A shout and a blurred flash sped past as a suited man atop his bicycle stopped me in my tracks as I stepped off the sidewalk without bothering to look out for the whizzing wonders. Not a good move. One simply cannot escape the hordes of bikers who do in fact own the streets of Amsterdam. After several near misses I trained myself to be on the lookout for the two wheelers, whether racing or leisurely pedaling down the avenues. I came across one lovely cruiser as a woman rode past singing opera alongside the canals and bridges in the fading evening light. Such is Amsterdam. Cultured yet gritty a bit like the Rijksmuseum and the red light district. It is a city of many facets, flowers, fabulous food, and friendly folks.
And did I mention food? (my favorite subject of course) In this department Amsterdam does not disappoint. After a long day we opted for a local eatery and our expectation were not high. But were we surprised. Strolling our Jordan district neighborhood we happened upon the Noordwest. The place was stylish but informal and had we not made a reservation for the following night I would have happily returned. I chose a tender baked Dover Sole with almonds in a creamy beurre sauce and Franz inhaled a succulent duck breast with a beetroot macadamia jus. The service was friendly and the food was fresh. What a find!
The next evening we ventured out farther afield to the restaurant Chez Georges that had lured us by its cozy French interior and tempting menu. For starters I began with scallops in a hollandaise sauce and a goose liver tureen followed by our main course of succulent lamb with a duxelle of mushroom, nuts, and herbs. Franz opted for the five course menu of wild duck with venison, followed by a rabbit ratatouille, stuffed guinea fowl, and a venison steak with a cognac chestnut sauce. And naturally our meal was accompanied by a rich Burgundy wine. Dessert was a creme brulé and a Chez Georges speciality. The chef definitely lived up to the review’s expectations. It was a euro well spent for an intimate dining experience. http://www.restaurantnoordwest.nl/en/ http://www.chez-georges.nl
One never tires of Amsterdam but beyond the requisite tours to the Van Gogh, the Rijksmuseum, and the Anne Frank House there is so much more to explore. One museum that had been on my list was the stunning EYE Film Museum. The museum graces the north bank waterfront with striking silhouette. Designed by the the prestigious Delugan Meissi architects the masterpiece houses a collection that boasts 37,000 film titles, 60,000 posters, 700,000 photographs, and 20,000 books. Just experiencing the interior itself is “eye opening” and if only for that its worth a visit. During our tour we viewed the film The Other Side of Hope and it was just one outstanding example of the works represented in their cutting edge collection.The story delved into the paths of Syrian refugees and a Finnish travelling salesman who cross in Kaurismäki’s latest deadpan work. This EYE is defintely worth a visit and I will surely be back to enjoy this architectural gem that graces the exquisite Netherlandish waterfront.
A light rain was falling and tiny droplets of water reflected light from the delicate petals of the rows upon rows of tulips that adorned the spectacular gardens. I was in floral heaven. Tulips of every color, variety, shape, and smell assailed my senses and this former florist was happy as a daisy for I was visiting the 2017 Keukenhof Flower Show just outside Amsterdam, Holland. I thought I had seen many kinds of tulips in my day but I was just a beginner. The show boasts over 7 million tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths and covers 32 hectares just bursting with beautiful blooms. My late seasonal visit combined with the weather turned out to be perfect due to the wet conditions that deterred visitors and I was lucky to have had such solitude for hours as the gardens remained quiet and crowd free.
The inspiration and theme for Keukenhof 2017 was Dutch design. Floral masterpieces were recreated throughout the grounds in the numerous pavillons, historical gardens, and most spectacularly in the inspirational gardens. Famous Dutch works such as Mondrian’s De Stijl abstracts in red, blue, and white and Vermeer’s Girl with the Pearl Earring in blue and white including Delftware pottery were brought to life in this artistic celebration of spring. What a glorious way to spend a day and this is one floral extravaganza that I will most certainly be back again to experience.
The Tranquility of the Hortus Botanicus Garden Amsterdam, Holland
The oasis of floral beauty was balm to my soul as I meandered through the quiet paths of the Hortus Botanicus Gardens in Amsterdam. One simply forgets that the busy Platage district is just outside this relaxing refuge. Nurtured within its walls is one of the oldest botanic gardens in the world dating from 1638 and holds over 4000 plant species including historical elements, speciality greenhouses, and a fantastic butterfly greenhouse. Although the garden covers only 1.2 ha it holds a diverse collection from all the continents and from seven different climate zones. The collection is “scientifically curated” and boasts a medicinal herb garden cultivated since 1638 and other “special plant groupings such as cycads, South African plants, palms, conservatory plants, Fuchsia, and carnivorous plants.” The crowning glory of the collection is the Eastern Cape giant cycad that is over 300 years old and is simply enormous. The de hortus Garden is one small but mighty jewel that is a must see for any gardener or admirer alike.
