Author Archives: wpadmin

Strolling and Cruising through Venice, Italy, 5-2014

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By Vaporetto through the Canale Grande.

Franz and I had not been to Venice in a few years and felt we were long overdue for a short trip. So we decided to take a jaunt during the week in late May when the weather was warm and it wasn’t high season yet. We chose well. The weather cooperated and we had clear skies as we made our way via the Arlberg tunnel to Innsbruck and then over the Brenner Pass through the majestic peaks of the Dolomiti mountains of South Tyrol. This scenic route winds through towering mountains with cascading waterfalls flowing down dark rock faces on either side of the road. There was very little snow left except on the very high peaks and the river was running fast with white rapids. The cows were already grazing in the lower elevations and the meadows were vibrant with color. We descended into the Italian lowlands and drove through the numerous vineyards and orchards as we made our way through the rather unremarkable cities that line the highways into Venice. The weather was slightly overcast and we could feel the humidity as we neared the coast.

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This was the first time we had booked a room through AirBnB and we were a bit disappointed. We’ve had a few friends who had recommend the service and spoke very highly of their successful bookings. But for us unfortunately the accommodations were at best adequate. It may be that this being Italy the standard is sometimes at a lower level than what we are used to in the Germanic speaking countries. But suffice it to say we would not recommend the place although the location was convenient. We chose for the first time not to stay on the island but instead stayed nearby in the mainland city of Mestre. But the neighborhood was nice. And we did find around the corner a great bar with an outdoor garden area to enjoy our evening Aperol Spritz garnished with orange slices and served with prosciutto on toasted bread and succulent green olives. A perfect appetizer for a slightly humid climate. In addition we found a great restaurant nearby called La Nuova Favorita. The restaurant served up steaks, seafood, pasta, and pizza. We ate there for two nights and for our first meal we had a great fried seafood platter with prawns, calamari, and sardines served with fried polenta. The second dinner we had was a to die for Pasta con vongole (clams) and they were so generous with the clams and olive oil. I LOVE this dish! We drank a simple Prosecco from the Veneto region that had a slight spritz to it and it was quite refreshing and paired well with seafood.

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Franz has been to “the most serene Republic of Venice” eight times before and this was my third time and we have enjoyed every bit of our earlier stays and have visited many of the well known touristy sights. So now we simply reveled in strolling the narrow walkways and viewing the beautiful nooks and crannies that this lovely city has to offer the curious admirer. It was wonderful to enjoy the sights, sounds, residents, and visitors of this most unique of watery cities. After meandering down the canal lined thoroughfares window shopping and delighting in the carnevale mask shops, Murano glass displays, burnished leather goods, and artistic pasta shops we indulged in the required gelato ice cream.

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After whetting our appetite we stopped for lunch in a small restaurant where we indulged our palate in some fine pasta and tuna salads. After we were satiated we sauntered on to visit the landmark St. Mark’s Square with the crowning glories of the Doge’s Palace and St Mark’s Basilica. The Doge’s Palace is so breathtaking with its Venetian Gothic styled arches and pillars lining its beautifully decorated facade. And St. Marks Basilica never fails to impress with its intricate gold ground mosaics and its opulent mixture of Italo-Byzantine architecture. After admiring the celebrated World Heritage Site we boarded a boat and took a tour around the small islands that lie in the lagoons of the Adriatic Sea. The ride offered our feet a respite from the hard stone streets of this majestic city.

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We ended our whirlwind tour with a cruise down the magnificent Canale Grande paying homage to the master architects of the Venetian past. We then headed on back to the mainland in anticipation of our evening meal and contemplating what wines we would drink.

 

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High above Lake Constance in Eichenberg, Austria, 5-2014

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This morning we awoke to such a lovely spring day and it was quite warm for mid May. We decided to venture out on our local mountain the Pfänder and to explore a few well worn trails above our house beginning at the small village of Eichenberg. But most importantly it was around noon mealtime so naturally we had to begin our walk with lunch at one of the best local butchers around these parts called the Fesslerhof. If you are a meat eater, as we are, the Austrian butcher experience is not to be missed. The Fesslerhof butchers only local animals from our region that have been raised on the grasses of the area and that is full of all the necessary and good nutrition to raise healthy and tasty animals to sell at their high quality Metzgerei. We all had wonderful choices from the menu such as sausages, Leberkäse (formed meat loaf of beef, pork, bacon and onions) and a wurst salad which is sliced bologna with pickles, onions, local cheese, topped with a vinegar dressing. We washed it down with a slightly fermented cider called Most and Franz with a refreshing Radler which is a thirst quenching beer and lemonade mixture. What way to begin a walk in the local neighborhood!

