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Hieronymus Bosch, A Parade of Earthly Delights, Netherlands, 6-2016
Global Geneva, An International Hub, Switzerland 6-2016
The Sounds Of Summer, Schetteregg, Austria, 5-2016
The hills were alive once again with the sounds of buzzing bees, clanging cows, and running water. Wild alpine flowers were bursting with color and the fragrant scent mingled with the earthy cow paddies as Franz and I made our way up the Schetteregg mountain in the nearby Bregenzerwald. The summertime hiking season had begun. This day we explored the trails of the Schetteregg mountain that also has a cozy ski area in the winter. Our path was an easy hike and there was still snow in the higher elevations and we detected on the mountain side a small avalanche that had recently happened. As we descended we were drawn to a small mountain hut with brass band tunes that had wafted down our path and came upon a group of young men celebrating a bachelor party complete with barbecue, traditional Austrian attire and music. What a great idea. We enjoyed a lunch of alpine cheese, hearty bread, and song. It was just another happy day in the mountains.
Budapest, Our Foodie Destination Of The Year, Bocuse d’Or And More, Hungary, 5-2016
Slumming the Swiss Alps, Medelser Hut, Graubünden, Switzerland, 4-2016
As a fitting end to our ski season my friends and I from Vienna, Bregenz, and Zurich headed to the Canton of Graubünden (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graubünden) in Switzerland, where the local language spoken is Romansh. Near Disentis we began our three hour trek to the top of a ridge where the Medelser Hut sits prominently lording over the surrounding valleys (www.medelserhuette.ch). The weather was partially sunny and we all hoped for some bright days of sunshine. On the Saturday of our arrival there were several other parties who had spent one night and the following morning climbed to a nearby peak then headed on home. We planned on staying until Wednesday and from Sunday and we were the only guests. The couple that ran the hut named Petra and Thomas were from Southern Germany and they had just taken over the hut management six weeks earlier. This was a new experience for them to run a place where supplies and waste could only be transported by helicopter in the winter. Petra was a fantastic cook who also baked fresh bread and cakes, we were unexpectedly spoiled rotten.
We also learned from them how difficult it is to manage a hut like this. In the winter there is no running water, every drop of drinking water was from melted snow. It is one thing to read this on a website, yet another when one uses the washrooms and no faucet works. The toilets didn’t use water either, instead they had a three stage filtering system for the waste. In the mornings and the evenings two water bottles were placed at the sinks, so that the guests could brush their teeth. Any further hygiene was done outside. We take water for granted, especially in central Europe where we have non-chlorinated drinking water even in our toilets, some people view this as an amazing waste of our planet’s most valuable resource. The text below translates to: The snow of today is your tea of tomorrow.
The day after our arrival the weather had turned bad. Fog appeared and the sun was gone. In spite of the conditions, all the parties from the hut ate a 6 o’clock breakfast and headed out for the Piz Medel. Fortunately it had been clear during the night and the snow was very hard. We skied down a few hundred feet then put on our skins and began trekking up to the glacier and beyond. Due to the snow being frozen we used a tool that can best be described as a ski crampon. It provided us with a serrated knife like blade on each side of the binding that cuts into the ice to prevent sideways sliding. One of our teammates decided to take his off, and paid for it with an almost immediate fall and a face forward slide of 120 feet on a surface that resembled rough sand paper. Unfortunately his face showed the consequences for many days. Once we reached the glacier the fog enveloped us completely and threatened us to turn around due to lack of orientation. But we were lucky and the fog lifted, allowing us to see our destination despite the wind that was blowing stronger by the minute. To reach the cross on the peak it was necessary to navigate a precarious narrow ridge, with crampons providing additional grip. The face of the mountain had some beautiful packed powder in store for us. Unfortunately further down the expected “firn” – the top inch of frozen snow melted in our much anticipated descent – never came because of the cold temperature. But we had completed our first peak and happily trekked back up to the hut for an afternoon snack and a wonderful dinner.
The following day things turned even worse. We were situated on the continental “wind” divide, where the strong southern winds, sometimes coming from as far away as the Sahara, bring precipitation to the southern side, and the northern fronts bring rain and snow to the northern side of the Alps. As we looked down to either side of our eagle’s nest we could see the valley where we had come from had sunshine while we were skiing into the foggy abyss on the other side and into a snow storm. The snow had turned very soft, which made for a unique carving experience, more like surfing than skiing. At the bottom of the steep decline we headed towards the next peak but were forced to turn around after thirty minutes due to the lack of visibility and the increasing winds that blew fresh snow directly into our faces. We headed back up the steep ravine for more R&R and card playing at the hut. The last day was a carbon copy of the previous one. On Wednesday we said good bye to our gracious hosts and headed down into the valley. The wind was still blowing strong, only this time it was at our backs and we were headed down to the sunshine. It was amazing how much snow the wind had melted during the previous five days. We had to take off our skis many times and crossed a river just to make it back to our cars. Another year, another ski tour!