The blend of deep rust brushed with streaks of ocher right out of mother nature’s iron oxide paintbox were striking against the volcanic slopes of the San Juan Mountains. My sister and I made our way slowly along the breathtaking Million Dollar Highway on our route to the National Historic Landmark town of Silverton, Colorado. The town once a former silver mining camp located on the Silverton Caldera is one of the highest in the US at 9,318 feet. It had been the traditional summer home of the Ute Tribe (Nuchu) that had inhabited this high country since 1000 A.D. but this waste change with the economic forces of the mining boom. The road built in the 1880’s was an engineering feat at the time and it followed the Durango to Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad track and is by many considered one of the “most scenic drives in the USA.” The byway continued to wind up the steep passes of Coal Bank (10,640 ft), and Molas Pass (10.970 ft) and the snowpack glimmered in the sun. Clear roads at this elevation is always a concern in early April and fortunately the road was dry and the skies blue as we climbed toward the peak. This route is known for its sheer cliffs and narrow lanes that can be dangerous with jaw clenching hairpins turns, stretches with no railings, and combined with unpredictable weather makes for a truly memorable drive. We took in the surrounding slopes that bore the traces of ski touring and cross country runs along with the tell tale snowmobile tracks before making our descent.
The million dollar view into the valley below revealed a quaint Victorian mining town with colorful facades that highlighted its “wild west” past. Silverton is nestled in one of the worlds richest mineral supervolcanos that had erupted 27 million years ago. The vast wealth extracted from its caldera included gold, silver, copper, etc. and was the source of prosperity for the region that began in 1861 and ended in 1991. With the closing of its mines Silverton and surrounding towns have had to deal with the political, economic, and environmental complications stemming from years of mining pollution and controversial superfund support. Tragically in 2015 the Gold King waste water spill released toxic chemicals into the Silverton and Animas Rivers and what followed was an environmental disaster. The region has its work cut out for them in contending with the mining waste contamination but despite these complex problems Silverton is promoting high country tourism and touting the recreational and sporting opportunities of this alpine landscape.
The giving and receiving of directions out of the Navajo Reservation can be confusing if not downright impossible for non residents. Often they are issued with a nod of the head and pursued lips with the chin pointing the visitor in the right direction. Sometimes a hand wave is included towards a notable landmark such a water tower or chapter house then slowly one is told to proceed down the second graded road then turn left at the fence after the cornfield etc .…..It can be quite a challenge making one’s way around Navajo Country. I had come back on my yearly visit to Northeastern Arizona around Canyon to Chelly to spend time with my family after traveling through the dramatic landscape of New Mexico following my sojourn in Southwestern Colorado. Visiting the clan along with a requisite pilgrimage to Canyon de Chelly National Monument to pay my respects to Spider Rock is balm to this Native’s soul.
The cry of an unfamiliar bird awoke me. Looking out of the motor home I realized that we were not in Austria anymore. My son Stefan and I had flown half way across the world to the remote territory in the Northwest of Canada in the wilds of the Yukon. The view outside was stunning as we had parked at the edge of a seemingly endless frozen body of water called Lake Atlin with snowy mountains on the horizon as far as the eye could see. The bird turned out to be a large bald eagle with its recognizable dark brown body and a white head and it was majestic. We were lucky to catch some spectacular footage up close of this formidable bird of prey at the beginning of our third movie of our Canadian sojourn.
My son Stefan and I had decided to take a special adventure trip together to celebrate my 60th and his 25th birthday organised by Furtenbach Adventures. Our original destination was heli-skiing in Japan but it was canceled unexpectledly and instead we chose the other side of the planet. The itinerary was a very different type of trip, rather than hotels we travelled in large motor homes with two people per vehicle with the advantage being that we had the option to go where the weather and the snow were most optimal.
We flew into Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon and began our journey there. Our small caravan consisted of three motor homes with five participants and our Austrian guide Harald. After our group stocked up with supplies we drove south on the scenic Alaskan Highway into British Columbia. We had changed from our original destination, the Haines Pass and were lucky that the weather was much better in Atlin, and that the local Atlin Heli Sports was able to accommodate us. After arriving Harry gave us a thorough avalanche preparation course including how to trigger the reusable airbags. The charismatic owner André Gutenberg and his lovely wife and daughters as well as his team took great care of us. The following day we cooked out and spent the night on the lakeshore. As my son was taking photos around 11:30 pm he noticed a green sliver on the displayed picture on the camera. We hadn’t detected it with our eyes yet but it was the beginning of the Aurora Borealis and we watched the sky turn into a green spectacle for 20 minutes. It was quite a sight to see.
We awoke with anticipation to our first day of helicopter skiing and all kinds of activity at the “ranch.” André informed us that he had obtained the rights to a mountain area that had not been skied for many years and that he was going to check it out with some other guides. We were to follow behind. Of course we were really excited about that, especially that he would consider our skiing skills good enough to follow his team. Our group consisted of three others from Germany including Jo from Swabia, and Tobi and Michael from Bavaria. They were all great guys and we became good friends. The mountains were a good distance away and our guides flew with the helicopter while we were transported to the mountains with an old de Havilland Beaver. The sturdy plane was 62 years old but flew like a youngster, piloted by the always happy Chris.