Eichenberg has a lovely small church called Heiliger Bernhard (St. Bernard’s) that is situated in the center of the village overlooking the lake and situated amongst a few very good restaurants that serve wonderful cuisine from the region. One notable restaurant is the four star Schönblick (beautiful view) that we frequent on special occasions especially when we have out of town guests because the view of the entire Bodensee region and the lake does not get any better than from the patio. The menu and wine list is wonderful as well. I highly recommend it and don’t forget to eat their specialty dessert platter that tastes as good as it looks.

There are many walks that begin from Eichenberg. The walks are quite easy and accessible and the trails are clearly marked and well maintained. They take the leisurely stroller through fields of flowers and cow pastures, rustic barns, and traditional Bregenz farm houses with window boxes lined with cascading geraniums. And small streams flow down the mountain as they make their way to empty into the Bodensee waiting below. Trees, birds, bees, blowing wind, chicken, crickets, mooing cows and bells are the sights and sounds that leave a relaxing impression on the lucky hiker. Now that’s my way to spend a leisurely afternoon high above Lake Constance.
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Water Games in the Rappenlochschlucht, Austria 5-14

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We had one of my sisters from the States visiting this week. This is her third time visiting us and we had tried to get to a beautiful gorge outside the nearby town of Dornbirn called the Rappenlochschlucht (Black stallion hole gorge). The gorge is one of the the largest in central Europe and is fed by the Dornbirner Ach (river). On her first visit it was closed due to the lingering winter conditions, and the second time it was closed due to an enormous rockslide that happens once a millennium. And what a rockslide it was! It was incredible to have seen the damage that a falling off of a large hunk of the rock slope created within the ravine. Luckily it happened when the gorge was closed and no one was injured. But nevertheless we were finally able to visit the lovely natural wonder. The pathways have been rebuilt at great cost and effort and the results are good. Unfortunately for one who has visited this site before the rockslide it’s a bit disappointing because the path has been diverted to run high up above the gorge and not down at the water level as it had been earlier. The gorge is at its best when one can view the towering rocks and waterfalls from the gorge floor. But there are still areas that one can view the the gorge at the base and can admire the enormity and marvel at the power of running water.

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The force of the flowing water has been harnessed for hydroelectricity and its hundred year old power turbines are still in use today. The energy generated was originally used to power a well known textile plant that was located on the lower elevations of the gorge. In earlier times the textile industry was a great source of wealth within the region. And this is demonstrated by the Rolls Royce Museum and the Crib Museum that are located near the park entrance that earlier had belonged to the wealthy Hämmerle textile dynasty and is a testament to the money created from the water and textile combination. Today the collections are open to the public and are worth a peek. The energy generated in the present time is fed into the power grid of the state of Vorarlberg.

It was a good timing for a visit because it had been raining the past week and there was plenty of flowing H2O and it was especially dramatic. The gorge is all about water and more water. What’s really nice about this site is just how accessible it is. This proved to be helpful due to a ski injury my sister had suffered this past winter and her knee was still recovering but the path was very doable for her. The Rappenlochschlucht is a “show gorge” and has nicely laid out and clearly marked pathways with the occasional bench to rest or simply enjoy the view and it has two small kiosks where you can sit and have a coffee or a small snack. Also at the entrance of the gorge is a small restaurant with a beautiful view of cascading water that serves up good local fare. A visit to the natural beauty of the Rappenlochschulcht is a wonderful way to while away the afternoon.

 

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Pilgrimage to Bildstein, Austria, 5-2014

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Today is Mother’s Day and this morning Franz & I set off for a short morning walk and a breath of refreshing air. And fresh it was. Blustery fresh to the point of cold. The wind was blowing across Lake Constance as we drove a short ways to the next small mountain, actually a hill around these parts, called Bildstein (picture stone) in the nearby village of Wolfurt. Bildstein (659m) sits on a small hilltop with a commanding view of the Rhine Valley. Its known for its lovely twin towered Baroque Church that crowns the perch and is a well known Marian pilgrimage site.