Andalusia, From Caliphate To Christianity, Spain, 3-2016
You gotta love the Spaniards. To be able to order a Filet de Lenguado with sautéed vegetables and a generous portion of mussels served in a fragrant broth at 11:30 at night was fantastic. Especially after our late flight to Malaga and having had difficulties in locating our hotel we had hopes of finding a snack but to our delight we enjoyed a fine dining experience. Food is but one of the reasons we are drawn back to España again and again. The Spaniards simply know how to enjoy life and embrace it in their daily rituals. My kind of people.
Malaga is a melting pot of cultures. This 2,800 year old city was founded by the seafaring Phoenicians around 770 BC and today has a bustling port with direct access to the sea and trade routes that have contributed to their rich cultural heritage and is reflected in their impressive architectural cityscape. In the early morning Franz and I climbed the hill that houses the iconic Alcazaba and we were greeted by the twittering of birds and slopes of withering cactus that resembled ghostly images of Don Quixote and conquistadors. The fortress sits right in the center of the historic city and was built in the 11th century by the Hammudid dynasty that built the Islamic Caliphate that reigned for 800 years in Europe but was captured during the Reconquista by the Catholic Monarchs Isabella and Ferdinand during the Siege of Malaga in 1487. The complex includes an inner and outer citadel, the remains of a Roman theatre, a military museum, and mosaic enclosed patios and gardens. The fortification offers commanding views of prominent landmarks such as the La Malagueta Bullring, the Renaissance Malaga Cathedral, and the harbor below filled with ships from throughout the world and in the far distance the coast of North Africa can be seen.
The dusk sky had streaks of pinks, grays, and blues graced with the occasional cloud that provided a spectacular backdrop for the Roman bridge crossing the Guadalquivir River leading to the Great Mosque of Cordoba. Adding further to the drama a full moon appeared high in the sky and was mirrored on the watery surface making for an picture perfect setting. It’s no wonder this famous bridge has appeared in numerous films including the latest Game of Thrones series.

The clanging of church bells summoned the Catholic faithful to Sunday mass in the neighborhood square as we entered the quirky cafe that became our home away from home breakfasting in the morning and nightcapping in the evening. As one enters the cafe the aroma of brewing coffee mingled with the sweet scent of fresh tomato puree on toasted bread topped with salty Iberian ham or “toasta” is super enticing. The people in town were friendly and we began a conservation with an interesting local couple. The young woman asked me a question that struck me as particularly insightful. She asked how I felt about visiting Spain given my Native American heritage and the history of Spanish colonialism in America. I was impressed with her perception and knowledge and we spent an enjoyable time connecting with this fascinating pair.
The food of Spain is as always SO GOOD! During our stay we had so many memorable meals of Iberian pork, seafood, fresh produce topped with local olive oil. The Andalusian plains are filled with olive trees dedicated to the growing and production of this delicious elixir. There is such abundance that a well known rumor circulates that Italians buys then sells Spanish oil as their own. Who knows? Cordoba is known for its wines (which we drank copious amounts of) as well as its sherry. The local sherry recommended to us from the locals was the PX Dulce Delgado from Montilla-Moriles region. The area is located right at the base of the Sierra Nevada mountains and its rich limestone soil combined with the soaring heat make for the optimum conditions for the Pedro-xinene’nez grape that contributes to the dry and nutty flavor of the golden sherry. Initially for me it was quite strong but one adjust to its robust bite that blends perfectly with tapas. We happily drank our way through numerous bodegas tasting the many sherry varieties of the region. Salud!
I am a bit biased when it comes to Cordoba. It is one of my favorite cities in Spain with the other being San Sebastian. Both have their charms and sights but Cordoba with its Islamic Historic Centre is a recognized UNESCO World Heritage Site and is simply magnificent. The city exudes a noble pedigree that’s expressed in the iconic Mezquita Cathedral that is hailed as the “emblem of the Spanish Caliphate” and its no wonder it’s considered one of the finest representatives of Islamic architecture in Europe. Volumes have been written about this stunning architectural wonder but what struck me was the magnitude of the engineering knowledge brought to Europe in the late eighth century. Thanks to the exiled Prince Adb al Rahman from Damascus who used the Middle Eastern mastery to recreate a Umayyad dynasty in the newly conquered lands of Iberia. The sheer beauty and refined elegance of the Moorish design lent a serenity to the cathedral design and certainly elevated my spirit. In contrast, the Renaissance cathedral built in the center of the mosque reflected many styles from Mudejar to Baroque and stood in stark contrast to the restrained architectural grace of the earlier aesthetic.