Our trusty transport landed on the lake near two big oil barrels that contained gasoline for the helicopter. A few minutes later the heli arrived and took us to our first landing site near the top of a mountain. We had received strict loading entry and exit procedures that required us to huddle with one knee near the aircraft on the ground so to avoid any possible contact with the overhead blade. First the skis and airbags were loaded into a side metal box of the heli followed by our group with four in the back, the lightest in the middle, and the guide on the left side. Due to Stefan being so light were we able to fit 7 people into this helicopter. The entire landing process took less than a minute before the pilot lifted off again. Unfortunately for us on the first day the weather and visibility was not all that great. The remote location was incredible but the snow conditions were challenging, nevertheless we were elated. Our group followed the tracks of the guide group, sometimes veering off a bit to get fresh powder. Whenever we got to the bottom of a run the heli was there in no time, and we flew off to begin anew. The weather improved as we also descended further into the valley and below the tree line. Meal time proved challenging as well. Lunch was served next to the heli at the bottom of the run but getting there we had to master the increasingly difficult terrain ending in complete slush. I had borrowed a pair of skis and they were not as wide as what the others had and I definitely paid the price for it that day. After a wonderful lunch of hearty soup and sandwiches we had a few more higher runs then headed on home. We were surprised by a wonderful steak dinner that Mira, André’s wife, cooked for us.
The next morning the process was repeated but his time Stefan flew with the guides. This day I borrowed some really fat Kästle skis that were perfect for the terrain and was then able to thoroughly enjoy the entire day. We flew to two distinctly different areas and had a blast with the snow quality improving due to the lower temperatures. On the third day in Atlin we went snowmobiling with our guide who lead us to the Hinterland and prepared a wonderful barbecue with delicious Moose burgers. The only casualty that day was Stefan’s drone which he had the bad luck of flying it into a tree as he was filming. Fortunately two sets of rotors fixed the little critter that provided us with so much amazing footage.
The following day it was time to say good bye and head back north, then southwest to Carcross – originally called Caribou Crossing – from there over the White and Chilkoot Pass across the Canada – US border to Skagway. Our route was an amazingly beautiful drive that followed the famed Klondike Trail that so many hopeful prospectors traveled in the last years of the 19th century to pan for gold. The town of Skagway still pays tribute to that time and in the summer visitors can take the Yukon Route Railway up to the White Pass.
We made camp at a quiet park near the Skagway town hall and had a nice dinner in town with lots of locally brewed beer. The following day we took a one hour ferry boat to Haines across the sound. It was a beautiful sunny day and we saw the destination of our next ski adventure beckoning us from the distance. In Haines we checked in with SEABA, our next heli company that had a sprawling lodge on a hill overlooking the ocean that was not far from downtown. In the lodge we met a rowdy group of bartenders from Lake Tahoe, California who were spending ten days in Haines. Stefan immediately connected with these guys since he had grown up in Southern California.
We had to wait two more days before the weather was acceptable for flying, so we explored the town and its surroundings and ventured out to the Chilkoot State Park. The next day we drove up the Haines Pass, where another heli outfit was located. This had orginally been the place where we had planned to ski first but decided against and it turned out to be a good choice we had made. A Red Bull film crew and a professional snowboarder had been holed up there for a week due to bad weather. Despite the weather we drove further on and took a 2 hour ski tour in heavy winds and fog, at least we got to use our muscles a bit.
Friday came around and there was an excitement in the air at the lodge. The guides met at 7 am and the cook had prepared us a fantastic breakfast. We prepared and loaded up our skis, airbags into the shuttle vans and took off promptly at 8:30 to the close by airport. Each one of us was given a climbing harness and a radio, and we were weighed with and without all of our gear. We were assigned a cheerful guide named Austin and took off into the clear skies with breathtaking scenery below us. It was the most unbelievable day. The mountains were much steeper than Atlin, in fact Haines is a place were many professional extreme skiers come to film incredible descents.
Our fifth run was called the Pineapple Express and was named after a weather phenomenon. Just looking down the steep 50 degree descent sent shivers down my spine. Our guide took out his climbing rope and secured a second guide so he could test the stability of the snow. All checked out so the first group skied down one by one. Then it was our turn. Stefan dropped in and lay down fast powder lines. Two thirds down the slope there was a snow hill sticking out, which he attempted to use for a jump. Unfortunately it was an icy mound, he landed badly and ended up somersaulting several times without his bindings opening up. Both of his legs were severely shaken around in his boots, that gave him a contusion in both calves. He ended up doing one more run but then had to quit because of severe pain. Even though he was able to walk just fine when out of his ski boots unfortunately he could not ski again. We did 8 flights and runs that day and it was definitely the most epic ski day of my life. To top off the day despite Stefan’s injury we did enjoy a fine seafood feast of Alaskan king crab.
Saturday brought some great weather to begin with but we had to stop after four runs because of clouds moving in. The following day Jo and Michael attempted to go out but ended up with only two runs and a lot of waiting at the airport. To our surprise the company then gave us a gift of another four runs the following morning. Our guide was on a snowboard and we finished skiing with some wonderful powder. Our last evening our group came together for our farewell barbeque on the beach and we made a strong fire and grilled some awesome ribeye steaks with baked potatoes professionally prepared courtesy of Harry. The setting sun bid farewell to this incredible scenery with its glaciers down to the ocean and steep mountains reaching to the skies.