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The story goes back that in the early 1600’s at the height of the plague that was sweeping across the area a local farmer in the midst of hardship prayed to the Virgin Mary that his family be spared the black death and that in return he swore to build a church in her honor. Twenty five years passed and a church had not yet been erected. So the Virgin Mary appeared to the farmers two young sons at the site where a small chapel sits today and spoke to the brothers beckoning them to remember a promise once made. So the brothers astonished by what had transpired returned home and their father upon hearing the story understood that he had not yet fulfilled his earlier promise. He soon began the building of the Bildstein church that still stands today in honor of the Virgin Mary and that long ago made promise. I think it’s such a lovely story and and no church has anything over this house of worship that occupies such a picturesque spot to gaze upon the beauty of nature.
The small village of Bildstein dates back to 1379 and the old houses that surround the churchyard are charming. They are styled with Bregenzerwald wooden shingles and brightly painted shutters complete with lovingly tended gardens. Two gardens I found especially charming and reflected the unique character of their owners. One of them is a gnome garden. The yard is filled with gnomes of every shape, color, and size. And the owner has made several different settings and themes for the varied grouping that adorn the grounds.

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But my favorite is the brown skinned (like me!) gnome. A small statement on diversity.

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My second favorite is another cute garden that is filled with kitchen implements of all kinds. Old pots and pans, buckets, metal cans, rusted farming machinery parts, colored glass bottles, dogs, cats, an aviary, and all set against the backdrop of an old beautiful wooden farmhouse. It’s certainly one of a kind.

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From the small village are a series of easy hiking trails that surround the area and one can explore the high moor area called the “Farnacher Moos”. There are also several small restaurants that serve up local fare where one can soak up the small village vibes.

 

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A Spring Stroll in the Bregenzerwald, Austria, 5-14

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The sun was shining brightly with some high clouds floating over the Pfänder and we woke to a lovely spring morning to the sounds of birds singing and the cows mooing softly in the background. Franz and I had a quick cup of coffee and hopped in the car and made our way out to the Bregenzerwald for a leisurely stroll along the Bregenzer Ache near Langenegg. The prolific dandelions, blue cornflowers, violet thistles, and yellow wild flowers filled the blooming meadows as we drove pass the idyllic wooden houses and carefully tended farm gardens. It was a quiet Sunday morning as we admired the pristine local landscape. The brown eyed cows were grazing slowly in the fields feasting on the bountiful grasses and new flowers that will find its way into the wonderful flavors of the sharp cheeses that this region is world famous for. The sparkling water of the river beckoned us with its lovely symphony as it made its way along the rocks and sands that line the small canyon. This path was originally occupied by the Bregenzerwaldbahn, a small railroad that connected the farming regions with the major cities of Lake Constance, but now it has been converted to a walking and biking path. In the past few years local artists have constructed out of wood pieces of artwork that adorn the trail and fit beautifully into the natural terrain that is overflowing with natural herbs and berries such as oregano, Bärlauch, blue berries, and wild raspberries. During the warmer months this is an ideal place to get away from the busy Bodensee and find a quiet and cool place to park yourself for the afternoon to read a book or as many families do grill a few sausages and swim in the refreshing pools along the river.

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After completing our relaxing walk and enjoying the fresh spring air it was time for lunch. One of my favorite times of day. In the small nearby village of Langenegg we found a gem of a restaurant. The name is Hotel Krone. It is a four star hotel and has a beautiful ambience. The dining room is wonderfully decorated in a typical Bregenzerwald style and the food was excellent. We enjoyed a succulent spring meal. Franz began with a Brätspätzle/veal dumpling soup and his main course was a young goat with a delicious sauce, polenta cheese, and steamed buttery lauch/leek. I had freshly steamed white asparagus that is a speciality of this time of year and steamed new potatoes. To top off this vegetarian delight was a creamy hollandaise sauce made from the local cheese – super yummy! And for dessert we shared a fried dough dumpling rolled in bread crumbs and sugar and filled with vanilla ice cream with a side of strawberry sauce. It was a throughly enjoyable meal in a beautiful setting with impeccable service given by our charming waitress. Life doesn’t get any better. What a way to end our Sunday morning stroll!

Krone Langenegg

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Sailing on Lake Constance, Austria, 9-13

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 Lake Constance is as close to my heart as the sea is to the fisherman whose livelihood depends on it. I grew up a few hundred meters from its shores, and it seems like I lived in the water during the summer months during my childhood. The lake is shared by Austria, Germany, and Switzerland, and the Rhine has its first river delta, a bird sanctuary, on the Austrian shoreline. Besides its natural beauty the lake is home to all kinds of water sports. Fortunately the amount of power boats is strictly limited so that sailing enthusiasts make up the majority of boaters.

In Bregenz it is possible to have a small sailboat without being a member of a yacht club, the city owns a meadow on the lake, and anybody can apply for a spot there. I received mine after waiting for a year, and then looked for a sailboat that would suit my needs. I found it in an older but sturdy Laser II that can be sailed singlehandedly or with two people, if there’s enough wind. With a sailing area of under 12 square meters it keeps below the legal requirement for having a sailing license. So now I can take my bicycle and ride down to the boat for an enjoyable cruise on my favorite lake. Come with me!

