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The Port in Portugal Porto, Portugal, 8-2017
Strolling along the River Douro on a balmy September evening one could almost inhale the feeling of Porto, Portugal. The royal blue sky framed the darkened slopes that met at the water’s edge. The star of the scene was the silhouette of the Dom Luis Bridge with its sparkling lights glimmering off the midnight blue water. This moment in time could not have gotten any better. Then it did. Because the real star, or satellite, of the show made its dramatic entrance. The gleaming full moon in all its lunar glory rose over the architecture and illuminated the landscape below. One could not helped being enthralled by the magnificence of the heavens as man has been since the beginning of time. This is the image of Porto that I have perched so elegantly on the banks of the Douro.
The evening began as stellar as it had ended. We started out on a dinner quest by hailing a river taxi to the opposite bank in the Afurada neighborhood that just oozed Portguese authenticity. Children played in the streets while the old people watched from the sidewalks and friends called out greetings to each other making for a vibrant street life. We found our restaurant destination the Casa do FC Porto na Afurada that came highly recommended by our host. The eatery is a local’s spot and known for serving up some of the best grilled fish and it’s also the choice for the avid soccer club fans of FC Porto. And do these fans eat well. The fresh seafood was prepared on the barbecue right in front of the restaurant and the combination of the old Porto vibe and succulent food made for a most memorable meal.
https://www.facebook.com/Casa-Fcporto-Dragoes-Da-Afurada-333141153503209/?rf=213989482092479
The influence that the Catholic church had and still does is quite apparent throughout the city. Within the historic center the must see sights abound such as the the Sào Francisco Church (1383) with its striking Gothic architecture and its dramatic Baroque interior. Other religious sites we took in were the soaring 75 meter Clèrigos Tower that’s hard to miss on the skyline. And situated on the opposite bank in Gaia perches the 16th century Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar whose church and cloisters display a circular columned design that is unique in Portugal. We also took a tour which offered us insight not only into the monastery as a religious institution but to its defensive importance due to its geographic situation that was and still is used by the military.
http://www.localporto.com/gothic-st-francis-church-porto
http://www.porto-tourism.com/porto-attractions/historical-monuments-and-edifices-in-porto/clerigos-tower.html
www.visitportugal.com/en/content/mosteiro-da-serra-do-pilar
The nature of the city is expressed in its humble fishing and working boats that possess great character despite their peeling paint and are moored by frayed lines strewn with brown kelp along the river estuary. The worn watercraft lean beached among the algae rocks and lobster cages when the tidal action lays bare the debris from the working harbor. And the pungent air reeks of decaying fish and the natural smells of the ocean. Birds of all kinds forage in the shallow waters where it flows out to the Atlantic Ocean . The aging fleet is as colorful as the people who work at the water’s edge whose lives revolve around the harvesting of the oceans bounty and the transportation of the all important Port wine. The most recognizable of the watercraft is the traditional Portuguese wooden Rabelo boat. This elegant yet durable boat was used for centuries to transport people and goods along the Duoro River. But by far its most precious cargo was the product of what this city was named for its delicious Port wine.
Surreal Seradina-Bedolina Archeology Park, Capo di Ponte, Italy, 8-2017
The half moon shone radiant against the sapphire sky as the morning sun lit the sandstone peaks across the valley. As I paused to take in the rugged grandeur of the Seradina Bedolina Municipal Archaeological Park and wondered how many sunrises have these mountains seen and by whom? Questions such as these is what lured Franz and I to this ancient site in Capo di Ponte, Italy. The Camonica Valley holds more than 150 engraved rocks with inscriptions and a thousand figures that depict the long ago dwellers in their daily and religious life as well as in more aggressive activities such as in hunting and fighting. The engravings span from the Late Prehistoric through the Roman Age with the majority dating from the Iron Age. The most famous engravings include the “Rock of the Map” and the symbol of Lombardia, the Rosa Camuna.
http://www.archeocamuni.it/seradinabedolina_en.html
The petroglyphs are found on the western side of the valley and the conditions created from the sunny mountainside allows for an interesting combination of succulents and cacti along with a variety of alpine flowers set among the low growing evergreens. We were amazed at the access of the park that was unregulated with limited signage warnings but for the most part visitors were free to roam the park at will. We even came upon a group camping site with children running about despite it being set among the ancient petroglyphs.