Solitude on the Hoher Freschen, Vorarlberg, Austria, 3-2016
The recent snowstorms prepared a winter wonderland for a pristine ski tour. My friend Kurt and I fetched our skis and skinned it up to the top of the Hoher Freschen, a picturesque mountain high above the Rhine Valley. Our route began at the bottom of the Laterns ski area and we trekked up 2000 vertical feet to the Nobspitze just above the top of the highest ski lift.
From the peak in the far distance we could see our destination. After removing our skins we skied down to a lower plateau where our final ascent began. The valley was completely silent and we were the only skiers on the entire mountain and I cherished the solitude of the amazing surroundings. Climbing for two more hours we finally reached the top and it felt like we were much closer to a higher power perched at the edge of the snowy cliffs. Taking in the view and a snack we bundled up and headed back down to the bustle of the ski area. On my way back home these peaceful images were still embedded in my mind.
Skiing The Top Of The Alps, Courmayeur, Italy, 2-2016
The light spot at the end of the tunnel grew larger as we completed the last 7 Miles from France into Italy. The Mont Blanc tunnel from Chamonix to Courmayeur saved us from a long drive around the highest mountains of the Alps. The sunset view over the Aosta valley was breathtaking, but we had only deep powder in mind. My son Stefan joined me to ski some of the most scenic areas in Europe, including France’s largest glacier, the Mer de Glace, the sea of ice.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mer_de_Glace
Courmayeur is a quaint town at the end of the Aosta valley, a family oriented ski resort. But it is also a magnet for free riders from around the world. We were not disappointed! More than two feet of powder had just fallen the night before we got there and all we had to do was follow the guys with the long fat skis and avalanche packs to the top of the ski area, where two tiny metal gondolas brought you up to the edge of the sky, like sardines packed for their final delivery.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Courmayeur
Huge bowls on either side beckoned with steep descents, we chose left at first, then right on our second trip to the top. Well equipped with our own avalanche gear, transceiver, shovel, probe and airbag we dove into the deep powder and the ravines, Stefan always charging ahead. At the end of the day two tired but happy snow warriors ended up at the restaurant where we came out of the forest, only to find a suckling pig roasting on an open fire. A couple of beers and some pork made us the happiest people alive!
On the second day we continued our quest to find unchartered territory. It had gotten warmer and we had to work harder. A long descent at the boundary of the resort with the snow getting stickier by the minute at the bottom was our last hurrah for the day.
The grand finale on day three was the guided tour through the Vallée Blanche from the Punta Helbronner down to Chamonix, on the Mer de Glace. Two cable cars with revolving cabins take you up to a spectacular 11,358 ft, with views across the glacier to the Aiguille du Midi, a sharp needle close to the highest mountain of the Alps, the Mont Blanc, or Monte Bianco, its peak shared by France and Italy. The “White Mountain” stands 1272 ft taller than Mount Whitney, the highest mountain of the continental USA, at 15,777 ft.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pointe_Helbronner
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mont_Blanc
Our charming and seasoned mountain guide Mario Ogliengo provided our small international group with transceivers and climbing harnesses. These are especially important, because they provide the means for rescuers to pull you out of a crevasse if necessary. Crevasses are an ever present danger on glaciers, one can never be too careful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvjUUgJgxJ4
The 20 km (13 mi) long tour provided us with amazing scenery, a bit of powder, and a day of feeling transported to another world. Dive with us into the abyss of rock and ice.
The Bregenz Fasching Parade, Austria, 2-2016
Ore! Ore! cries filled the air of the 2016 Bregenz Fasching Parade that hailed the end of the abundance and gluttony of Carnival season. The weeks highlights began with “Fat Thursday” followed by the Sunday parade with drill teams, brass bands, costumed people, and decorated vehicles of all kinds. The grand finale took place on Rose Monday and the inner city was alive with activity before Ash Wednesday that marked the official end of revelry and Lent began the time of fasting and reflection until Easter Sunday. Fasching season went fast and until next year Ore Ore!