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Spring Skiing in Lech, Austria, 4-2014

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Lech am Arlberg is arguably the most prestigious ski resort in the Alps. On one hand it is the Eldorado of deep powder snow, on the other a quiet winter Mecca where the royals and the super rich mingle undisturbed by paparazzi. To me it is a magical place where in the past I’ve rented an old hut without hot water and showers with twenty-five of my best friends every year, where I taught skiing as a student during holidays and semester breaks that enabled me to ski for 3 months every winter and I got paid doing it, where I’ve had countless deep powder free riding memories, where I came to every Christmas with my family when we lived in California, where I experienced the most amazing hospitality I’ve ever had on this planet, where I’ve got to know every single hotel owner in the many different places we stayed at, and where I still take friends from around the world because it is so special.

The ski area is connected with the neighboring towns of Warth and Zürs. A short ski bus ride away is the Alpe Rauz, from there a chairlift takes skiers into the area of St. Anton am Arlberg, which is in the neighboring state of Tyrol. A total of 94 cable cars and ski lifts create 340 km of groomed pistes and 200 km of deep powder runs. Modern skiing began here in the early 1900s with Hannes Schneider teaching his Arlberg technique.

IMG_4037The White Ring is the longest ski race in the world according to the Guinness Book of World Records. The race starts in Lech on top of the Rüfikopf and follows the ski run down to Zürs, the participants then take the lift up to the beginning of the Madloch, the infamous 5 km ski run down to Zug. A chair lift takes the entrants up the Kriegerhorn and the race course finishes back in Lech at the bottom of the Schlegelkopf.

 

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Winter Paradise Bregenz, Austria, 12-2012

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Bregenz is the capital of the most western Austrian state of Vorarlberg. It lies on the eastern shore of Lake Constance, a lake shared also by Germany and Switzerland. The lake functions as a heater in the winter, so often there is little snow in Bregenz during that season. Sometimes, however, Bregenz is inundated with lots of “white gold”, and then the local mountain, the Pfänder (1064 m)  is dressed up in an amazing white outfit and becomes a playground for the local people, skiing, ski touring, sledding, snow shoeing and hiking being the sports of choice.

_DSC5435There is a 3.5 km ski run down the mountain, the “Schlauch” (hose in English), where a downhill race was run for many years. As a kid my dream was to ski the Schlauch in “Schuss” position, with my poles tucked in for speed. Unfortunately I was not a very good skier back then, but when I found myself on top of the run one sunny morning – after returning to Bregenz decades later – I decided it was now or never.

Pfänder Snow

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Downhill Skiing in St. Moritz, Switzerland, 3-2014

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The Berghaus Diavolezza is a mountain hotel at 3000 m, an outpost of the St. Moritz ski area. It offers both simple and luxurious accommodations, and a breathtaking view of the Piz Palü, a 3901 m high mountain, which is often the destination of ski touring guests at the hotel. The main town of St. Moritz is reachable by the famous “Rhätische Bahn“, which has UNESCO World Heritage status for the track between Thusis and Tirano, with one stop located at the bottom of the Diavolezza cable car. St. Moritz is one of the most glamorous ski resorts in the Alps, with the Corvatsch mountain (3303 m) being the highest peak reachable by cable car in the area. A spectacular 10km glacier run guides the adventurous skier from the top of the Diavolezza to Morteratsch, where the train takes you either down to St. Moritz or up the valley towards the Bernina pass. The area is located on the Southern side of the Alps and this year it received enormous amounts of snow. Sahara sand was blown across the Mediterranean by strong winds and created colorful patches on slopes with southern exposure. A beautiful train ride back to Chur completed our four day stay at the top of the world.

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Ski Touring in the Silvretta, Austria, 2-2013

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Bielerhöhe (2037m) is a mountain pass that connects the Austrian states of Vorarlberg and Tyrol near the Swiss border. It is located at the end of the Montafon valley, which was one of Hemingway’s favorite hangouts. It plays a big role in hydroelectric energy production, there are several dammed up lakes in the vicinity, all produce electricity. The highest peak of Vorarlberg, the Piz Buin (3312m), is very close and a favorite destination for mountain climbers. In the summer a winding road leads up to the pass but in the winter it is only reachable by cable car and shuttle bus. It is a very “James Bond like” experience to be shuttled through narrow tunnels and come out to a breathtaking mountain scenery in a picturesque Alpine setting. Two hotels at the pass provide the means for many to enjoy one of Vorarlberg’s great pastimes, ski touring.

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