Our drive back into Canada via the Haines Pass to Haines Junction and then onto Whitehorse was uneventful and we returned our RVs. The next morning we left for Vancouver while the others headed back to Europe. We spent a nice evening in one of Canada’s finest cities and flew back home the following day. It was an adventure of a lifetime.
The blue snow glowed under the full moon as the dark slopes loomed silently against the skyline. At its towering feet the Körbersee Lake lay covered in its winter mantle and the March night was magical high in the Austrian alps. Franz, myself, and our son had come for some days of spring skiing to meet up with a lively group of friends we try to meet every year somewhere in Europe. And this year the snow gods smiled upon our lucky crew and bestowed some fresh powder and sun drenched days. To make things even better the primo weather made for some incredible photographic opportunities that our group indulged in.
The Körbersee Hotel is a small oasis in the Warth/Schröcken ski resort with access to Lech am Arlberg only a few hills away with the speedy Auenfeldjet gondola. What makes the lodgings unique is that access to the hotel is either by foot via a hiking trail from Schröcken or Warth or one can ski in, cross country or downhill. This small gem lies in a small valley with an unsurpassed view and an easy cross country trail around the lake with even more advanced trails into the mountains. We will be back next year for sure!
What makes this film especially unique it is our first time to use a drone for spectacular aerial views of these magnificent mountains, especially the Juppenspitze and the Mohnenfluh.
The melting water had frozen into long gleaming daggers that decorated the steep rock faces along the icicle trail of the Wirtatobel ravine. The night before the temperatures had plunged and we had to be extra careful navigating the sidewalks let alone an icy mountain path. January had been the coldest month in Austria in over thirty years and Franz and I had been on the look out for an exceptionally cold day to photograph a flow of water that we drive past to go cross country skiing in our local mountains. After capturing our shot we made our leave and a little side road beckoned us. And what a sight we saw. We were enchanted to find the ravine adorned with elegant icicles on both sides of the crevasse and the gleaming formations captivated us as we walked in silence enjoying the splendor of a Sunday morning hike up the magical gorge.
Christmas was in the air with the scents of freshly baked gingerbread, spiced cider, and sizzling sausages as I strolled the Christmas market of the 2000 year old city of Kempten, Germany. Seasonal decorations adorned the shops and walkways and there were plenty of visitors enjoying the festive mood despite the low December temperatures. But anticipating the cold we were bundled up for an afternoon of exploring the inner city of the capital of the oldest “urban settlement” in Germany.
Kempten is located in Southwest Germany in the Allgäu region of Schwabia along the Iller River. It is about an hour’s drive away from Bregenz. And it has a glorious history boasting both Celtic and Roman roots and was first mentioned by the Greek geographer Strabon in 50 BC by its former name Cambodunum. Around 700 AD the monastery Kempten Abbey was built by the influential Benedictine monks Magnus von Füssen and Theodor from the Abbey of Saint Gall in nearby Switzerland. It was the first in the region and grew to be the most influential in the Frankish Kingdom. The church unfortunately suffered from invasion by the Magyars and the Thirty Years War and had to be rebuilt in 1652 becoming the new St. Lorenz Basilica. The highlights in the city include the Archaeological Park Cambodunum and the interactive underground chapel called the Erasmuskapelle.
The Christmas market served up all of the usual holiday fare such as Flammkuchen, a sort of Alsatian Pizza and many varieties of sausages. Even better for us they had a gourmet section as well where the local cooking school served up gourmet goodies such as duck with red cabbage laced with chocolate. We toasted yuletide greetings with glasses of sparkling Prosecco and had a dessert of Kaiserschmarren, which is a sweet pancake like dish served with plum compote and topped with powdered sugar. Super yummy! What a lovely way to wait for Christmas Day.
The high temperatures of the day radiated off the stone avenues in the coastal city of Dubrovnik, Croatia. It was early September and the streets were sweltering and crowded with sunburnt tourists congregating to explore the 7th century town overlooking the sparkling Adriatic. But despite the hordes, I was determined to find the spot where the shorn and naked Cersei Lannister endured her “walk of shame” filmed for the popular TV series Game of Thrones. It turned out earlier I had unknowingly admired the Jesuit Staircase where the controversial atonement scene had been filmed. Being an avid fan of the show and having seen the site I was content to stroll the passages becoming a part of the swarming masses. Impressive is the word that comes to mind in describing this medieval gem crowned “The Pearl of the Adriatic.” The pristine city is adorned with terra cotta rooftops and limestone buildings of varying architectural styles including Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque that line the walkways dating to the 13th century. It was hard to imagine that during the Serbian Croatian War the city had been bombed but fortunately it has recovered and today this national treasure has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/95
For us the best way to enjoy the town was to stroll its meandering walkways with no set plan allowing the paths to lead us in discovering private terrace gardens, tucked away bars, and small galleries. The evening temperatures were pleasant to explore the well known sites that allowed for time and place with the day trippers packed off back to their cruise ships. We woke up early to take the popular self guided tour around the city atop the ancient ramparts to avoid the heat and crowds. It was a good strategy again allowing us time and room to admire the sea and the unsurpassed views with the morning light making for a photographer’s dream.
