Spring Skiing in Lech, Austria, 4-2014

Lech am Arlberg is arguably the most prestigious ski resort in the Alps. On one hand it is the Eldorado of deep powder snow, on the other a quiet winter Mecca where the royals and the super rich mingle undisturbed by paparazzi. To me it is a magical place where in the past I’ve rented an old hut without hot water and showers with twenty-five of my best friends every year, where I taught skiing as a student during holidays and semester breaks that enabled me to ski for 3 months every winter and I got paid doing it, where I’ve had countless deep powder free riding memories, where I came to every Christmas with my family when we lived in California, where I experienced the most amazing hospitality I’ve ever had on this planet, where I’ve got to know every single hotel owner in the many different places we stayed at, and where I still take friends from around the world because it is so special.

The ski area is connected with the neighboring towns of Warth and Zürs. A short ski bus ride away is the Alpe Rauz, from there a chairlift takes skiers into the area of St. Anton am Arlberg, which is in the neighboring state of Tyrol. A total of 94 cable cars and ski lifts create 340 km of groomed pistes and 200 km of deep powder runs. Modern skiing began here in the early 1900s with Hannes Schneider teaching his Arlberg technique.

IMG_4037The White Ring is the longest ski race in the world according to the Guinness Book of World Records. The race starts in Lech on top of the Rüfikopf and follows the ski run down to Zürs, the participants then take the lift up to the beginning of the Madloch, the infamous 5 km ski run down to Zug. A chair lift takes the entrants up the Kriegerhorn and the race course finishes back in Lech at the bottom of the Schlegelkopf.

 

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Winter Paradise Bregenz, Austria, 12-2012

Bregenz is the capital of the most western Austrian state of Vorarlberg. It lies on the eastern shore of Lake Constance, a lake shared also by Germany and Switzerland. The lake functions as a heater in the winter, so often there is little snow in Bregenz during that season. Sometimes, however, Bregenz is inundated with lots of “white gold”, and then the local mountain, the Pfänder (1064 m)  is dressed up in an amazing white outfit and becomes a playground for the local people, skiing, ski touring, sledding, snow shoeing and hiking being the sports of choice.

_DSC5435There is a 3.5 km ski run down the mountain, the “Schlauch” (hose in English), where a downhill race was run for many years. As a kid my dream was to ski the Schlauch in “Schuss” position, with my poles tucked in for speed. Unfortunately I was not a very good skier back then, but when I found myself on top of the run one sunny morning – after returning to Bregenz decades later – I decided it was now or never.

Pfänder Snow

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Ski Touring in the Silvretta, Austria, 2-2013


Bielerhöhe (2037m) is a mountain pass that connects the Austrian states of Vorarlberg and Tyrol near the Swiss border. It is located at the end of the Montafon valley, which was one of Hemingway’s favorite hangouts. It plays a big role in hydroelectric energy production, there are several dammed up lakes in the vicinity, all produce electricity. The highest peak of Vorarlberg, the Piz Buin (3312m), is very close and a favorite destination for mountain climbers. In the summer a winding road leads up to the pass but in the winter it is only reachable by cable car and shuttle bus. It is a very “James Bond like” experience to be shuttled through narrow tunnels and come out to a breathtaking mountain scenery in a picturesque Alpine setting. Two hotels at the pass provide the means for many to enjoy one of Vorarlberg’s great pastimes, ski touring.

Bielerhöhe
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Hochhäderich, Austria 12-2013


Hochhäderich(1,250-1,600m) is a small ski resort set in the lovely valley of the Bregenzerwald in Vorarlberg, Austria. The charming area has many options for winter and summer activities such as downhill skiing, sledding, horse sleighing, snowshoeing, walking, and hiking, The well groomed cross country trails traverse a distinct upland moor biosphere that includes plant species unique to this alpine environment. The landscape is dotted with rustic ski huts that serve up hearty mountain fare and warm Glühwein. The area is located near the lovely village of Hittisau that is known for its fine traditional wooden architecture, award winning cheese, and its distinctive Almwirtschaft which are the huts where they make the cheese in the summer months. The area is a great place to explore and enjoy the alpine lifestyle.

 

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