Late Autumn Splendor on the Bodensee, Germany, 11-2014

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We awoke to the most glorious autumn day. The lighting was pristine, the skies were clear, and the air was fresh. It was a great day for a stroll on the Bodensee. We pulled out our maps of Lake Constance and set out to explore a wildlife preserve in nearby Germany to revel in the beautiful fall weather. The nature reserve is located on the Bodensee in the state of Baden-Württemberg and is made of of natural grassland and swampy reeds along the shores of the lake. The area is great for hiking and wildlife viewing. All kinds of year round and migrating birds inhabit the reed and its a great habitat for a variety of other small game as well such as squirrels, foxes, and deer.

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After hiking for some time we happened to eye the towering steeple of a distant church in the quaint town of Eriskirch surrounded by apple orchards. We came upon a charming local restaurant called the Mozartwirt and there we enjoyed a succulent duck meal with a delicious sauce served with bread and potato dumplings, baked apples, and accompanied with the ubiquitous German Blaukraut. I am normally not fond of red cabbage but this dish was super yummy! We spoke with the restaurant owner who told us that it was a secret recipe but we thought we had detected hints of cinnamon and cloves, nevertheless the cabbage paired well with the fowl and added a slightly sweet taste to our meal. I’m now a true believer and a staunch convert to freshly made Blaukraut. Superlecker! We paired our meal with a regional Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) and our meal was a perfect ending to a perfect crisp autumn walk along the shores of the Bodensee.

https://www.facebook.com/Mozartwirt

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Autumn Mood on the Rhine Delta, Austria, 9-2014

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It was the first day of autumn and my favorite time of year. I love the autumn foliage, migrating birds, the harvest, the wine festivals, and the coming truffle season. So in celebration of the first day of the fall season we took a leisurely stroll on the Rhine Delta where it spills out into Lake Constance to take in the migrating birds and the wild grasses. Lake Constance is shared by three countries, Austria, Germany, and Switzerland with the alps as a dramatic backdrop. It’s such a lovely time in our town nestled against the Pfänder mountain when the trees are just beginning to turn vibrant colors before the long winter months. It’s a time of plenty with the harvests in and the bounty of the summer months displayed in full splendor at the local markets filled with squash and pumpkins of all shapes, sizes and varieties. It’s also time for the Austrian Schlachtpartie when the local restaurants offer up a hearty faire of meat varieties such as deer and wild pig dishes served up with dumplings, vegetables and pumpkin soups.

The lake was quiet after the bustle of the summer months and the Bregenzer Festspiele Opera  and the tourists had gone home. The sailboaters have begun pulling their boats from the water and stored them for the winter and the last of the rowers made the best of the waning season’s weather. There is a lull before ski season begins so the city enjoys a quiet time during the autumn months. The lake fosters a wide variety of wildlife including 35 species of fish and 412 different species of birds as well as small game such as squirrels, rabbits, and deer. This time of year is a wonderful to view the migrating birds such as ducks, geese, loons, and the occasional stork as well as its permanent residents such as hawks, ducks, swans. The entire lake shore length is 273 kilometers, with 28 km of them in Austria. The lake is an essential drinking water source for the three countries as well as for the unique flora and fauna that rely upon a healthy lake ecosystem. So as the last strong rays of the autumn sun shone we enjoyed a quiet walk along the life giving shores of our lake.

http://www.bregenz.travel/en/vacation-in-bregenz/sights/nature/pfaender/

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The Magic Flute on Lake Constance, Austria, 7-2014

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The lilting music of Mozart wafts in the open windows of our house during the summer nights. If the breeze is particularly strong sometimes its almost too loud. Oh the sacrifices one must make for art! It’s summer in Bregenz and it’s festival time. And that means that the Viennese Symphonic Orchestra is back in town. Every summer the who’s who of classical music ascends on our small capital and the city is vibrant with cultural activities such as world music, dance, and theatre of all kinds are to be had here on Lake Constance. But the crowning glory of Bregenz is our world renowned floating lake opera the Bregenz Festspiele. This year’s opera was Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart’s The Magic Flute. And magic it was. The singing was heavenly, the stage spectacular, and the setting breathtaking.

Every two years the Festspiele stages a world class production that engages the top talent in the opera world and this year was no exception. The director for this elaborate production was David Pourtney with the stage designed by Johan Engles and the costumes and puppets designed by Marie-Jeanne Lecca. Together they created a vision of the fantasy world of Papagayo and Prince Tamino who set out on their quest to free Princess Pamino from Sarastro’s evil hands. The stage was a Shakespearean interpretation of dreams and nightmares complete with forests, monsters, rotating globes, pyrotechnics, and acrobatics. But cutting edge staging aside for me the outstanding performance by Soprano Daniela Fally as the Queen of the Night singing “Der Holle Rache” aria was the highlight of the evening and was simply superb. The power and sheer beauty of her voice was wonderful to behold as was all of the performers. The Bregenz Festspiele did Mozart proud with their staging of his iconic The Magic Flute. I look forward to the 2015 production of Giacomo Puccini’s Turandot.

http://bregenzerfestspiele.com/en/

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