The former wealth of the noble settlement is apparent and its power was derived from its strategic position on the Dalmatian coast and its position gave it access to important shipping routes that allowed for trade far and wide. Their fascinating history is one of invasion, occupation, and war. Beginning in the 7th century they were attacked by the Slavs. They then merged with the Byzantine Empire in the 9th century where they became increasingly prosperous, so much so that the Venetians fearing their growing power attacked, and they came under their rule from 1205-1385. During this time the old city was built in the 13th century and even boasted a pharmacy that still stands today and an orphanage dating to these times as well. The city was raised by an earthquake in 1667 weakening it so much that Napoleon was able to take the city in 1806. After Napoleon was ousted they were once again swallowed up by the Austrian-Hungarian Empire in 1815. Following World War I Croatia became part of the Kingdom of the Serbs until after World War II, they then joined the other Balkan states to become Yugoslavia. And most recently during the Serbian Croatian war they were brutally besieged for seven months and the old town was badly damaged, but today it has been restored to its former glory attesting to the indomitable spirit of its people. http://www.likecroatia.com/news-tips/dubrovnik-home-to-the-oldest-working-pharmacy-in-europe/ http://www.tzdubrovnik.hr/lang/english/get/sakralni_objekti/5268/convent_of_st_claire.html http://www.visit-croatia.co.uk/index.php/croatia-destinations/dubrovnik/history-dubrovnik/
The culinary scene in Dubrovnik focuses on seafood and seasonal vegetables from the region. The typical restaurant menus are very good, although not particularly innovative, with the food prepared to allow the flavors to shine through unhindered by sauces and spices. One exceptional restaurant for us was the Bota Sare Oyster and Sushi Bar. What enticed me to this restaurant was a sign posted outside that they served the famous Mali Ston oysters that I had only read about. Oysters and sushi top the list of my favorite foods so it was a no brainer. Their prime location across from the famous 12-14th century Romanesque Cathedral of the Assumption offered a welcome respite from the droves but more importantly served up an outstanding Adriatic and Japanese fusion menu. We partook of the reputed Mali Ston oysters and sushi and paired the salty goodness of the succulent mollusks with a well known white wine called Pošip from Korčula. What a way to top the day reveling in the bounty of the sea while marveling at the architectural mastery of this gleaming city. http://www.bota-sare.hr/?restaurant=dubrovnik-old-town
After having tasted the lauded Mali Ston oysters the night before in Dubrovnik Franz and I just had to venture out to the source to taste some more of its salty goodness. So we boarded a local bus in the morning out to the Pelješac peninsula about an hour away and spent the afternoon exploring the bay and swimming in its temperate waters. We arrived just after the bus tours had left for the day so the village was quiet and relaxed. The idyllic Mali Ston sits at the edge of the clear waters of the bay of the same name and is really only a small assortment of modest houses and a few restaurants with a long ago abandoned castle that towers over the town. Its shores are lined with an assortment of boats of all sizes and shapes and is littered with plenty of oyster cages dangling alongside the water craft. The oysters have been farmed here since ancient times with the town founded in 1335 and the port built later in 1490. There are a series of fortifications of walls and towers constructed as defensive measures to protect the nearby Dubrovnik with a 5 kilometer wall joining the nearby Ston. And every September runners from around the world come to participate in the Stone Wall Marathon that follows these long ago defenses. http://www.croatiatraveller.com/southern_dalmatia/Peljesac/Ston.htm
The restaurant of our choice was the Kapetanova Kuca that has a enviable seaside location with a harbor view of the calm waters that nurture the oysters to delectable perfection. We feasted on them of course and chose a beautiful grilled fish with a side of black squid risotto and paired it with several glasses of Pošip from Korčula. Our meal ended on a sweet note of Mali Ston cake called Stonski makaruli. We were in luck and had the restaurant almost to ourselves and basked in the attentive Dalmatian hospitality. This is one place I will come back to again and again. http://www.ostrea.hr/restaurant/
A vertical drop lay to one side of the road and unconsciously I leaned towards the mountain as our taxi slowly rounded the serpentine curves of the Dinaric Alps of Montenegro. This tiny mountainous country has the well earned reputation of having the most rugged terrain in Europe with its mountain ranges that rise from sea level to an average elevation of 6,562 ft. It makes for dramatic views. As we reached the summit the breathtaking Adriatic lay below us revealing the narrow coastal plain that meets the steep mountains. This precious swatch of land is only 4 km at its widest and holds many settlements and larger cities along on its rocky shores. The subtropical landscape is a Mediterranean marquis which is composed of a mixture of hardy shrubbery and woodlands and in the late summer heat the air was scented with the fragrance of sage, pine, and tinged with just a touch of salt.
The stunning landscape is just one reason we were enchanted by this coastal nation with the other being the amiable people we met. We found them friendly and resilient despite the difficult social and political challenges that their country has experienced and still is. I was surprised as how open they were to talk about the economic problems that they were facing personally as well how this directly affected their town. A concern that was voiced again and again was with the growing Russian influence on the economic and political situation and what that may hold for the future of the region. It was pretty eye opening to say the least. But despite their turbulent history and the uncertain times they were proud of their country and cultural heritage and rightly so.