To gain a more in depth knowledge of the area we ventured to the commune of Capo di Ponti where the Camonica Valley National Museum of Prehistory is located. The museum was well worth the time and included an extensive collection of engraved steles and menhirs along with informative and interactive exhibitions that are a treasure trove for history buffs like me. Each floor focused on a theme ranging from the sacred and religious sites to material culture offering the viewer a greater understanding of the region’s earlier inhabitants and a fascinating look into their past.
Beauteous Bienno, Italy, 8-2017
Strolling up the thoroughfare into the old town center of Bienno, Italy my eye was caught by a stately house whose gate was slightly ajar and I could glimpse the garden that lay beyond. My curiosity got the best of me and I just had to have a peek. Inside revealed a lovely courtyard with manicured lawn and hedges. As I admired the setting an older gentlemen greeted me and I excused myself for being a “looky loo” explaining that I had been enticed by the beauty of his home. He was gracious and invited me in and gave me a tour of his garden and patio. Workers were busy readying the premises for a family party the next day. And what event it was going to be. Inside the patio he had an automated spit to roast an entire pig with enough seating and settings for a small army. He told me the following day his large family was coming to visit for the beginning of the arts and culture festival the Mostra Mercado that is held every August and is the highlight of their summer season.
The friendly conversation with the local gentleman was our introduction to Bienno and this hospitality continued as Franz and I wandered the ancient walkways of what has been voted “One of Italy’s most beautiful cities.” We took in the fine ironwork and colorful facades and found the shop owners welcoming and their products were not of the typical variety found in many tourist towns. One such establishment was a traditional leather maker who not only fashioned custom shoes but created scabbard sheaths for swords. Another fascinating building was the Forge Workshop whose facade displayed the artistic work that this “iron born” town had been known for in supplying tools and weaponry. Overlooking the village is a fifteenth century water mill that is still in use and was manned by an elderly couple that sell the freshly ground products. Bienno brought back to life its proud past and is a testament to its amiable people and their creative craftwork all nestled into the fairytale mountain valley.
Captivating Carvings Val Camonica, Italy, 8-2017
The turquoise sky was cloudless and the temperature was climbing as Franz and I made our way into the forest canopy in the Camonica Valley near Brescia, Italy. The coolness of the air beneath the trees combined with the early morning solitude lent a feeling that we were stepping back into time. And we were for these mountains had been formed during the Ice Age when glaciers cut out the deep valleys and polished the gray sandstone. It was upon these rocks that the early valley dwellers pecked away at the hard stone to leave their markings on the surfaces. Over time they left an extraordinary prehistoric record that we had come to see as we made our way into the Naquane National Park of Rock Engravings. This historic area was chosen as the first recognized UNESCO World Heritage Site established in Italy in 1955.
The Naquane Park covers over 14 hectares of rock art land and holds 104 engraved rocks whose chronology ranges from the Neolithic (5th-4th millennium BCE) to the Iron Age (1st millennium BCE) when the region was inhabited by the Camunni and and it is these people who are best represented. The stone surfaces tell the story of man’s inhabitation in the valley including a thousand human stick figures found in numerous postures portraying them from hunting to fighting and even dancing. Village life is depicted in daily living situations and is complete with scenes of religious life ranging from what is interpreted as shamanistic rituals and divine like images. Camunian inscriptions and symbolic symbols are found as well. Taken as a whole it is no wonder that the park was chosen over the incredible historical treasures that this country holds and attests to the singular importance of the landmark .
The Camonica Valley has more than its share of historical significance as well as an array of good food and wine that rivals any in Italy, but there is one downside to the region and that is the northern access into the valley itself. Franz and I even came up with a new table for us which we dubbed the “barfometer.” Unfortunately the road we took rated a 10. Our chosen route represented on google maps did not mirror the reality of the seemingly endless WINDING road. At one point I came close to giving up on our destination but with Franz’s optimistic “we’re almost there” I persevered and was happy that I had. Just a heads up unless one drives from Milan the road in is not the most “motion friendly” route.
http://www.vallecamonicaunesco.it/parco-naquane.php
Despite the challenging drive the Valley was fascinating. We stayed at a local Airbnb the Valtili’-Camera Blu in Berzo Demo which had just opened. The family was gracious, the breakfast superb, the rooms were modern and tastefully decorated, and the location overlooking the Po River offered easy access to the major routes. The nearby Ristorante Pizzeria Piz Tri served up well priced and delicious local food and with a smile too. Our sojourn to Val Camonica was a blast to the prehistoric past but with good eats. This Natives kind of journey.