We had arranged for a driver to meet us at the small Podgorica airport and he drove us over the coastal range to the seaside town of Petrovac. The small city is a family oriented tourist destination with many international guests with a large majority coming from Russia. We only found out later that it was known a “Russian town” although one figures that out pretty quickly with the menus in Cyrillic and Russian is spoken everywhere. Their presence grew tiresome as I became less tolerant of the Russian women’s selfie obsession and constant preening for the camera at every possible photographic opportunity. And this is saying a lot for a native of Southern California who grew up in a society that embraces the quest for youth and beauty.
Aside from the aspiring Russian models Petrovac was a good location to explore the nearby areas. And that we did making day excursions inland to Skadar Lake and Lovćen National Park, and coastal jaunts to the cities of Budva and Ulcinj. We had hoped that the first week of September would not be quite so hot but it was so we adjusted our activities accordingly. Our Airbnb lodging were simple but the location was convenient. What the room lacked in amenities the host made up in kindness. She was a lovely woman who treated us well and offered us a glimpse into the life of a local family. We met some of her relatives and friends and we joined them several times in conversation and shared their homemade prosciutto, cheese, and potent vodka.
After our days activities we enjoyed happy hour and a refreshing swim at the Cafe Club Ponta with its sea level bar and unsurpassed view. And every night we visited a new restaurant reveling in the tasty seafood and enjoyed late nights drinks in the numerous bars listening to local music. Our favorite bar for a closing night cap was the Terasa Castello where they also made a mean Margarita and the cliffside setting was stunning. Petrovac does have its share of problems with abandoned building projects, lack of job opportunities, and Russian drug trafficking, etc. but despite this we found the Montenegrins to be engaging and very charming people.
Bustling Budva
The bus driver deftly maneuvered his coach along the busy route lined with high rise apartments and hotels toour days destination of Budva which is the largest city in Montenegro. He unknowingly provided us with entertainment with his ongoing commentary of greeting his numerous friends or yelling at offending drivers. After a lively ride we were deposited near the Stari Grad (Old Town) and spent the afternoon there strolling the walled stone city and the narrow walkways lined with tourist shops and sidewalk cafes. We found the Old Town limited in what it had to offer of historical importance but the imposing Citadela fortress was an impressive structure that housed a small museum with a library filled with rare books and old maps and was worth the look. The Old Town is oriented to the bustling harbor that is crowded with high end yachts and working boats and the waterfront is lined with endless seafood restaurants. We decided to lunch inside the old city at a shady restaurant that was a welcome relief from the heat of the day. Our eatery was the Kafana Rivijera and a fine choice it was. We enjoyed a cool tomato gazpacho, generous octopus and calamari salads, and a tasty Tres Leche cake topped with fruit. After our leisurely meal we chose to return to Petrovac via scenic water taxi to Sveti Stefan, the famous fortified 2km island dating from 1442. The island town has a venerable history having been ruled and occupied by Venetians and Ottomans and later became distinguished as the summer residence of the Queen of Serbia. Today it still caters to the international rich and famous and is an acclaimed 5 star luxury resort. We admired the picturesque island, disembarked our small boat, bid our friendly driver adieu, and made our way back to our local seaside bar for happy hour and an cool evening dip.
Water lily petals covered the surface of the calm inlet as our tour boat made its way out into the open waters of Lake Skadar. The coolness of the wind was a welcome relief from the steaming bus we had taken earlier from Petrovac to the small village of Virpazar that sits on the shores of Lake Skadar National Park. Skadar is the largest fresh water lake in the Balkans and Montenegro shares its shoreline with Albania. In the summertime its waters cover about 370 square miles increasing in winter up to 530 square kilometers. The length is around 44 km by 10 km wide and has an average depth of 8 meters. This wetland is vital to the region and is home to the endangered Dalmatian Pelican that is one of the largest of its kind measuring from a whopping 160-183 cm in length and has a wingspan from 290-345 cm. It is one massive bird. In addition to the pelican there is a myriad of other birdlife with over 260 species represented making for a birder’s paradise.
Our small vessel was filled with the obligatory aging Russian beauties, a group of young Montenegrins, a few families, and overall it was an interesting collection of travelers. We had chosen an English speaking tour but that was not to be as our Russian tour guide informed us she had had only two months of English although we were quite impressed with the information she did manage to relay. Nevertheless we enjoyed the incredible natural beauty of the emerald waters and the imposing mountains in the distance. We began our cruise with a breakfast of fried sweet balls similar to a doughnut that we dipped in honey, local soft cheese, and of course vodka. Vodka we found was offered morning and night and the portions were always very generous. As the the temperatures rose we were grateful for our shade canopy and we stopped in different areas so that the we could swim in the refreshing waters. Following our four hour ride we enjoyed a delicious group lunch at the Hotel Pelikan where we feasted on tasty fish soup and fresh trout while chatting with our table mates.
Afterwards we were free to roam about the small fishing village of Virpazar where we visited the small museum and learned about the area’s history and sites that include the remains of 15 medieval Orthodox monasteries dating as far back as the ancient Slav Zeta Dynasty from 1360-1421, several fortresses, and even an island prison. The control over the strategic lake was one of ongoing struggle with the Venetians, the Ottomans, and the Hungarians all vying for position along with the Ottomans who had managed to hold onto it for five centuries until the beginning of the 19th. The land surrounding the lake is fertile and is known for the small wine producing region of Crmnica that is considered to produce the best wines of Montenegro from the red varnac grape.
Montenegro can prove to be quite a challenge when traveling solely by public transportation especially when trying to reach the mountainous interior. So we ended up renting a car for a day to visit a few inland sites that led us up winding roads and down steep terrain that proved to be a bit harrowing at times. Our first stop was the Old Royal Capital of Cetinje that was founded in the 15th century and sits in a valley at the base of the Lovcen mountains. Today it holds the title of the honorary capital of Montenegro. Cetinje in earlier times was an important Montenegrin cultural hub as well as a flourishing Eastern Orthodox religious center. The city also bore the brunt of invading Venetian and Ottoman troops and saw the end to the Crnojević dynasty and the beginning of the Petrović dynasty that ruled from 1697-1918. The outskirts of the city reflected the years of neglect under the Soviet yoke but in recent times with funding from the EU the inner city has received a much needed facelift. The shops, cafes, and sites have been renovated and made for a short but interesting walking tour. We visited the Vlaška Church built in 1450 with its cherished altar and crowns from the old monarchy, and the Ethnographic Museum that had a wonderful exhibition of regional textile artwork. Unfortunately we were only able to visit the exterior of the Cetinje Monastery which is the most famous Serb Orthodox Monastery that was rebuilt in 1785. It was too bad because I was interested in the important relics they hold that include the remains of St. Peter of Cetinje and the right hand of John the Baptist.
The roads in Montenegro are not for the faint-hearted. They are often narrow with winding S turns and steep drop-offs, unpaved, and sometimes there are no safety rails. This can make for some heart pounding moments but if one takes their time you can arrive safely at your destination albeit a bit dusty. After our jaunt through Cetinjewe hit the road again to find a village nestled adjacent to Lovćen National Park called Njeguši that we had heard about. They reputably make the best prosciutto and cheese (Njeguški pršut and Njeguški sir) in Montenegro so naturally we had just had to visit. We did find the tiny village with a booming 17 inhabitants and lots of feral cats but it was charmingly complete with traditional folk architecture and it seemed as if we had stepped into an earlier time. The village also sold many of its own products such as wool textiles and clothing, brandy, and honey. After a short stroll in the village we settled on the restaurant Restoran Konoba koi Radonjica where we enjoyed a typical mountain meal of roast lamb, prosciutto, potatoes, and a sweet cucumber and tomato salad. We also had a nice chat with two retired Swiss motorcyclists who were on a summer tour of the Balkans and they amused us with a few of their adventure stories. We found out later that the name of the village bore the name of the local tribe of the region and was also the birthplace of the Petrović Dynasty. The village attracts many summer tourists fortunately we were traveling in September so the town was relatively quiet.
Lovely Lovćen National Park
Lovely Lovćen National Park
The Lovćen National Park signs beckoned to us so after our meal we set off to find a trail to hike in the rocky terrain. We settled upon a path that promised a striking view of the landscape and we were not disappointed. We encountered no people on the trails and took in the solitude and the lovely mountain flora. The way was pretty rough and karst is not forgiving so one has to pay attention a bit more. Unfortunately we did not have a lot of time left and Franz had to leave climbing to the top of Jezerski Vrh at 1657m and the Njegoš Mausoleum for another time. We had a long drive back to Petrovac so we enjoyed the time we had and headed down the impressive mountain road overlooking the famous Bay of Kotor with its commanding view all the way to the Adriatic. It simply takes your breathe away. The 17 km. zigzagging narrow one way road has the reputation as one of the most famous hair pinned road in the world and I can definitely attest to that. I would add nail biting as well. It has 25 of them to be exact with plenty of sheer drops. It was an experience that I was glad to have had but for me once was more than enough.
Crossing the bridge over the emerald moat and entering the imposing North Gate into the city of Kotor, Montenegro one is instantly transported back into another time. Within this walled Stari Grad images of the ancient pathways thronging with crusaders, Muslim robed traders, and black clad monks coming together in this cultural hub from the Mediterranean to the Middle East, and as far away as Africa speaking a babel of tongues light up the imagination. Franz and I had arrived from Dubrovnik, Croatia via an easy 2 hour bus ride to visit the magnificent Bay of Kotor which is a well deserved UNESCO World Heritage Site.
My steady breathing was in sync with my steps as Franz and I climbed the hiking path and the 1,350 stairs winding up to the Fortress of St John that looked down on the Old Townat 820 feet above sea level. We had gotten up early to make our vertical ascent to avoid the heat of the day and the cruise ship crowds. The crisp air was tinged with a faint whiff of smoke from some forest fires in the nearby Albanian mountains but despite the haze we were rewarded for our efforts. Below us lay the magnificent Bota Kotorska Bay with no one else around and the view was simply stunning. The morning light reflecting off the fjords emerald waters painted a watery rendition of the towering peaks on its calm surface. The bay is the deepest in the Mediterranean Sea and is surrounded by imposing limestone mountains whose faces are lined with 3 miles of defensive fortifications and was quite a building feat in this rocky terrain. After drinking in natures magnificence we made our descent and only then did a few tourists make their way up the trail. We exchanged some pleasantries with a fellow Californian who had been traveling for a few years and it was a welcome respite to trade travel stories and tips with someone from my neck of the woods.