http://www.ristorantepiztri.it/?utm_source=tripadvisor&utm_medium=referral
Ice Age Eistobel, Maierhofen, Germany, 8-2017
A loud crack reverberated in the deep gorge as the sound filled the forested canyon. It stopped dead in my tracks and I looked upwards to see where the sound originated from. A large branch began falling from the forest canopy and I shouted “WATCH OUT!” to a young man crossing the bridge who froze in place with eyes as wide as saucers. Myself and the other onlookers watched in horror as the evergreen plummeted down onto the unsuspecting hiker. Thankfully the bough landed just inches from his body. We were all relieved that he remained unscathed. Occasionally Mother Nature sends us a reminder of who really is the boss. Putting aside these concerns I enjoyed the sheer beauty of the 15,000 year Eistobel Gorge in Maierhofen, Germany. The canyon was carved out during the Ice Age and the rock layers have revealed millions of years of geological history including fossilized shark teeth from an ancient sea that had earlier covered the region. One literally walks back through time with the water cascading over rocks and plunging down chutes that are filled with the sound of the life giving compound echoing off its 900 meter depth. Dramatic and unique this geotope landscape is home to numerous rare species of plants and animals that thrive in this Bavarian environment. The reserve is open year round even during winter when crampons are a must and adventurous hikers trek into the canyon to view the formations covered in snow and ice. It was another day well spent delving into the recesses of the earth.
https://translate.google.at/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=https://www.eistobel.de/&prev=search
Lovely Lechweg, Lech, Austria, 8-2017
The swift Lech River flowed beneath the rocky trail leading through mountain meadows bursting with alpine blooms of all colors and buzzing with bees and fluttering butterflies. The temperature was pleasantly warm with a soft breeze blowing that made for perfect walking conditions. Franz and I had started our hike from the trail in Zug that began at the Fischerstüble that sits on the shores of turquoise green trout ponds that serve up freshly caught trout. The path meanders through stunning landscape and only occasionally does one run into other hikers. Birds of all kinds can be seen and waterfalls plunge dramatically down the ravines. The extended Lechweg is a certified long distance trail that connects three regions and two countries from the Arlberg in Austria to the Southern Allgau in Germany. But for us the extended version will have to wait for another time. Instead we ended our short jaunt at the Gasthaus Älpele and enjoyed a bite to eat in the local restaurant and headed on back to where we began. It was an easy stroll and an enjoyable way to spend the summer afternoon soaking in the Austrian rocky mountain vibes.
http://www.lech-zuers.at/restaurants-lech/fischteichhttp://www.lechweg.com/en/the-trail/the-route/
http://www.aelpele-lech.at/willkommen-im-gasthaus-aelpele.html
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Sandy Sculptures Lauterach, Austria, 8-2017
Sandy Sculptures Lauterach, Austria
Where to spend Friday date night? Well, at the 20 million year old sand formations on the Bregenzer Ach in Lauterach, Austria of course. After 32 years of date nights this was a first for us. I had passed by these unique formations on numerous occasions and had made a mental note to spend some time there. So on a recent Friday we finally did. Armed with a spritzig prosecco and goodies we did just that. We enjoyed a lovely summer evening frolicking in the water and admiring the remnants of the petrified sea coast formed by the ebb and flow of the tides that had once graced these lands million of years ago…
http://www.vol.at/die-sandplatten-als-versteinerte-meereskueste/3725392
Illuminating Ingolstadt, Germany, 7-2017
The imposing towers of the Bavarian Army Museum were striking against the azure skies over the Bavarian town of Ingolstadt, Germany. Looming medieval fortress walls enclosed the city center with typical Bavarian architecture mixed with Gothic buildings making for a nice Sunday afternoon stroll. Inglostadtians have Louis VII The Duke of Bavaria to thank for building the New Castle that combined both French and Gothic styles that grace the town today. The city dates back to 806 where it was first mentioned by Charlemagne. Its other claims to fame are that it is the home to Victor Frankenstein where he created his monster in Mary Shelley’s 1818 famous novel as well as being home to the original secret society The Illuminati that was formed in the 18th century. Back in its day from 1392-1447 it was also the seat of power and was capital of the Duchy of Bavaria-Inglostadt. But today it is a quaint city resting quietly along the shores of the Danube and as a friend assured me is a wonderful place to raise a family but for singles it is far from ideal. Regardless of its lack of thriving nightlife it was a wonderful way for this ole married couple to spend the afternoon.