As we wandered the harbor looking for a highly reviewed restaurant to book a table for the evening we found the police had blocked off the side streets leaving only the main route open. Soon the sounds of sirens and police cars could be heard leading a motorcade of black tinted limousines to the city. We wondered who these important people were and I offhandedly remarked that it must be the president of Montenegro. Unknowingly we bypassed the security and found the upscale restaurant whose access was also blocked but the entrance was still open. So I walked right up to reserve a place for dinner. The hostess was a bit surprised and informed me they were closed for a private event. Regardless she was friendly and reserved our table for dinner. I inquired what VIP was in the restaurant and we were told that it was the President of Montenegro and the President of San Marino. Of course I had to peek in a bit to see the distinguished guests and inquired as to what they were having. That evening in the romantic setting with a fantastic table and impeccable service we enjoyed the same delicious seafood meal that the dignitaries had had. If it was good enough for two presidents it was certainly good enough for us. A friend’s humorous quip was “Everybody wants to eat where Sharon and Franz do.” Too funny.
Our simple lodgings we had booked with Airbnb were inside the old city and its location could not have been better. We had easy access to restaurants and bars and enjoyed some typical Montenegrin meals of seafood, prosciutto, and local cheese. The well preserved city is small and in the evening the cruise ship tourists leave and the streets are lively but not too overcrowded so one can get a feeling for the locale. Today historians can’t say when Kotor came into existence but what is known is that it was a Greek settlement inhabited with Illyrians and Romans as well and that it had been written about before the time of Homer around IV-VII century BCE. The city has had a tumultuous past and has been plundered by the Ostrogoths in the 500’s and the Saracens the 800’s and was occupied respectively by the Bulgarians, the Serbs, the Venetians, the Habsburgs, the Ottomans, and lastly the little big man himself Napoleon. This long history of ruler and the ruled made for a fascinating trip into the bygone days of this culturally rich region and provided an excellent location for exploring the mountainous neighborhood.
Turquoise skies graced with billowing clouds were reflected in the pool beside the burbling stream. In the distance the familiar clanging of cow bells mingled with chirping of birds that could be heard in the peaceful valley. We were in hiking paradise. Franz and I were visiting “the only heaven on earth” the Nenzinger Himmel settlement in Vorarlberg, Austria to celebrate my birthday. This pristine outpost is located at the end of a dramatic rocky gorge that winds along the Gamperdona Valley just above Bludenz and situated on the borders to both Switzerland and Liechtenstein. The sparkling Mengbach (Meng River) cascades through the ravine 16 kilometers until it reaches the River Ill. High mountain peaks of limestone and dolomite loom over the fairytale like setting below. The village is comprised of 200 cottages and one simple hotel called the Alpengasthof Gamperdona at which we stayed. Tourism is permitted during the summer months with tightly controlled road access that ensures the integrity of the nature park. Hiking paths abound from the hamlet to emerald lakes and meadows bursting with alpine flowers. What a way to spend one’s birthday. I highly recommend it!
The summer storm threatened to fall all day. As the evening came the skies lightened and we were graced with a brilliant sunset splashed across Lake Constance. Franz and I were thrilled because we had tickets to the Bregenzer Festspiele in our city of Bregenz, Austria. This years lavish opera was Giacomo Puccini’s Turandot. The story set in China is of the Princess Turandot who had enthralled many princely suitors. To win her hand they had to solve three riddles but if failed they were beheaded. The Prince Calaf falls for the Princess and solves the riddles but she refuses him. He then offers that if she can find out his name by morning he will die but if not she will his betrothed. The dramatic narrative combined with the light rain only added to the flowing beauty of the vocal performances and the Viennese Symphonic Orchestra who played to perfection on the floating stage.The opera performers were spectacular and the highlight of the evening, the aria Nessum dormas was met with much applause. The stage setting and lighting with the backdrop of the great wall of China complete with oversized terra cotta soldiers and Chinese lanterns adorning the moving platform was breathtaking. The costume design was lavish as well as were all aspects of the production from the fire jugglers and martial artists to the stellar acrobatics and dragons. What a wonderful operatic evening we had. I can’t wait until next year’s staging of Georges Bizet’s Carmen.
The opera performers were spectacular and the highlight of the evening, the aria Nessum dormas was met with much applause. The stage setting and lighting with the backdrop of the great wall of China complete with oversized terra cotta soldiers and Chinese lanterns adorning the moving platform was breathtaking. The costume design was lavish as well as were all aspects of the production from the fire jugglers and martial artists to the stellar acrobatics and dragons. What a wonderful operatic evening we had. I can’t wait until next year’s staging of Georges Bizet’s Carmen.