http://www.ingolstadt-tourismus.de/en/home.html
The Green City of Besancon, France, 6-2017
The young artist sported a jaunty beret and focused intently on his street mural. His concrete canvas displayed an array of bright colors and geometric shapes that swirled as if in motion. The composition literally caught the eye in that it featured a prominent eye peering out from the lower half of his work. Franz and “eye” sat at the nearby sidewalk cafe sipping our morning coffee enjoying his creative process. We had come to celebrate our 27th wedding anniversary in the charming city of Besançon, France and to partake in its culinary delights and sights.
Besançon lies near the Jura Mountains on the border of Switzerland in the region of Bourgogne-Franche-Comte. The city is the capital of Doubs and has long been of strategic importance dating to 58 BC when it was first mentioned in the writings of Julius Caesar’s Commentari de Bello Gallico. Its name has Celtic origins and today it has been called “the first green city of France” and is lauded as a “Town of Art and of History.” I would only add AND delicious food to this illustrious title. Green spaces and sculptural art made from fine materials to found objects meld the modern with the past within the inner city. Historic architecture adorns the lively district and at its heart presides its crowning glory the Citadel of Besançon which is a recognized UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Citadel and its fortifications occupy a commanding position on the Mont Saint Ètienne and at its feet the emerald Doubs River meanders in a horseshoe course through the forested valley below. The fortress historically has served an important military function for the area and deservedly is Besançon’s top tourist destination. We wiled away many hours exploring the 11 hectares site whose paths wind through natural landscape and tended gardens making for a pleasureable walk up to its walls. A moat surrounds the citadel and baboons frolic and groom themselves in the enclosed area. The compound also holds a natural history museum and zoo the La Citadell de Besançon that boasts a collection of 400 animals from 70 species in and around the stronghold’s walls. There are also two other museums of note on the grounds. One is the Museum of the Comte Franche region that focuses on the Citadel and its architectural history and has a captivating multimedia presentation that brings the past to life. The second is the Musee de la Resistance et de la Desportation whose exhibitions relay the heroic yet sobering regional history of the French Resistance during WWII and is a must see for WWII history buffs.
http://www.citadelle.com/en/home.html
As the afternoon waned we strolled down the Mont Saint Ètienne to the iconic Porte Noire triumphal arch that leads to the entrance of the Cathedral of Saint John of Besançon. The 11th century Romanesque church exudes a massive quality but once inside the elegant arches and soaring ceilings blend together creating a harmonious whole. As we admired the interior space the afternoon sun lit the stained glass windows bathing the nave with a glowing brillance. It was illuminating.
Passing time in the pious place we sauntered onto the impressive Astronomical Clock of the Besançon Cathedral. Intricate pendulums, weights, and a plethora of moving parts that record not only time but dates, leap years, moon and tide cycles. It even records an event that happens once every 250 years! It has been described as “one of the most complicated horological devices in the world.” The craftsmanship of this stellar time piece stands as a testament to Besançon’s past reputation as the French clockmaking and watch capital. It counters the adage “Clock watchers never seem to be having a good time” because this converted clock watcher sure did.
http://www.horloge-astronomique-besancon.fr/en/
Time to talk about food (one of my favorite subjects). You know a restaurant is good is when you visit it two nights in a row. And we did just that at the Le Poker d’As where we celebrated our anniversary and reveled in its classic French menu. The inviting place is family run and situated away from the main tourist eateries and during our visits we seemed to be the only non locals in the place. The first night we enjoyed the aspargus soup and goose pate for starters followed by curry chicken and veal and ended our meal with a variation of desserts artfully decorated with an anniversary greeting. The second night we came back for the Coq au vin and ended with the creamiest of creme broulée. Both nights we paired our dishes with champagne and wines from Burgundy. Exceptional food and wine is what brought us to Besançon and its charm and culture will certainly beckon us again and again.
https://www.lesmeilleursrestos.fr/accueil/56-le-poker-d-as-Besançon.html